Well...,yes sort of, but not clear for the OP. In ohms, one is looking for a reading of essentially zero. I don't know what a continuity test reads; I believe my meter is just using sound and of course a light continuity tester uses light.

Continuity tests whether an electric current can pass through a device or circuit. A simple continuity tester may be a battery-powered device with a neon or other small light (no meter/scale) that glows to confirm the test.

Some meters have a setting that beeps or buzzes to confirm the test ... which is just a convenience of having an audible signal, particularly in situations where it's difficult to see the meter and hold the probes to the test circuit at the same time such as when working inside an appliance.

Ohms is a continuity test that specifically reads the amount of resistance to the current passing through. Analog meters typically have a choice of multipliers for ohms testing (x1, x10, x100, x1000, etc.) which is to adjust the scale granularity between infinity (maximum resistance) and zero (no resistance) for readability. Digital meters may be auto-ranging, meaning the electronics in the meter automatically adjust the scale.

All incandescent light bulbs have some resistance. That's what makes the filament wire get hot, glow, and product light. In the case of testing whether a bulb is good the specific resistance reading isn't so much of concern, as long as it isn't infinity (maximum resistance, meaning no current can pass through). Set the meter to the highest ohms scale and confirm that there is a reading. The needle will move on an analog meter. A digital meter should show a number, not OL or infinity.

Thanks for replies.

I figured out that I was not pressing the Select button after going to the Continuity/speaker option on the mastech multimeter.
Now...it buzzes with known working bulbs, and does NOT buzz with these two E15 or whatever they are old appliance bulbs.
In Ohm mode, if I see resistance values
of 79, but I was told by mastech that it does not matter if I see resistance values
of 79, since the bulb did not buzz in the continuity/speaker
option. (I guess seeing 79 Ohms of resistance is a red herring when you have a broken bulb...)
Now to find a replacement...
Thanks again for the replies.
Mac

Have you tried a known E15 bulb in the same manner that you tested the known defective bulb? I ask this as the continuity/speaker option is usually just to test actual continuity of a wire end to end. Resistance value of 79 ohms could be proper value for a good E15 bulb. Better test is to read the ohmic value of a known good E15 bulb and then compare to the suspected bad bulb.

No, I do not have an E15 bulb.

Usually the continuity setting will sound a tone when the resistance is below a certain number of ohms. Mine is 100 or 300 ohms.

If your bulb was burnt out it would read infinite ohms so I don't think it is. IF it's a conventional filament bulb.

I'm not sure what an E15 is, searching for it did not turn up any pictures. Maybe it's an A15? That appears to be a common appliance bulb and is an incandescent (filament) bulb.

Since you have a meter, you can also set the meter to AC volts on a range of at least 120 (usually it's 100 or 300, choose 300) and CAREFULLY check the socket for voltage.