AJ,

Do you have a picture of the whole plant to see.

You can cut higher up and I would not use the wood glue beneath the surface. Use Sulfur powder if you have it and let it dry in warm place for a week or so, then plant up.

Seeing that you mention that they are < 1/2", some over. The smaller ones could be treated with a fungicide and planted.

Check out Jericson's thread "Arabicum (EC)" recently active. He has done wonderful work with trimming roots. Worth a look and he has been assisting others.

Rick

I picked the smallest/most compact one. Where I wanted to cut was 1/2" or less which if you see in the picture can be 50% of the taproot. I did not plan on the tap root going the last 2-3". My fault for assuming that. The rest are all <18" tall and about 1 year of growth. Taproots look about the same; the ones with more growth have more feeder roots.

Thanks for any help.

Southeast USA zone 8b/9a Humid and hot likely another 60 days and slowly cooling down after that.

This is 1 of 43. Made pots into "bonsai" style and I'm 2-3" too shallow. I want the wider over tall root structure. I was hoping for 2 years of growth in these pots and would like to make them work.

Mix is about as ideal as possible for this climate.

Do I have enough time to cut/heal and avoid as much, if not all, potential for rot? Am I looking at very low success rate if I attempt this now?

Those look to be strong healthy plants you've grown if they're all similar to the example you show us, what type are they please? Can we see the pots you've made as some members have made these also.....just out of interest, please? Sorry I can't personally advise whether to cut now or not as my conditions are so very different, but good luck anyway.

Gill

AJ,

I am glad that Jericson came and gave you some advice. I would think w having a good 2 months of warm weather, you could go ahead and prune.

I would think of what you desire, what Jericson has mentioned about cutting just below the Tan line of caudex would be best for your desire of style.

if temperatures in evening start to drop more than 70F, then you should bring inside and put under supplemental lighting if they have not put on new roots by this time.

Rick

The hypertufa pots as requested. Nothing fancy. I may lightly brush on stain on outside or use landscape block adhesive to add on shells/tile pieces/etc later.

For the waterproof wood glue is this fine?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-16-oz-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-1414/100522343

My plan:

1. Rinse off roots and wait till dry.

2. Cut and immediately glue. Wait till glue dries (24hrs according to label).

3. Repot and pray.

Rooting hormone? Fungicide?

The larger ones (still <18" tall) and pushing out flowers still:

AJ,

The Wood glue that many use is Elmer's Waterproof Wood Glue. I use this for when I prune.

Many are using Super Glue on cut surfaces and this is what I did with my cut caudex.

Wash off roots. Let dry. Cut off roots. Wash w water and dip in fungicide (if you have). Let dry completely. Then apply glue and allow to dry. Plant up having lots of perlite of coarse sand at level of cut surface when planted.

Rick

AJ,

I meant to ask if your Hypertufa pots have been aged for some time? They can cause burning of plant roots if they have not aged and weathered to leach out lime and cement curing.

Rick

Hypertufa has been outside in the elements for quite while now. I guess I could submerge them in water if you think that is necessary. I will likely do that just to make sure while waiting for cuts to dry.

So as long as it is waterproof and wood glue I should be fine?

Fungicide I see recommended is just sulfur dust. Dip in dry powder or a solution? Some report burning of roots I guess from direct application.

https://www.amazon.com/BONIDE-PRODUCT-141-SULFUR-FUNGICIDE/dp/B000HA95W2

I use turmeric powder on all cuts and even in rains it works.... Its antiseptic. Alternate is copper fungicide a blue colored powder...but I stopped using that and now use only turmeric

All grew the exact 8" of the cinder blocks which I didn't think they would have. Getting them out of the blocks resulted in breaks/tears of roots.

Late fertilizer application? All I have is controlled release dynamite fertilizer 10-10-10 (red bottle). Should I do anything to help roots set or close the cut better?

Watering - I planned on letting it stay in the shade for a few days then slowly introduce back into sun. Can I at least mist/foliar spray some water? These look like they need water.

Finished potting half but I have an issue.

Caudex was soft. Best described as a fresh turnip/radish/carrot when i initially did the cutting. After the cutting, it felt like the turnip/radish/carrot had set out overnight and became a little soft. Are these all now going to rot? I even did the little pocket of perlite where the cut was. Total time from initial pot, cutting, glue drying, and repotting was a little over 24 hours. The only way I see to avoid the softness would be to wash, cut, and use superglue while skipping all drying time. I did mist the leaves.

