You don't report the make, model, depth, etc., or even what the details of the counter space are, so let me try with a generic answer.

Assuming that the unit can still be pulled out, then it would be best to make some measurements to determine what is blocking push-back. If there is a sink in this counter and some room for the cord behind any intermediate cabinets, then the power cord could be brought to the area under the sink, assuming that you have the means to install an outlet there.

Another approach would be to use a wall receptacle box with a face that is sunk into the wall so the plug doesn't protrude into the unit's needed space.

kas

Sorry. It's a Perlick beverage center. Specs say it's 24 inches deep. Cabinets are 24 inches deep, counter is 25 inches deep. My guess is that it's the plug. Is it common to recess the outlet in these situations?

I don't know what is common. I built the counter in my Family room that is over my Perlicks out to about 29-5/8 inches, but I had some heating pipes close to the wall that I wanted to clear and insulate The wood cabinet depths are 24 inches (exclusive of a longer exposed end panel), plus 3/4 inches for the doors. With an inch of stone overhang, that leaves a gap at the back of the cabinets and Perlicks of a bit less than 5 inches to the wall.

My kitchen reno was also planned and executed with deeper than normal counters and in some cases cabinets to assure room where it was needed for plumbing and electrical connections. It is the responsibility of the kitchen designer, or builder, to attend to all this minutiae, or of the owner if doing the design.

All of this is to say that I don't want to pull one of the Perlicks to see exactly where the cord comes out of the back. However, the operation and installation manual you should have received should show where the cord comes out of the back. (For my 15-inch Signature Wine Reserve, this is at 5-1/16 from the left side, and 6-5/8 above the floor.

The directions call for flush or recessed electrical outlets.

Once everything is in place it is likely to be a real pain to relocate an electrical outlet, or even recess it, especially when the width of the space is only 15 inches. That is why I suggested adding an outlet, if feasible, under a sink if present, or behind any cabinet without a rear panel that is wide enough for someone's shoulders to get past the doors. If necessary, holes in cabinet sides at the back may be needed for the cord.

It is impossible to determine from here what approach is best, but if I were you I would pull the unit and take measurements to determine what the problem is. The step after that is assigning blame. :)

In my judgment, if you had a house built and you weren't the "architect, builder, and foreman," then your builder or one of his subs needs to correct the condition at his expense.

kas

Thanks for the reply. We supplied the cabinet maker with all of the appliances we picked prior to him making the cabinets so he knew what size everything was. I spoke to the builder and he is having the electrician put in a recessed outlet. The outlet that is currently there is just a standard outlet. Hopefully this will be enough to alleviate this issue.