While I wouldn't want 9 ppm hardness, you may find that it doesn't bother you. Start with iron/manganese/sulfur removal. Then, if buildup/spots/etc. are bothering your, install a softener. . KInetico, Culligan, or an independent dealer can supply a non-softening iron/manganese/sulfur removal system. Here is some additional information for you:

A. Softener:
A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved
iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at
those upper limits is really pushing it so I do not recommend this
method. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate
iron. A softener will not remove sulfur compounds.

B. Oxidation/Filtration:
An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with
the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be
removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur
compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a
holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite
well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water
treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. The Aqualux you linked operates this way, sort of. Holding time is very important in this type of treatment, so I am concerned that the Aqualux won't perform as it should.

C. Oxidizing
filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank
filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is
oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds
as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I
would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several
different media that can be used:

1. Manganese
   greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be
   regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with
   dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic
   material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are
   quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not.
2. Synthetic
   greensand: This is essentially the same as option (1) but consists of
   a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as
   much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash
   flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft.
3. Birm:
   This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it
   does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved
   oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved
   oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air
   injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm
   requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per
   sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water
   temperatures and desired bed expansion.
4. Pyrolox:
   an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need
   regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a
   high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very
   well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft.
   Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily.
5. Terminox:
   Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require
   as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The
   particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this
   means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing.
   Backwash daily.
6. Filox:
   Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15
   gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily.
7. Pro-OX:
   Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft
   backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll
   have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately.
8. Katalox-light:
   Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite,
   manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 -
   12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well
   water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash.

In
all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years.
If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they
aren't trustworthy.