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kellyccurry

Boxwood alternative?!?

9 years ago

Hi there!

First, I'm in Zone 7 right outside of Charlottesville, Va. I planted Winter Gem boxwoods in front of my house under the windows 2 years ago. My house gets full sun in the front AND it sits on a hill so I think it must be very drying! Last spring I had to cut my boxwoods back almost in half because of winter burn (they recovered) but they're already looking pretty bad this winter and I think they're just too exposed there. I'm looking for a small hedge like evergreen that can take full sun and (I guess?) windy conditions. Btw, I don't like Japanese hollies...haven't had success with them in the past. I'd love any other suggestions!!!

Comments (55)

  • 9 years ago

    Thank you so much for your feedback! They've definitely bronzed but they're crispy on the tips. We put up a burlap screen to help


    ...I just went out and took some pics...

  • 9 years ago

    thats not bronzing ...


    i suspect improper watering ... how pot bound were they when planted ...


    sounds like you replanted.. what is base soil ... how did you plant them ... what was your watering protocol ... are you ferting????


    is that lavender out near the sidewalk??? .... they like dry roots .. which might indicate how dry it is ... one thing for sure.. that is one happy rose ...


    really stabbing around blindly on this... there is no reason.. per above.. that you should have any zone issues with this plant ...which takes me to cultural ....


    why are they planted so close to the foundation???... could cement leeching be an issue????


    ken

    kellyccurry thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
  • 9 years ago

    Again, thanks for the feedback so I can figure out what's going on!

    I got them at Lowes and they were healthy and didn't seem that pot bound when we planted them (although we always tease the roots out). We DID amend the soil w tree/shrub garden soil as we have a new construction house and it's mostly rocks, but now I'm reading that that's not recommended for shrubs anymore???

    As for watering, I watered until I felt like they were established but really haven't watered them much since. No fertilizing.

    The bed is not quite 6' deep so in order to have some evergreen shrubs and perennials, I really have no choice but to plant there. That's catmint by the way and it and the roses are very happy!:)

    Do you think I should try and move them? I have boxwoods against foundation in the backyard (north side of house) and they've stayed green. If I move them, what should I plant there? It sounds like the general consensus is that they should be fine there and there's something else going on? What about the fact that we are on a hill so water drains away???

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The elephant in the room here is almost all boxwood cultivars are susceptible to boxwood blight, including this one I believe. So, long term, OP might want to consider another plant anyhow.

    Actually some reports (which I would take with a grain of salt) out there that it is resistant. For now at least: http://www.saundersbrothers.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/home.showpage/pageID/152/index.htm

    kellyccurry thanked UpperBayGardener (zone 7)
  • 9 years ago

    Thanks davidrt28!! I see you're in zone 7 also...do you agree w me thinking that boxwoods need some protection in full winter sun? I AM planting something else there...what do y'all think about Carissa holly? I hear they're pretty indestructible and can take tough conditions. Thoughts???

  • 9 years ago

    I would leave them there and see if they don't make a good recovery in spring. Just make sure the rootballs are watered well. One possible piece of the puzzle is likely the rootballs were rootbound and dried out. Watering next to a rootball will not always adequately water the plant.

    Next mild spell, hand water each plant at the base.

    kellyccurry thanked Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
  • 9 years ago

    Ok thanks!

  • 9 years ago

    Ligustrum quihoui? Not sure if it is invasive in your area. One of the closest alternatives I have seen other than japanese holly.

    kellyccurry thanked Logan L Johnson
  • 9 years ago

    Hmm...hadn't heard of that ligustrum. I think I've decided to move the boxwoods to the back where they'll be more protected. I don't like the bronzing in the front and I'd really like something that keeps it's green color in the winter so...any suggestions for what to plant? Yaupon holly or carissa holly? Although it's the closest look to boxwood, I've had twig dieback with Japanese compacta hollies so I'm hesitant to do that or helleri or soft touch. Thoughts???

  • 9 years ago

    If you are going to use ligustrum at all, make sure it is ligustrum quihoui because most of the other ones are an invasive bother.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    IME, Winter Gem is definitely more susceptible to winter injury/burn than Green Velvet and Green Mountain. My Green Velvet boxwoods are in an exposed location and suffered very little damage after the extreme cold of 2013/14 and 2014/15.