I'm contemplating just going to buy large pots vs continuing cutting the remaining 20.

AJ,

They look wonderful and you sure have a job there.

I have some underway right now (complete removal of the base) and I used Super glue. Last time I did not and I do not know whether it was not dried long enough or treatment after planting.

The most recent seemed to just sit for some time, but now they are putting on new growth. Have not lifted to peek, figured if they keep growing this is a good sign. Why bother disturbing.

This is a photo of how I did it and my friend told me that the disc is completely personal choice.

Maybe too late for your efforts, but good info.

I think that w a few small feeder roots, that they should recover and set new roots quicker.

Rick

Glue definitely dried completely for me. My issue was the caudex softening on a few. Mine did not seem to appreciate the "let it dry" phases, mostly I guess to these not being fully dormant. They seemed to be dehydrating from the lack of water not attempting to rot--hopefully.

My thoughts were to use a fan or air compressor to cut the total process down to 45 minutes or less (including the 30 min for glue to dry) by speeding the drying time.

Have never seen anyone glue roots base to the bottom before.. I seen people use a fungicide and let it air dry for a few days then dip in rooting hormone and wet soil with rooting hormone.

Even though your mix looks to be free draining, I would definitely keep them out of any rain for a few weeks even longer, you have more control with a watering can and a fine spray, or even just a hand sprayer to mist the foliage. Out of interest, roughly what percentage have still got some feeder roots left would you say? Is the area getting any sun, filtered sun would be better than complete shade if at all possible. The concrete floor should also conduct stored heat back to the pots/soil so that's better than shelving if you can't provide actual bottom heating as there's so many. You could of course split them up and try a few in different places with varying conditions, but I don't know what you have available.

With all the specimens you have tried, you will surely get some good results, no doubt there may well be some losses, but on balance things hopefully will turn out well.

Please keep us posted as to how things are going, it's very interesting :-) This is something I would love to try myself, we've seen some amazing results, but as I only grow only a few I'm very reluctant to give any of them the chop so I need to be brave. I've now got 9 seedlings coming along nicely....now, where IS that scalpel????

Gill

AJ,

The softening to a point is normal. You would never want to do any pruning of roots or upper branches unless the plant was actively growing.

A Dormant tree will not grow as intended and will surely succumb to rot.

Ryan,

The Glue is used on the surface area exposed when cutting off the roots. No roots are being Glued onto the plant.

Rick

If there is an "ideal mix" I have it. Holds little water and easily falls away from root mass. There is now a pocket of perlite at the base providing even more drainage. I only plan to mist the top one more day and then stop. These are under a large covered outdoor structure that receives about an hour of light just before sunset. I plan to move to to filtered and then eventually into a greenhouse with full sun. I can keep light/heat ideal at least until mid January.

Feeder roots - I left at least one or two on every plant just because of how close to fall it is and the amount of leaves present. Cutting was easy as a fresh turnip or radish; smelled like one when cut as well. I used a sharpened, clean kitchen knife.

That is great to hear about softening being normal. I'm fine with losing a few but I don't want to see a 100% failure rate.

Thanks again for all replies and assistance.

Rick,

why do they glue the surface area? For roots don't grow out the bottom?

Ryan,

The original use for glue was to attach a disc on the bottom, but it also dries and seals the cut 'flat' area. If you look at the 5th photo in the collage of photo that I posted of a friends. They cut the bottom off straight across, then on an angle around the caudex a very small slice is taken off all the way around. The Glue only goes on the flat surface the angle cut is for more surface area of cambium layer to produce roots.

Rick

My notes:

I think this should be done as fast as possible vs very long times to dry at each stage. Superglue or a must faster setting glue vs wood glue is likely a better choice.

I think the technique of using an upside planter in the new pot to act as a base has merit. But of course, you may need tons of little planters. If you only had a few, I would try that and maybe even skipping gluing all together if done in the spring.

I would not skip the fungicide. Seems like very cheap insurance.

I would leave 1-2 feeder roots if possible. I think that is helping recovery time for me.

