A "honey" color is not very dark. I would look for a darker shade in the same brand and just paint over what you have already done. But im no pro so that is just a suggestion.

tlbean, I was thinking the same thing. I'm just reluctant to buy another quart of Poly Shades since I had such a poor result the first time.

Here's a better picture of the color this was advertised as.

Hmmm that is a pretty dark color. I dont know what happened. Especially after applying 3 coats....

#1. PolyShades is the sorriest product available for finishing or refinishing. #2 You totally wasted your time sanding and applying wood conditioner before applying Poly Shades. #3 There is only about 4 or 5 label pictures to cover the intire line. #4. Look at a color chart NOT THE LABEL when choosing colors. #5 PoplotShades is the kind of stuff that will never look good regardless how it's applied. Look at the color chart to choose a color you like then slap it over what's on there now. Next time use stain and follow with clear.

PlayShades(PseudoShades) is wanna be, but very badly, finish. It is closer to a paint than a stain---no matter what MinWax lies about on the can.The color you got from that can is pretty close to how that Honey color should look.

Actually, I'm kinda impressed it looks that good.

What I'd do. You have a chance to experiment now. You can get a darker color of the same crap and see what happens---but let the stuff on there dry longer than what the can says. Too wet and the next coat can pull up what is there.

If it were me---and this is how I started learning staining, I'd try to strip all that off(no sanding, use a chemical 'orange' stripper as those are the most eco friendly.

Then, using a random orbit sander(since the wood looks solid---laminate cannot be sanded much at all), sand to 150 grit smooth finish---or leave character for an antique look.

Now, comes the interesting part. That looks like pine. Color charts at HI stores for OIL based stains!!!! have colors for pine/oak/maybe maple. Pick the shade you want for the final color.

Now, get an old Tshirt(cotton) and gloves(oil based stains do not wash off skin easily). Dip the rag(folded for ease of use) in the stain and start wiping it on. The color will be lighter, but wipe it on the entire piece. Let the application dry. Hit the surface with a hand sanding pad and the 150 grit to knock off the fuzzies. Apply more stain by wiping and repeat until happy. The pine will not stain evenly--=-that is the nature of the grains in the wood. If the second or third coat of stain is not dark enough, buy a darker shade and try that.

I make instant antique footstools. Starting with #2 or #3 one by twelve construction lumber, in about two hours(actual two to three days in time) I wind up with:http://s14.photobucket.com/user/HandyMac/media/stools001.jpg.html

Thank you everyone for the advice. I'll buy a small can of a darker Poly Shades product just to finish the desk, but won't be buying the product again. Not taking the type of wood into consideration was my fault, but aside from that, I find the product challenging to work with. It doesn't go on very smooth, coverage isn't as even as I'd like, and will require at least 4-5 coats to have a glossy and durable finish. Seems like I could have does the "old fashioned" stain+poly method in the same amount of time with less aggravation.

The desk is going into a teenagers bedroom to hold all of her art supplies. I figure it will probably see a lot of wear and tear over the years so if the finish isn't pristine, that's okay....a perfect finish wouldn't have lasted long anyway!

HandyMac: beautiful work! Now that I have the space for a home workshop and many of the tools, I'm just now starting to take an interest in building small items and refinishing old furniture. It can be costly and frustrating, but I just chalk these things up to a learning experience!

A friend of mine calls Polyshades, "The worst thing to happen to a can." The stuff I've seen looks like puke.

l have a book written in 1951 that describes these products. Won't we ever learn???

"You will discover that you have neither stained the wood properly nor applied a good coat of varnish. The reason for this should be quite obvious. The properties of a good stain are penetration and clarity. The varnish stain has neither of these qualities. It does not penetrate the surface and the varnish reduces its transparency. The result of using this stain is a muddy, streaky surface on the wood. Yet it is used by many, because it is believed that time and money are being saved.

Very little can be said in favor of these (varnish stains) from the standpoint of obtaining professional results. "

Love the quote! From my first experience with the product, that book describes the product perfectly. So not much has changed in 66 years!

Personally,I always thought Spam was the worst thing to ever happen to a can. After careful consideration I will not argue with Bob's friend. As poorly as PolyShades does refinishing it probably also taste's worse than Spam.

The scary thing is that after 66 years a product that bad is still around. I guess lots of people buy the stuff.

I was at a get-together with Varathane a number of years ago. Their marketing people and finish chemists were there introducing their new line of stains. They said an all-in-one "varnish stain" was in their development pipe-line. I think I just groaned.

What was the problem bob,you thought they might send everyone home with free samples? .