    I'm pretty sure the boxwoods pictured in photo 1 below are Winter Gems:

    http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/winter_injury_or_boxwood_blight

    kellyccurry thanked arbordave (SE MI)
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I dug out some boxwoods today (regular species, buxus sempervirens) with a little bit of cold damage on the branch tips. Now, these are hard pruned during the summer, repeatedly sheared, and heavily fertilized while growing in the nursery beds. They are very dense, yet oddly shaped because they grow so close together. I potted about 5 of them today for spring sale. It seems, like Dave says, that the damage is due to the cultivar not being hardy enough for your conditions. You may want to try the regular species, or one of the other more hardy cultivars.

    kellyccurry thanked Logan L Johnson
  • 9 years ago

    arbordave, I totally agree with you! My mom has boxwoods in Ky zone 6 in an exposed location BUT they're not Winter Gem. And come to think of it, several of my neighbors have Green Mountain boxwood in full sun. Maybe I should try a more hardy cultivar... There just aren't that many options for low evergreen hedges. A couple more questions... Would it be impossible to keep dwarf burford holly to 2-3' feet? And are helleri hollies finicky like Compacta?

  • 9 years ago

    Hollies take well to shearing and topiary pruning.

    kellyccurry thanked Logan L Johnson
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Zone 7 should be no challenge for boxwoods from a hardiness perspective.

    kellyccurry thanked Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Sounds (and looks) like these particular box just aren't hardy in that location. If the behavior is unexpected for the variety maybe they were mislabeled.

    kellyccurry thanked Embothrium
  • 9 years ago

    I agree! That's why I'm going to move them to the back. After researching, I just do not want to do Japanese Hollies...I've never had success with those.

    Dave in NoVa, you're in Va too, do you have boxwoods? If yes, what kind and where do you have them? Would Green Velvet be more cold hardy???? Thanks!

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, several different varieties and I've never had a problem with them. Not sure of variety names any more. I think Winter Gem, Green Velvet, and regular B. sempervirens 'Suffruticosa'. 'Winter Gem' is supposed to be nearly zone 5 hardy.

    Consistent watering is very important when getting them established. Where did you purchase your boxwoods, if you don't mind me asking? Big Box stores are notorious for overly rootbound plants, which can be very difficult to keep watered until establishment.

  • 9 years ago

    Many sites recommend box honeysuckle as a plant with similar habit/form. Even Japanese hollies don't truly replicate the spirit of boxwood, they are hard to replace! Less formal hedges that are zone 7 friendly and would fit, dimensions-wise, might be ilex glabra shamrock, densa or compacta (big, lush, dark green leaves) or dwarf arctic willow (although it drops leaves in the fall). Winter Red heath is an evergreen that will slowly get approx 2'x2' and flower dec-march, but may require some burlap fencing to stay at its best. I wonder if your boxwood won't settle in and look great this coming winter?

  • 9 years ago

    Always important to keep an eye out for invasive habits--honeysuckles are generally invasive, although I haven't seen reports specific to this one--I'm a bit sheepish to admit i stopped my research when I realized it wasn't an option here in zone 6!

  • 9 years ago

    Presumably Logan has deleted a post re Lonicera nitida based on the Genus name. That does make for confusing reading. Although L nitida does have small box-like leaves it is not such a sturdy plant as box and larger bushes, even clipped, tend to grow bulgy and capsize. I don't know if it would survive a winter which can knock back box.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I took this pic a few days ago for a comment on the hydrangea forum but can you see all the boxwoods in the background?..NONE have turned bronze and NEVER have..the Winter Gem variety does not bronze..hence the name..my neighbors and I love boxwoods (deer resistant and shade tolerant) and have talked about them alot..I have 92..I like Winter Gem, Vardar Valley and Wintergreen and don't care for Green Mountain and Green Velvet (color is not as good in my opinion)..sorry to say but yours seem sick to me..not sure why..

  • 9 years ago

    stepped out and took a close up..see no bronzing..and my climate is colder..hate to say it but you might have blight..

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Winter Gem is a glossier, brighter green than GM & GV, but I like the latter 2 for their darker color. IMO they are also more cold hardy than WG. This winter and last winter haven't been a real test. And anyway as Dave in NoVA said above about the OP's location "Zone 7 should be no challenge for boxwoods from a hardiness perspective."

