That sounds like the oil drain hose. They clip over the edge of the plastic blower shroud. Don't forget the new oil :)

Turned out be to really simple (the whole project). She runs like a champ now.

If you have not already , purchase the Best Grade of Synthetic Oil you can afford !

I'd recommend Shell Rotella 5W-40

Possibly foam up and not lubricate. At least that is why 40 weight oils were not recommended in the past. That is unless you are a humongo Vangard that I know of. 30 weight is a better way to go. Synthetic 30 multi grade is good too.

Only incident of foaming that I have seen , was with a Toro Snowblower with conventional Dino oil usage for 5 yrs then owner used cheaper grade synthetic oil and experience some foaming . Changed out the cheaper syn oil and replaced with Amsoil and no problems since , believe 5-30 Syn was the recommended oil from Blower Manfacturer. I use 5-30 Max-life 60-40 Blend Syn / Dino In my Toro Blower. In Southern climates 40 weight should not pose a problem , but rather a benefit Tom . I actually use the recommended 20-50 Syn in all my Air Cooled Gen Sets here in the Great White North . Have used Rotella T Syn 5-40 in both my Ford 350 Navistar Diesel and current Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel , a True Million Mile Performance Oil. P.S. Mark , what Manufacturer of Engine did you install ?

Ewalk, I wouldn't say that you personally have done anything detrimental to your engines by using a 40 weight. The topic did come up in service schools years back and if my recollection is correct, the 10W40 could whip air into mix much like an engine that had too much oil in it. That goes back a while though. Everyone has a favorite oil. Like the old timers that run 20W50 in their OP twins. To each their own. My suggestion to use the 30 weight is based on the fact that Briggs will not endorse using it in a 19 HP anything. If that is what the OP has, he should use the recommended oil.

Tom , yes that is what I question of Mark also . Even if it was a new crate engine or recycled low Hr Unit ? As far as manufacturers I take their recommendations with grain of salt and some common sense. Explain the difference with a air cooled lawn tractor 19 HP Engine Oil requirement and air cooled generator set 14 HP Engine Oil requirement . I would suggest that both fall under extreme service oil requirements . I understand your position as to warranty , very prudent position. Personally I would use 5-30 Rotella T because of Area Temp Ranges in Ontario . I remember as do you when all small engine units were prescribed Sae 30 only , that prescription to day in Texas or Nevada could be a problem. . Even Harley Davidson has finally given up on their conventional Dino 60 weight oil doctrine and went public with Full Synthetic 20-50 . I fully respect your experience within these small engine units . Please give it some more thought and enlighten me further , probably should have started another thread.. sorry but Thanks Bro !

Nothing further from me Ewalk. Simply put, the engineers tell us what oil works for the engines they designed and caution against the 40. Oil is a big thing. I personally don't go for the the thicker oil than recommended for higher temp theory on anything that I own of value. If it makes you feel better, my other half tells me to put 20W50 in her air cooled bus because that's what the other lady put in it. Far be it from me to rock that boat... :)

Well Mark has not gotten back to us as to Origin of Replacement Engine , so should it be a Briggs I will defer to your wisdom and recommend Rotella T 5-30 even in Southern States . If Kohler then I'am with your better half with 20W50 lol P.S. Don't get me started on Engineers , had to spoon feed them back in the day within Basic Steam Dynamic's Protocols !

I use Shell T6 5W-40 in a NOS 1997 B&S 12.5 286707 that is on my Allis Chalmers 611LTD. I've been running the 5W-40 since the engine rolled over 10 hours and 2 changes with HD30 (I put an hourmeter on prior to starting the new engine) it currently has 73 hours on it. I change oil every 50 hours and do have to top it off around the 25 hour mark, especially when working the engine hard on a hot day. It also stays fairly clean and golden color even at 50 hours. I'd definitely recommend it for your new engine.

Thanks for the follow up ! I agree with the T-6 , very well proven oil . I wish I had hr meters on my Gen Sets , must have 500 to 8000 hrs and only the little Honda 800 Watt back up has ever used (consumed) any oil . I would haz'd since it ran Dino 30 Sae. for its 1st 5 yrs. Ring wear , so that's when I went 5-40 Rotella T . That's 15 yrs ago and it still runs for it's living , at fish camp (spring & summer) for aux lighting usage . Both my Honda 5000 Watt and Yamaha 3500 Watt have ran Rotella 20-50 since after Break in . The 800 still uses a little oil however nothing visable , half of what it consumed on the Dino 30 weight. Your in Wisconsin , if memory serves me , so similar Ambient Temp Range. We use the larger gen sets at Moose Camp for Deep Freeze's and lighting etc (colder weather) and they start very easily with the Synthetic oils . Eventually I will tear down the 800 for fresh rings and run 5-40 T after initial run in on Dino 30 Sae . The only other oil I would ever consider would be Amsoil , but I get the Rotella for almost cost by the 5 Gal. Jug via a local jobber . I have over 1 million on the Old Ford Diesel and 60,000 on the New Ram Cummins and Rotella T from day one . Any how fun discussions , have a good one Youngin !

Look at the manual. Look up what oil it recommends. Use that. If it doesn't call for a synthetic don't waste your money. If anyone wants to claim this or that brand of oil is better ask them for data. Don't take anecdotal evidence of anything seriously, Ever, about anything. Testimonials are worthless and not considered evidence in the scientific community that brought you the modern world.

I notice Mark Gaulke never said what that hose was. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a dipstick under it.

Carboncrank : No Mark unfortunately , has not got back to us for either the Hose or Engine Manufacturer of the Replacement Engine.The hose as advised by Tomplum is most likely oil fill / drain hose or perhaps the crankcase breather hose which has been rerouted from the air breather canister & capped off via an external breather (prevent oil carry over to air filter) rather sketchy description from Mark on that. As for my recommendation of the Best Premium Grade Sythetic oil that he could afford, I assure this anything than ancedotal , but rather from real life experience as a former Diesel Mechanic . Anyone who does not realize the obvious advantages of Premium Grade Synthetic Multi Grade oil , Better Wear Protection , Viscosity Maintenance , Low Temperature Fluidity and last but not least Deposit Control (remember the glowing ember issues on the Honda) should Educate themselves of the upside. If your not aware , all current Small Air Cooled Engine Manufacturers currently Recommend Synthetic Multi Grade Oil for their units over Dino Mineral Oils , for obvious reasons , IT'S BETTER ! The only point of contention within oil recommendations in this Thread was within Grade 30 vs 40 and Potential for foaming within a Splash Lubricated Briggs Engine Design . Since Rotella T6 has antifoaming additives as do most Premium Grade Syn Oils , is why I concurred with Yt-125's recommendation for 5-40 for Southern Climate Usage . However Tomplum expressed reservations which I respect , due to his extensive background within small engines. It was never a based on Economic Waste but rather an Investment in a Engine of Considerable Value. P.S. Do not recognize your username , most of us have been around here for a decade with varing experience within these units . You seem a Man of Convection , what background do you have within this discussion . Do not recognize your username if you are not rebadged , Welcome aboard Bro !