If they already have formed the little bulbs, you can plant outside in a weedfree location and cover with mulch and hardware cloth to protect against mice. If the mice are really bad this year, that won't be enough, so you might want to put them in damp peat in the fridge for their nap. They need 3 or 4 months, then can be planted in a flat in the porch, if you like, or several to a pot in a sunny window. They send up a tuft of grass like leaves and fatten up quite a bit. The following year you might get a short stalk with a bloom or two. You can plant them outside after hardening off, they don't have to stay in the house past last frost date. Keep the grass short next to the planted area, to discourage mice and squirrels/skunks, whatever eates them where you live.

I've gone looking for the site where I once read about this sort of thing as I was interested in propagating some daffodils by this method at the time.

I think I recognise the site. Anyhow, here is a copy and paste of the twin-scaling part... (hope it prints ok)...

Scaling, chipping, scooping and scoring bulbs

There are several different ways in which bulbous plants can be propagated, other than by division or by seed. These techniques all require more effort and more exacting standards of hygiene and care, however they are very useful for bulbs which do not readily grow from seed or which do not form offsets.

As with other types of propagation, you should only select bulbs which are healthy, typical of that plant and pest and disease free.

Scaling

This method is used on bulbs which are loosely bunched together, so the scales can be removed by hand. Bulbs such as lilies and some fritillaries can be propagated by scaling. It will take between three and four years to produce flowering size bulbs.

Once the top growth has naturally died down from a bulb, lift it, clean it and dry it. Then simply snap off the required number of outer scales, removing them as close to thebasal plate as possible. Discard any withered or damaged scales. The parent bulb should be re-planted immediatley. If you wish, you could use all the scales from the parent plant.

Apply fungicide to the bulb to prevent any infections while it is growing, then place it in a plastic bag with a moist mixture of half perlite and half peat/coir or vermiculite. Blow air into the bag (this will provide oxygen to allow the plant material to respire) then seal and label it. Keep the bag in a dark place at around 20°C (a heated propagatoror an airing cupboard is ideal).

After a few months you will find that tiny bulbs (‘bulblets’) have formed at the base of the scales. If the scales are softened and not attached to the delicate root structure then they can be carefully pulled off the bulbets and discarded, otherwise leave them in place. Pot the bulblets in a mixture of half loam-based potting compost and half finegrit. Water and label the pots, then cover the tops with a layer of grit. Grow the bulblets on in a cool, shady place over the summer and in a cold frame over the winter. Pot them on each autumn or spring until they reach flowering size, at which point they can be planted out.

Twin-scaling

Where bulbs are closely packed together this is the alternative method to scaling. Since you are cutting open the bulb you must ensure that your hands, all instruments and the working surface are hygienically clean, wear surgical gloves if you are in doubt.

Remove the roots (though not the basal plate), the tunic and any old, withered scales from the bulb. Cut the ‘nose’ off the bulb (the pointed end) and cut down through the basal plate to divide the bulb into 8 or more segments (the larger the bulb the more segments you can produce). Starting at the outer layer of each segment, peel back the first two scales with your knife, scalpel or fingernail. Then cut downwards into the basal plate to remove these two scales, so that they have a small piece of basal plate attached. Repeat this process until you have as many twin-scales as you require. Treat all the twin scales with fungicide (dipping them in a fungicide solution and drying them will provide the best coverage). Then treat them as described above for scales. The bulblets should form in about 12 weeks.

http://www.oakleafgardening.com/how-to/get-new-plants-from-your-existing-ones/scaling-chipping-scooping-and-scoring-bulbs/