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donnie_newell

Austin TX - zone 8b - overseed

10 years ago

So I've been following morph's soil treatment plan religiously for about a year now. It looks a million times better! Unfortunately, all the bare patches have filed in with weeds. The lawn is now about 50 percent bermuda, 30 percent crabgrass, 10 percent weeds, and 10 percent armadillo holes ;-) I am trying to decide how best to fix this.

Since this is a rental, I'm not planning any major Reno... I don't think so, at least... I'm thinking scalp and bag, overseeed with cheap bermuda, Tenacity, roll and water twice a day for a month. I'll lay another app of dimension down after germination (it's been about 6 months since the last one) .

Should I bother trying to kill all the crabgrass? Pulling will be a huge pain since there is so much.

Thanks!

Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago

    I was just thinking the temps are seemingly cooler in the evenings already. Bermuda seed works best when the soil is hot from a July week of full sun. I'm with hawksster in thinking you're at the end of the window. You might get some germination, but not like you're expecting.

    Bermuda should have filled in everywhere it will fill by this time of year. Are these thin spots in the shade perhaps? Do you have any pictures (taken on a cloudy day with no flash??)?

    How were you watering it last April? Daily? What about the rest of the summer?

    What kind of weeds? If they are broadleaf weeds then spot spraying with Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer will take care of it.

  • 10 years ago

    Well that sucks. The main reason I've been taking such care of the soil was so I could have it ready to go for seeding. I guess I figured because it was still above 90 everyday that I was fine before vacation 3 weeks ago. I've been doing everything by the book that you always post. Water once a week deeply. Mow twice a week on the lowest setting.

    I've used 2 bottles of weed b gon in the last year(one southern and one oxalis) and 1 bottle of image.

    Unfortunately, I was mulch mowing my tree leaves as well. It turns out black walnut leaves have a natural herbicide in them, so I think that is partly responsible for the remaining bare patches, as well as shade like you pointed out.

    I'll take some pictures and post those.

  • 10 years ago

    Are you suggesting you have less bermuda now because of the walnut leaves? I would say the shade would be more of a problem than the leaves. Bermuda must have 6 hours a day of direct sunlight to thrive. Any grass hiding behind a fence, wall, tree, or shrub will suffer.

    Walnut? Who has a walnut tree in Austin? Are you sure it isn't a pecan? Either one is a pain in the butt all year long. Something is always falling out of those things.

  • 10 years ago

    Weed B Gon CCO should not be used on bermuda. Triclopyr can cause problems in your lawn for upwards of a year. WBG Southern is just a diluted version of the regular WBG. You can use either on bermuda but that 2,4-D will cause some yellowing. I'm now a believer about the evils of 2,4-D after recent personal experiences.

    You should could do well to stick with the 2 combo that I constantly read about and am switching to myself: Celsius + Sulfosulfuron. Celsius is your general grass/broadleaf herbicide that we can use in hot weather. Sulfo kills sedges, crabgrass, and other stuff. Alternatively Quinclorac kills crabgrass, but can get more bang for your buck with Sulfo.

  • 10 years ago

    @hawksster So, I was wrong when I said I used Oxalis WBG. What happened was that I used southern wbg first, and then used the regular wbg once I was dissapointed with the southern wbg results. I think I will finally pick up some Celsius, I've been avoiding herbicide since march because i was planning on laying down seed.

    @dchall_san_antonio I'm not saying I have less bermuda than before. My lawn was the color of straw, hard as a rock with deep cracks, and filled with grassburrs, ant beds, and you-name-it weeds before I started reading this forum. Now it's all green, and most of the bare patches filled in with either bermuda or crabgrass. The back of the yard is where I have 3 black walnut trees and a crepe myrtle and there is a decent amount of shade from the fence, the trees, and the neighbors shed. I speculate about the leaves hurting the grass because the grass is much thinner back there, even in areas where there is 8 hours of hot texas sun every day.

    And btw, North Austin is filled with Walnut trees. I live next to Walnut Creek park. You better watch out if I'm mowing under one of those trees, it's like a pitching machine with golf balls back there!

  • 10 years ago

    That has to be dulling your mower blade pretty bad...

  • 10 years ago

    Wow! Glad this forum has been helping you. Grass burrs should go
    away in about a season once you begin to water, mow, and fertilize.
    They are easily overtaken by anything else that grows. Same with most
    ant beds - or at least you don't see them once the grass is growing over
    the bare spots.

    Does the bermuda seem to have stopped spreading, or are you just impatient with the progress?

    Crabgrass is a summer
    annual plant. The seeds seem to be everywhere, but they will only
    germinate when they have 1) full sun, and 2) frequent spring moisture.
    So if you can create a relatively dense turf "canopy", then the
    crabgrass will not get started. Also if you can restrain Mother Nature
    from providing a week's worth of rainfall in April, you can avoid or
    diminish the crabgrass. This is why I am so gung ho on watering
    properly - especially in the early spring. Too many people jump right
    into watering every week or even every day in the spring. Monthly
    watering is all it needs, and that allows the soil surface to dry out
    and not go off germinating weed seeds.
    I lived in Pecan
    Valley in San Antonio for awhile. I get your point. My daughter just
    moved in north of you in Wells Branch. Does that mean I should see
    wells there? or branches?

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