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miss_linguist

Meely bugs!!!!!! HELP!

9 years ago

I have found a few meely bugs on 6 of my sans. I immediately removed the affected plants from my main growing area and cleaned the visible bugs off with rubbing alcohol. My theory is that the alcohol will not do much damage because it will evaporate quickly, and I haven't seen any damage so far. So far I have not seen more, but I know that means that more may be hatching soon. I'm wondering about some more solutions for this problem.

Has anyone found an effective way to combat them? I was looking up neem oil, but it seems like it can be damaging to leaves if the concentration is too high. The greenhouse sold me some "systemic chemical," but I'm a little scared to use it on my sans because I don't want to damage them or kill them.

Thanks!

Comments (19)

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Some people recommend spraying with a mixture of 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water. I personally have never dealt with mealybugs (and I hope I'll never have to) so I don't have anything to say myself. What you did already is good though-check your plant every day for new mealies and continue to remove any more that appear with a Q tip bathed in rubbing alcohol.

    Don't use the "big guns" ('cides) until you've tried every other alternative possible.

  • 9 years ago

    If it's just a couple of them, I'd stick to alcohol swabbing them off the plant.

    I didn't think it common for Sans. to get bugs. Are you sure that's what that is?

    For those not new here, Norma used to practically swear that Sans. don't get bugs.

    I'd avoid the 50/50 alcohol spray on Sans, don't know if it'll damage the leaves. If it does, they won't recover & will take a long time for them to grow out.

    If mine, I'd check & do the alcohol swab every 3 days or so for a good couple of weeks.


  • 9 years ago

    I'm sure they are mealy bugs. They are little round white fuzzy looking things on the leaves of some plants. They kind of turn yellow and mushy when touched with the alcohol, but they come off easily. I have also noticed the characteristic clear liquid on the leaves, as well as some webbing from a leaf to the rim of the pot. I'm positive of this identification, but I have no idea how I got them because I haven't added new plants in over a month.

  • 9 years ago

    I have used Bayer 3-in-1 (Insect, Disease and Mite Control) for both outside shrubs and potted Haworthia and Sansevieria. My outside shrubs had a horrible mealy infestation. I did a drench, pouring the recommended amount into a 2-gal watering can and simply drenching OVER the entire plant, and also into the soil it was planted in, making sure that all the leaves got "watered." It worked beautifully on the mealies. (Alcohol has not worked as well for me) No second application was needed. For potted plants and spider mites (and I'm sure it would work for mealies too), I poured an appropriate amount into a spray bottle, filled with tap water and sprayed thoroughly, making sure all the leaves got wet. So far -- no visible signs of spider mites remain, so I am very hopeful. I have sprayed 3 Sans so far, including one huge Masoniana -- and they appear to have recovered well to date. Bayer is strong stuff, so I am always prepared to possibly lose the plant -- but so far, I haven't.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Are certain cultivars more resistant to mealies, do you think? I have seen only a few of them on my francisii and pinguicula, but I keep looking at them (especially pinguicula) and thinking that it looks like they would be less attractive to mealies because the leaves are very thick and it's more difficult to hide between the leaves.

    As an update, last week I started checking everyday and cleaned off the visible mealies with an alcohol swab. On the weekend, I sprayed with a neem oil mixture that I made myself with just 1 tsp pure neem oil, a few drops of dish soap, and 1 L of water. Today I applied the systematic pesticide, which is granules that get mixed in the top layer of soil and then gets watered in. I did not put the systematic pesticide in the francisii and pinguicula. We'll see what happens. Today I only found about 2 adult mealies, and I have six affected plants so far.

  • 9 years ago

    They like to hide in the cracks and crevices where leaves join together. Keep checking them. I would bring out the big guns of systemic on mealies though there are a couple of different types. I had a root mealie on my Sans years ago multiplied like crazy and was horrible so I am very leary of mealies on Sans.

  • 9 years ago

    I would treat all of the plants you own. Use a lighter mix for protection. Even if they don't like the other sans, they might be hiding and waiting for an chance to attack.

    I treat all my plants twice a year. Once when I bring them out in late spring and again about now before I bring them back in. Suppose to last 6 months so that's about right. I use the Bayer 3 in 1 which mixes with water and can control how much I add or can spray right on foliage. So far for years, no problems ever. I also use Bonide brand Captan (found internet). Controls fungus and rot. It leaves a slight whiteish effect on the foliage but who cares. Very small about in spray bottle once a year on everything. Good on roses also.

    Stush

  • 9 years ago

    Stush, do you spray it all over the foliage without any side effects?