    See this webpage regarding hardiness of WG (in zone 5):

    http://www.myturkeyhollowtwilightzone.com/caring-boxwoods-zone-5/

    Also, here is a quote from the Morton Arb Plant Clinic about WG: "An extremely hardy variety that is a good choice for northern climates, but in our Zone 5 area however, 'Winter Gem' can turn a 'bronzy color' in cold winter months (not staying dark green all winter) if they are not sited correctly. The plant is best sited in full sun in a well-drained sheltered location which protects it in winter from strong winds."

  • 9 years ago

    kellyccurry, BY ALL MEANS pay a visit to Blandy Farm seeing how it is in your back yard. Since you are in boxwood country you should be educating the rest of us. See MY POST which has some pics taken at Blandy Farm.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    arbordave..blogger in the link has 14 shrubs..I have 92..pic of my GV tag..more pointy narrow duller leaves..not as dark..would post a pic of my GV or GM (had both) but I removed them(NOT as pretty as WG to me)..could you post a pic of your GV and GM?..you say they are darker than mine and I would like to see them..the pic of my WG was taken today in bright sunshine..they are in person a very dark green..lived here 12 years and no burn..yet they are NOT in full sun, sheltered or in well drained soil..I stand by my results..WG is a good boxwood for a cold zone..some references say my zone is 5 others 6..but either way colder than the OP..

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    nicholsworth - I won't disagree with you that most observers would probably consider WG to be a more attractive plant than GV and GM, but I thought it was important to note that in colder zones GV & GM are less susceptible to winter injury. (Chicagoland Green and Northern Charm are a couple others that are very hardy).

    http://www.homenursery.com/blog/bid/328704/Green-Velvet-Boxwood-VS-Winter-Gem-Boxwood-comparison

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks arbordave..I'm just saying that my WG's look BETTER than my neighbors GM and GV (and mine when I had them) in ALL seasons..maybe not for some..but we've compared (they've asked me about mine) and they've told me "your boxwoods look better than mine"..I have good native soil and mine live in dappled light when my trees are leafed out..will be VERY sad if blight gets here..will read the link you posted more thoroughly later but notice that it says Green Velvet has a more pale green leaf..

  • 9 years ago

    Wow! Thank you for all the great responses today! So since my last post, I went to my favorite local nursery and they only recommend TWO varieties of boxwoods for full sun...Green Velvet and Green Mountain! Arbordave, you were totally right! My WG are starting to green up but they turn crispy every winter so I'm moving them to a more protected area. The ones that get shade in the backyard look great and didn't even bronze! In the spring I'm planting Green Velvet.:) sam_md, I'm definitely looking into visiting Blandy Farms, thanks! Nicholsworth55, your WG DO look great, I'm wondering if it's bc they're in a protected area? They look like they're set within trees...mine are totally exposed.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    kelly..you are correct..I have NO full sun..I kept buying boxwoods since they did well in my shade..and evergreen (no bronze) in the winter looked great when my other plants were dormant..hope the other varieties do well for you..

  • 9 years ago

    Those WG boxwoods op posted don't look too bad. Boxwoods need a year to get established. I live in upstate NY and mine all had dead branches on top after the first winter. I just cut the dead branches off in the spring. The next winter, they just bronzed at the top. The bronzing goes away around June when they put on their new growth. I think WG looks better than the other cultivers in the summer when they are all glossy and green, but I wish I had planted a variety that doesn't bronze as much in the winter.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    exactly, unclehippie. They have minor damage from being both unestablished and unhardened. As I said!

    Winter bronzing, if it occurs regularly or "normally", may or may not be undesirable. Some cultivars of some plants bronze no matter how mild the winter, like Cryptomeria 'Elegans', and in that case it is considered part of the charm of that cultivar.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What unclehippie said sounds more like how gardenias behave for me...... lots of winter bronzing in their first two years while they assimilate to our sometimes cold but usually mild winters. I planted some boxwoods last year, but some are near my house and the other near my driveway, which I think helps to hold in heat. I seen no winter bronzing. They are starting to come out of dormancy now, I trimmed them last week (they are pyramidal topiaries).

  • 9 years ago

    I know you said you don't like Japanese holly, but really have you looked at 'Hoogendorn'?

  • 9 years ago

    No I haven't. I'll look into that. I just had twig die back w Compacta Japanese Hollies....maybe it was bad drainage. Thanks!

