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kitasei

best times for transplanting

10 years ago

I'm trying to up my success in transplanting shrubs. They each seem to have different requirements for success. Can you give me any broad rules, i.e., which ones to move early in enough in fall to grow roots, which to move in late fall or early spring while dormant, which to move in spring after breaking dormancy? When is it better to move something if stressed in its current site? I have hydrangeas (big leaf blues and some good size peegee suckers), sprireas (large cascading white and smaller pink), lilacs (regular and Miss Kim), small yellow arbs, boxwood.. I won't ask about roses because I have learned the hard way to wait until breaking dormancy in spring..Most of these are slated for moving because they are now in full shade. Thank you for organizing my fall (as in autumn, that is:)...

Comments (4)

  • 10 years ago

    It may depend on where you are. I like moving just about anything in the fall based on experience. Things moved in the fall have always survived while spring plantings and moved items vary more as to survival. Our spring is quite short, often going from snow on the ground to temperatures in the 80's in just a few short weeks, so the soil is still cold while the air is quite warm. Plants don't like this nearly as much as having shorter, cooler days and warm soil. So I plant and transplant just about everything in the fall (including evergreens which normally are not recommended to be transplanted in autumn), mulch well for moisture and temperature control, and pay attention to water needs right up to hard freeze. I've found consistently that things settle in without any sign of distress.

    However, I am a couple of zones colder than you, with most winters having considerable snow and at times ground that freezes solidly to about a foot if it's really cold before the snow arrives. So you may find different results.

    kitasei thanked NHBabs z4b-5a NH
  • 10 years ago

    the trick here... is to do it right.. rather than hurry it all up .. so since you have two transplant seasons .. just work methodically... and precisely ... and if you can get it all done in fall.. cool .. but if not.. finish in spring ...


    dig approx new hole first ... then the plant.. then move into new hole ... etc ...


    the more soil you can take ... the easier the move.. more intact roots ...


    the rest is about my ground freeze .. you can extrapolate from there ...


    the ground can potentially freeze by Thxgvng [but usually not until after xmas ... but the soil is so cold root growth has stopped] .... so i want to be done 6 to 8 weeks before ... so the roots have time to settle before complete dormancy ... so i would try to be done by mid october ... you can add a week or two ... dont forget.. just because the top is dormant.. you might have root growth until soil temps fall ...


    in spring.. ground thaw is around mid to late march .... and i like to start when that is complete .... so i can usually start around the first two weeks of april ... i would dig test holes to find out the status of the soil ...


    the heat of summer has potential starting around mid june ... AND I have frost potential until late may .....


    again.. i look to having stuff moved.. in spring.. in dormancy ... hopefully a month before first flush.. and then 6 to 8 weeks before the POTENTIAL heat of summer ... no active leaves to support during the move.. and then the 6 to 8 weeks to settle the roots before heat ...


    as zone goes up ... you can go longer in fall.. and earlier in spring.. until you get to 7 or 8.. were apparently you can do it all winter .... but watering then MIGHT be a problem ...


    for all of next year.. you are in charge of watering ... be attenticve in the heat of summer.. insert finger and water when they need it ....


    i give you my z5 info ... because though you claim z6 ... ma nature can be unforgiving ... and easily snap you into z5 .. etc ...


    after all that.. just do it ... you win.. you lose.. so be it ... lots of excersize.. and happy potential ...


    i dont see anything in your list.. that i would consider foo foo ... so just do it.. starting about mid sept .... just turn off the gizmos ... and go at it..


    ken

    kitasei thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
  • 10 years ago

    Thanks, and by the by, I was just digging up some clethra that appeared to be dead, and stopped when I realized how tenaciously the roots were holding on. Made me think that maybe the tops were dormant and the roots possibly still alive?? Clethra have been difficult for me. Seems if you can't keep them really moist, they quickly look awful. i recall how long they took to leaf out in spring too. I almost abandoned them for dead then. Maybe clethra is a swamp shrub that has no business in zone 6 gardens? Even one that's shaded and usually moist? Are there any other shrubs that could look dead but still be alive? Hydrangea, for example?

  • 10 years ago

    after 12 weeks of severe drought.. and high heat ... and warm nights... a lot of stuff looks like poop in my yard .... its natural ...


    talking about established plants ... most should be able to recover .... there is plenty of time for them to store water for next year ...


    i would not be happy if they resprouted in fall .. but what can you do ... it would be a mechanism to try to store more enrgy in the roots ...


    one thing i would not do.. is get confused.. and think fert in fall will help.. it wont .. and it might zoom them into fast vegetative growth.. that will not properly harden off in late fall ....


    but you were spot on.. realizing that the roots seem viable.. if it were dead.. so would the roots ...


    you are going to learn so much.. with this process.. by next year.. you will be answering questions ... lol..... based on experience ... the best kind of knowledge ...


    ken

    kitasei thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5