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Charles Grimaldi not blooming..?

10 years ago

Hi everyone - this is my Charles Grimaldi's second year. I purchased this from a Brugmansia nursery - it flowered beautifully in the fall. I prepared it for overwintering, according to all the information I could find. In the spring it came back with lots of leaves, and has grown in height quite a bit... but still no buds. It's mid October... shouldn't I be seeing something by now? Any help, advice or guidance is greatly appreciated from this Brugmanisa novice!

Comments (5)

  • 10 years ago

    I would water it really well and then give it some bloom booster fertilizer. I just use the off brand of Miracle Grow Bloom Booster that you can get at Walmart or Home Depot etc. Fertilizing well along with the cooler nights should stimulate some blooms. Make sure its getting enough sun. Brugmansia are really very heavy feeders and most people do not realize just how much fertilizer they need.

  • 10 years ago

    Good advice.......................did your Charles Grimaldi produce blooms????

  • 9 years ago

    Not to contradict sultry_jasmine_nights, but I was taught never to give brugs bloom fertilizer because it causes them to lose leaves. I've done it, and have noticed some leaf drop, but they did bloom.

  • 9 years ago

    Rdrubins, You need to fertilize it. I feed mine the regular MiracleGro plant food (blue crystals that dissolve in water) feed it biweekly they love it.

    Dirtygardener, trust me they love the MiracleGro fertilizer. If you see yellowing of leafs it's due to feeding it too often. I feed biweekly and they love it. Also never feed a plant when it's thirsty because it will burn the plant and it can possibly be causing the yellowing you experience. What I do it I water and then feed after an hour or so. It gets pretty hot out here in CA so they get thirsty everyday that is why I do that to not shock the plant.

  • 9 years ago

    Agree being MOIST being highly important, which is easily done here in PNW, except in August where must water!

    My PNE z8b is very different than northern Texas, Florida, Georgia, North Canolina, Rome Italy. We have a mild Oceanic cool summer climate, like much of mainland England.

    My typical outdoor result with the method described below is illustrated here with Brugmansia 'Little Angel'. Branched plants or single stem cuttings taken from mature growth plants bloom even on 1.5' tall plants. I get a flower bud at EVERY new leaf node. With up to 4 flushes of buds lined up and expanding, as you look above the currently open flower.

    Initial 8" long 1" diameter rooted cuttings to mature plant until frost show a RELIABLE bloom canopy expansion pattern, with flower count pattern = 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 per flush. The flower count is further increased by some in between random flowering. So I often have continous bloom (thus night fragrance) for 2-3 months. Being bright white in color, reliable blooming for us and of manageable size, this is a favorite Moongarden plant for us, at least when grown outside!

    This year I'm trying a stored 4'+ mature branch structure plant to get 64, 128, 256 etc etc? flowers.

    These methods give the same results with 'Frosty Pink' and 'Maya', except 'Frosty Pink' is slower to begin blooming.

    'Charles Grimaldi' seemed to like this method too, but we got our plant late in season and the smaller non woody cuttings didn't store well. So have to get one again and try it. 'Samadhi' claimed my current golden flower test spot.

    By the way I feel 'Little Angel' is misnamed. It should be called 'Compact Angel', 'White Napoleon', or 'Mighty Compact White'? It has FULL SIZED flowers and fragrance on compact plants, caused by 1/2 the typical stem length between nodes. So 'Little Angel' makes a great small patio or balcony focal plant. AND it more easily overwintered inside as a mature than some other favorites. Size look okay?

    Growth Method Used

    Full sun or at least heavy sun, heavy fertilizer, rich humsy soil, and don't let dry out much and avoid spider mites (check leaf undersides, they are magnets for them when stored over winter inside and mite infestations sap strength, stopping flowering and dropping more infested older leaves.)

    Brugs like to drop lower leaves no matter what you do! They get more shade there and are less productive for them.

    They are heavy feeders. Have tried different fertilizers but a 10-10-10 4 month slow release pelleted type works best for me. I use at 2x loading and every 3 months, not every 4 mo. If fertilzing other plants with 1/4x soluble fertilizer, during most active Brug growth times I often also give this to them too, either watering in or as foliar misting. Miracle Gro, Sea Weed extract, about anything, they just like enough nutrients to support their massive growth rate.

    If yours has been starved, Brugs respond quickly to foliar feeding make sure to spray leaf undersides. Mites if you have them don't like moisture much, ferlizers might not help them much either!

    Do not use 1x fertilizer as foliar feed unless washed off before hard dries on surface. Salts can burn leaves (Miracle Gro when made from dry mix is especially table salt. It's AWESZOME fertilizer for nutrient balance and trace minerals and chelators, except for all the salt they add to help it dissolve!)

    B. 'Snowbank' with 1/4x Miracle Gro foliar feed misting. The lower leaf blade length was about 1.5' long! I was pumping up vigor on our abundant hydrangeas in early May and gave it to this Brug too. Our PNW slugs here don't like foliar feed very much on leaves ... which works PDW (pretty darn well) for me!

    Seeing some on going success with Brugmansia, I've expanded those being grown in the larger yard of our new house. Shown below are mostly internet photos. The cuttings obtained via internet early spring 2017 are growing nicely now. Fingers crossed. The literature suggests Brugmansia should respond great to our cool summers, not that commonly over 90 (or even 80- 85 F).

    R4 C1 'Naughty Nick' will give me some lanky plant experience. R4 C3 'Painted Lady' and R3 C3 'Sun Spot' have the most red potential so far. And there's double (e.g., R5 C1 Samadhi) to triple (R1 C2 'Angel Sun Spot' and R4 C2 'Peaches and Cream') skirted and variegated (e.g., R3 C2 'Maya'). Also trying both outwardly flaired and neatly pendant bloomers (e.g., R2 C1 'Apricot Moongarden'). By years end I should have a more useful cross section of experience with growing Brugs here, and hopefully positively incensed the neighbors too over the fence!

    The variegated leaf 'Maya' = 'Sunset' has always worked well for me and crazy thing even can bloom heavily indoors under T5 lights in winter indoor storage. 'Snowbank' the vigorous polyploid mutant discovered from 'Maya' has larger more highly variegated leaves, but is a much more shy bloomer until it gets large. Developed in Oregon it may not be proven yet in hotter climates?

    Highly suggest to not grow 'Maya' or any other Brug inside your house near your bedroom. It's far too night fragrant inside a house. Our 3 cats did leave it and 3 other Brugs alone. Brugmansia leaves smell and I suspect taste bitter too, either on the plant or fallen. The toxins don't stop slugs though. Continue to use pet safe, iron phosphate active agent, slug bait. Among local PNW 'Slugo' sources, Costco has by far the best price.

    --- Anyone have an extra, strong performing deeper red Brug to exchange or Zena? I have an extra 'Little Angel'. It grows and blooms great with powerful noctural fragrance and looks awesome in a Moongarden. Woody cuttings @ ~1" dia store, root, and grow great. We've had ours going great now for 4 yr. ---