Sorry, Adam, I missed this! I notice that you're planning on seeding the first week of September, so I moved things around appropriately. It also means that applications this fall tend to be a bit gentler than average, although with your soil you probably won't notice that since we have to be gentle anyway.

Sample Depth 3": 4" is the standard, but this is not a problem. I'll adjust the numbers that need to be adjusted.

ME 4.1: Sand, as you already noted in your thread. This soil will drift fast, won't hold a lot of resources, and should probably be re-tested every two years once stabilized. If not every year, actually.

pH 5.9: A little low, although nothing severe. I'll tap this under calcium, magnesium, and potassium as sandy soils don't (as mentioned) hold a lot in terms of resources and tend to benefit from being balanced at a higher pH to provide as much in the way of Ca, Mg, and K as possible for as long as possible. Target here is probably in the 6.7-6.8 range.

OM 1.9%: Low, but that's normal for a blank field, new construction, and sandy soil. Always mulch mow, mow whatever leaves you get off your new trees, snitch leaves that others put out at the curb, and consider feeding organically once the soil is stable. In your case, I'll take whatever I can get, down to tossing your used coffee grounds on the soil every morning.

Sulfur 4: Low, but that's typical for a new soil with low OM. It's a secondary reason why I've recommended a few sulfates below where I might otherwise be inclined to ignore the situation.

Phosphorus 44: Low. Your target will be around 200 on this test. We use starter fertilizer to raise this, and just get the cheapest. They all work the same. Recommendations below.

Calcium 62%: Not low, and ignoring this wouldn't be a problem...but because of your low OM I'm recommending boosting it closer to 70%. We use Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime to do this as other limes require more mass per given area, work too slowly, or add elements I'd rather add in another way. Recommendations below.

Magnesium 9.5%: Saturation levels are a touch low, but there's definitely a slight shortage showing. Since tight soil isn't ever going to be an issue here, I'd recommend boosting this slightly--and it also adds a little in the way of sulfates, and you could use the sulfur. We use Epsom salt to raise this, available at your local grocery store or drug store. Hand-held spreaders can be purchased at most big box stores to apply small amounts of materials. Recommendations below.

Potassium 3.6%: OK by saturation, but there's, again, a soil shortage showing--which will get worse as Ca and Mg levels come up to normal (I'm pretty much trying to fill most of the available spots in your soil, and a little extra K isn't a bad idea). We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to fix this, which you can get from some garden or landscape stores, or they'll order it for you. Get the granular, it's far easier to work with than the powder.

Minor Elements: I've discussed copper, boron, and iron below.

Copper 0.9: A tad low, but nothing severe, and not worth correcting at this time. Increasing organic matter levels will also tend to slightly raise copper levels, which should fix the problem as the shortage is, indeed, just a tad.

Iron 94: What with setting your pH a little high, and given that the level is a little low to begin with, you may notice that lawn color isn't optimal--or that you simply want it to be greener. Whenever you like, please feel free to use Milorganite to very slowly raise the iron levels over time and nudge along the organic matter levels.

Boron 0.21: Quite low, but not quite deficient. It's going to leach out fast in a sandy soil, so I'd like to boost this. While not the most important element, I'll always work to move your lawn into the most optimal range on everything. Me? I'd fix this. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Since it's not exactly critical, I put this off until next year around Labor Day when the lawn won't mind (and, in fact, will benefit from) the heavier combined feeding.

Recommendations:

Planting Time: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate.

Planting Time Plus One Month: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate.

October 15 (about 2 weeks post the second starter app): (Optional but recommended) Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime.

April 15, 2017: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime.

May 1, 2017: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of Epsom salt.

May 15, 2017: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate.

May 25, 2017: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate.

Labor Day 2017: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet.

October 1, 2017: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate.

thank you very much for taking the time to do this !! i will get my starter fertilizer ready!! which brand do you recommend ? im on a budget

The cheapest, of course! They're all targeted to deliver about the same amount of P. Usually Lesco is competitive for cheapest, but a store brand might work out more economically.

thank you again sir , very much apprecaited. have a great night

Morpheuspa,

May I ask why you chose to give priority to Ca and Mg over K to the sites? Not really a point of disagreement, just interested in your rational. Could Adam use a high K starter fertilizer if he can find one? Nice, very nice, read and analysis.

Adam,

You just received a test read worth $50+. In my opinion nothing morpheuspa advised is "optional" if you want to give the turf the greatest chance of success.