I hate to bump my own post, but only one of the pots pictured above is showing signs of rot. It's most likely due to me not being able to keep the green house higher than 33F some nights. (I know--every bad) If you can keep your adeniums in a dry mix, late root pruning seems like it works just fine.

Again, sorry for the self bump but I hope it may help someone else.

Hi AJ,

I used to use Sulfur powder, then Cinnamon, and finally nothing. Never used glue either. I've found as long as you let the plant callous sufficiently; you should be alright. (Patience is key.)

Before I prune the caudex; I soak my plants in "Azos". Do the cut (with angled cut around the edge), dip in rooting hormone, let dry sufficiently, then fill my pot to the desired depth with slightly moist soil, place a yogurt lid (or any appropriate round disk) where the plant will go, place the Adenium, then backfill the rest of the soil. I use a rubber mallet to tap the sides of the pot to settle the soil.

Rob

AJ: You have every right to bump a thread ... Why not? Thanks for bumping. I love followups and am sure most of us do, as well. So, your babies have recovered! Congrats ... Great to know. I wonder if the original softening was due to them still being in seedling stage. I cut a few of my arabicums (1st time ever) at age 2 months, lost about 4 (shriveled and never recouped), and am hesitant to unveil what frankenthing actually happened below ground with the survivors. Will do so next month under a separate thread when I re-pot.

Rob: So, you don't actually glue anything to the bottom of yours to seal them off? And no roots push through in the center? That's interesting and I will certainly try that yogurt lid tip this summer. Would love to see a picture of the developed roots when you can, please. Thanks for sharing.

Maria Elena

Yeah, I save yogurt lids, or if I get some food togo and there's Styrofoam containers, I cut the bottoms out, and save the lids. It's always good to have a collection of different sized round things. And no, I've never had roots grow from the center. Although I believe it's critical to make that angled cut around the edge.

When you cut the caudex; you have flat edges, so like using a paring knife to peel a Potato, cut like that around the edge of the caudex. Then I put a little rooting hormone in a baggie, place it around the caudex, and shake it up to get an even coat, then hang to dry.

EC transplant last night.

Rob

(Soaking in Azos)

(Rooting hormone in a water jug lid)

Got it. Thanks!!

It seems best practices are:

• clean cut

• block/restrict downward root growth (glue and/or flat physical object)

• make sure that you new cut is not in direct contact with moist medium/mix. (not needed if you used flat physical object).

Glue seems just like insurance and likely not needed if you can control environment/temps.

@LatinLady Leaving on 1-2 feeder roots seems like it helped. May require you to let it grow more before cutting but should help it recover quicker. Cutting off all the roots does look nicer but me be risky for quite a few people. I used no gloves, no presoak, no rooting hormone, glue, right before colder temps, and had few issues.

AJ - Don't forget the callousing (drying) process. The best way is to hang the Adenium.

Rob

Mine got way too soft to even attempt that. I was afraid of causing bruising/damage. Might have something to do with how large these were and doing it during active growth. I just laid them out on old screening and had an industrial fan dry them off completely.

I have one plant that did this on its own---by the time I noticed it was stressing out, it had started to recover. the entire root mass rotted and it regrew roots along the rim of its healed trunk. I have to say, that annoyed me a bit because I then had to put it in a wider pot than I otherwise would have used and take up more space than it otherwise should have!

In fact, I'm going to dig it out today to have a look-see because AJ's project is inspiring.

Ah, another testimony to the amazing bounce-back-ability of our beloved adenium. That's exactly how they survive in "the wild." And here we are coddling them like we're actually doing something! Pagan, must share pics, please ... please!

I keep saying. what jedoba calls "torture" I call "adenium care". Lol

I have to go shovel some snow first. The husband is already out there and might break something.

Heard you guys got about a foot of snow in NYC yesterday, 2 feet out on Long Island, more in upstate NY. Did the whole tri-state get that storm?

I got this little surprise to warm the soul this morning ... These never bloom here but the fuscia always gives me a couple of blooms, as if to remind me of home. Too bad the other six colors don't follow suit. Hey, at least I've managed to keep them alive & spider free in this climate.

Maria Elena

i feel so sorry for NY. (not) We had that storm 3 days ago … just three inches of snow here and quite chilly… [neg] windchills. It is 50 degrees today and our snow pack is melting … so they will get that