  • 9 years ago

    i suggest inkberry for replacement of boxwood

  • 9 years ago

    "i suggest inkberry for replacement of boxwood"

    If japanese hollies don't do well, inkberry (ilex glabra) most likely won't do well either.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The original post was from a member asking for an alternative to Boxwood, and several members have mentioned the problems with blight, which is a major issue over here too.

    I'm not sure if this new introduction is yet available in the States, it hasn't been mentioned here so far and it's new to Europe, so I'm just highlighting it in case in the not too distant future it becomes generally available internationally.... the plant in question is Rhododendron 'Bloombux'.. which is a lime tolerant Inkarho type dwarf plant, [grafted onto lime tolerant rootstock], that blooms with pink flowers in June, and can be clipped and grown in the same way as Buxus... I think it's an exciting introduction if you like this type of plant.... I have 3 which I aim to grow in containers as specimens...

    Here is a photo of my 3 very small plants, I just repotted them.. and a link to information about these if you are interested...

    They can be grown in soils with ph up to 7.5...

    Rhododendron 'Bloombux' website Germany

    ..you might need to click on 'English' for translation, at the bottom... or this may

    take you straight to the English translation..

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Marlorena, this is a great suggestion! what an interesting plant. On our Atlantic coast soil is very acidic and even sensitive Rhododendron do very well. This could be a really lovely alternative for a more formal evergreen hedge. I hope it makes it over the pond. Thank you for the tip!

  • 9 years ago

    Thank you Conor, I'm glad you liked them.... and I hope it maybe of some use to members in the future, should it become more available... it would be rather expensive if I wanted a lot of plants for a hedge, compared to Box, but for now I like these...

  • 9 years ago

    Marlorena-you're in England?!?! I dream of visiting England one day! I love your gardens over there! Thanks for the suggestion...I'll keep an eye out for that plant this spring!:)

  • 9 years ago

    Thank you Kelly, I do hope that one day you may come over for a vacation..

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thoughtful suggestion, but OP is in lower mid-Atlantic US; German rhododendron hybrids as a whole have not been known to do well in that climate.

    If kelly wanted a rhododendron, south of the Mason-Dixon line it's probably safest to stick to Louisiana-bred hyperythrum hybrids like the "Southern Living Southgates" or the non-trademarked ones like 'Charles Loomis' etc. Which are compact compared to most cultivars, though not as much as 'Bloombux'.

  • 9 years ago

    So I'm still going back and forth about whether I should even try a different boxwood in my exposed full sun front yard...Dave in NoVA suggested Hoogendorn as a substitute for boxwood and I was wondering if anyone has had experience with that? Also, soft touch holly? Are they picky? I'm kind of leaning toward a holly because I don't really want any bronzing in the front in winter. Would love to know experiences with these two. I'm also considering dwarf burford holly if I can keep it pruned to a low hedge...

  • 8 years ago

    Kelly I'm interested to know how things went for you? I have winter gem as well as green velvet and green mountain ... I have also had issues with winter gem and winter burn despite them being in a protected spot - I'm not a fan of the winter gem and will probably replace them... my GV and GM are planted in full sun and do well even in New England winters - the GV will slightly bronze with harsh winter winds but I have never had this happen with GM which seems very hardy... I suggest planting either in that spot and buy from a reputable nursery not big box store - the other issue to consider are spider mites which can devastate boxwood ... I use neem oil which is great for controlling them

  • 8 years ago

    Hi Pippin!

    Thanks for asking! I ended up moving all of my Winter Gems to the back against the house which is the north east side and more protected. They've done amazing! I decided to plant Green Velvet in the front. So far so good! I just have to see how they do through their first winter! Fingers crossed!

  • 8 years ago

    I think you will be happy with the green velvet - my fav!

  • 8 years ago

    Thanks!!!

  • 7 years ago

    ditto Smives on Winter Gem in Z7. im about to add more. As for Japanese hollies, OMG. how about native Inkberry? I have 13 Shamrocks and they are thriving without fuss - in Full sun, afternoon sun, morning sun. The growing habit loosened this Summer so maybe it's time for their 1st pruning . here are pics of: Aug 2017 and Spring 2019 growth on a few (1 ft to 3-4 ft in <2 yrs).