    I think I should try both products you suggest. When I start reading labels, I get freaked out by all the warnings. Most of the products I saw at the greenhouse for houseplants were for spraying on the bugs when you see them and then you had to wash off the spray to avoid damage to the plant. So I appreciate your input and suggestions.

    I live in South Dakota, so all of mine are houseplants year round.

  • 9 years ago

    Bayer is a systemic, which means it goes all thru the plant roots and all. So a light spray on any of the foliage will go all thru the plant. That's why I don't use it on my outside flowers. Kills the bees. Not sure about the Captan. But seems to help with any fungus or rot problems I encounter. This is my first year using the Captan.

    Main ingredient in Bayer is Imidacloprid, also used in flea and tick protection for dogs. Not sure for cats as well. Not good to eat the plants so it's not used for food plants. Bonide sells 'Fruit Tree Spray'‎ which is much safer. If you can eat the fruit after spraying (after a few days), it must be a lot safer. Nothing is all safe. But for house plants, I can take the chance.

    Note; Anything that contains Malathion will have a bad smell. I use this only outside in summer. I use it on all my outside plants and vegetables. No harm to the bees. This is found in Bonide 'Fruit Tree Spray'‎ as well as Captan. Check on line for best price and sometimes free delivery.

  • 9 years ago

    I've read the Bayer label online, and it looks like just the ticket! It sounds like it keeps killing bugs for 30 days without reapplication (I suppose because it stays on the leaves and they eat it). Thanks for the advice.

    I think I identified Patient Zero, which was a Whitney baby (one small rhizome from ebay) that I threw out last month. I thought I overwatered it, but I looked at the empty pot yesterday and found some mealybug silk on bottom of it. Before I threw it out, it was hollow with white spots all over it (so sad!). I thought it was some kind of mold. But I think the mealies came from a different source because I got the Whitney like in June from ebay. The most recent plants I got were from Petco, and I think I probably wouldn't trust Petco as a great source for sans. But they had an Eve, and I had never seen one before.

    I'll just treat them all, and hopefully that will be the end of it.

  • 9 years ago

    Check the Sans. forum. In early summer, I may have extra Eve and Whitney for postage along with Moonshine.

  • 9 years ago

    I'm panicking because I treated all of my sans on Oct 13, and now I have found evidence of mealies again! I have actually only SEEN 2-3 of the actual bugs, but I know that means there are more. I'm using the Bayer Natria pesticide for houseplants (I believe the same stuff that was mentioned on this forum with a new label), which stated it would continue working for one month. One month is supposedly more than enough for new ones to hatch an die before reproducing, thus ending the infestation..right? Apparently wrong.

    Anyone else have thoughts on how many applications this should take? I suspect they are based in the roots because I have never seen the classic fuzzy bunches of bugs that people report online. I found this http://www.succulentsandsunshine.com/kill-mealybugs-on-succulents/ I might have to try watering with alcohol, but wondering if anyone has tried it?

    Thanks.

  • 9 years ago
    I would definitely do multiple treatments at least 3 times maybe 3 weeks apart. I have also taken the leftover spray and drenching the soil with it yes they could be st the roots.
  • 9 years ago

    Bayer Natria is an insecticidal-soap not the same as Bayer 3 in 1 which is a systemic having Imidacloprid. Very effective against killing sucking pest all through the plant. Also heard of using Listerine Original mouthwash which contains Thymol and Benzoic Acid along with Alcohol. Also found in some cheap Dollar Store brands.

  • 9 years ago

    what do you do with the Listerine?

  • 9 years ago

    Fred, Never used it myself but will start soon. Russ used it and had good results. Some mix with 1/2 water and spray on leaves as a plant wash and some use full strength with no ill results. As long as you don't over do it. Like spraying every other day or so. Russ may add more.

  • 9 years ago

    That is interesting. I have an Aspidistra (cast iron plant) that I can not rid of bugs. So I may consider this treatment.

  • 9 years ago

    OK...it just goes on and on...after using the 70% alcohol for mealybug control for about a week, I decided to get the Bayer with Imidacloprid, which I was able to find locally at Lowe's (plus a new shipment of 4-in Whitneys for $3.49 each!!).

    My review of the alcohol treatment is that you have to spray everyday, and even then I kept finding single bugs, but bugs all the same. The alcohol does kill on contact, but it doesn't have staying power, as the alcohol evaporates and then you are left with no defense until you respray. Also, I found a few MUSHY leaves after a week of spraying, possibly from where the alcohol couldn't evaporate fast enough. I've never had mushy leaves before, so it must be the alcohol.

    Hoping the Imidacloprid works!

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