A house is a big, really complex set of systems. Plumbing, electric, HVAC, doors windows, etc. It's nice to lay out for maximum efficiency, but real people also have to live there. There are so many ways to save- or spend- money. Houses with all sorts of jigs and jogs in the envelope cost much more to build. Complex roofs cost a lot more to build, a lot more to re-roof later on, and may be more prone to leaks or ice dams. Many people ignore all this to get the house they want, and pay accordingly. The cheapest houses to build are simple rectangles, and yes, clustering plumbing can save some money, and is often done.

I took a different approach. I started with the land, used the topography and views to dictate the basic layout, then considered the 'livability' of the house, the flow, etc. Quite frankly, plumbing layout was about the last consideration. Since I did the work myself, so the only added cost was a bit more pipe, but didn't feel that it was all that complicated for me, a non-plumber. That being said, our house is a simple rectangle, and rather small, which saved a lot more money in construction, and in energy use going forward.

A good architect should know how to avoid pitfalls such as really complex, difficult plumbing issues. They should also know how to use standard building materials efficiently. For example, sheet goods come in 8' lengths. Designing a 97" tall wall would be very inefficient, causing the builder to have to buy longer sheets and throw the off-cuts away. Added work, added materials.

I assume you will own the project but you should tell us what your role will be in the design and construction process and who assist you. The greatest inefficiency would be to try to do everything yourself.

Whatever you role is I advise you to learn how to schedule and budget and understand that "build as fast as possible" is not a schedule and "build as cheap as possible" is not a budget.

I don't think of grouping bathrooms close together as being that much more efficient or cost effective. PCV drain and pex tubing are relatively inexpensive.

HVAC is overlooked a lot of the time. Spec builders will ignore it, so you either have to find a great HVAC company or do a lot of the thinking yourself. For example, make sure you draw/place furniture in every room so you don't end up putting supply/returns on a forced air system under a bed or where you want a dresser to be. Also people seem to place HVAC after a floorplan is done, sometimes putting the furnace/etc not centrally located in the house. My current house has its furnace all the way on one side of the basement, so my MBR gets a lot more hot air than the rest of the house since it's right above the furnace.

2-story rooms are very inefficient to heat/cool unless that trade-off is worth it to your family

Taking advantage of southern exposure for low sun angles in winter... Same goes for garage placement to not block ^

Weak points are windows, it pays to not skimp when choosing windows. I've had brand new vinyl windows before that seemed straight and were clean, but somehow leaked air around the window seals... frustrating.

We could all build all sorts of passive solar heating walls and elaborate systems to make a home as efficient as possible, but it tends to dominate style and feel IMO

A house is a big, really complex set of systems.

Well stated. I agree with much of what's been said already, and I'll add a few more thoughts:

- A simple roofline will be easy to install, less prone to leaks, and cheaper to replace down the line.

- A simple rectangle shaped house will be cheaper to build /with less wasted material than a fancier-shape.

- Flat land is more efficient than a sloped lot; moving earth is quite expensive ... but, then, you're not going to get a walk-out basement on a flat lot.

- Shorter plumb lines keep you costs down. They also mean that your hot water doesn't have to travel so far (in my current house, the hot water heater is underneath my master bath -- I get hot water in a flash in the bathroom, but it seems that the hot water takes forever to travel the length of the house to the kitchen sink). Shorter plumb lines also mean less space for leaks. I do think consolidating bathrooms /kitchens /laundries is a worthwhile exercise.

- In a two-story house, walls that are "stacked" are stronger /require less engineering than rooms existing above wide-open spaces.

- Heating and cooling is more complicated in a two-story house.

- A front-facing garage can have a shorter driveway, meaning less concrete. It also requires no turn to enter.

- Standard sized "everything" -- appliances, windows, doors -- are cheaper to buy today and will be cheaper to replace in the future, if those items wear out.

- Windows are cheaper /more energy efficient than doors. Of course, you need more than just one door -- you do want backyard access -- but it's more efficient to build a bank of windows with one glass door at the end rather than multiple French doors.

- A smaller kitchen coupled with a larger pantry is an efficient choice. A kitchen is very expensive to build -- cabinets are outrageous, even before you begin pricing stone counter tops -- but pantries are quite affordable, so it makes sense to build a small kitchen in which to work and store most of your stuff in an adjacent pantry.

I think one of the smartest things you can do is learn more about passive solar heating/cooling and the best orientation for a house.

As sprinkles said, in the past people grouped bathrooms together to save on plumbing, but that was in the days of copper. Now with pex it's a heck of a lot cheaper to run lines wherever.

Even things like HVAC isn't as big a deal. Our HVAC will be on one side of the house so it was suggested we run wider lines tubes to make it more efficient to get to the bedroom. The additional cost? Under $200.

Probably the single largest inefficiency is for a custom home owner to not have everything designed and specified before bidding and start of construction. Using allowances only opens the door for cost add-ons, since most allowances never meet the quality of taste of individual owners. Allowing the builder to have "at builder's option", gives her/him the opportunity to do it the way they've found to be the quickest and cheapest for them.

Take the time (and spend the money) to have...everything...designed and specified. It will save you tens of thousands of extra dollars which will be spend once construction begins. And you'll get what you want, the way you want it.

The second largest inefficiency probably is once construction has begun is for consumers to: 1) change their minds; and/or 2) say, "well...as long as we're at it, let's just add this...how much more could it be...?" The answer is more tens of thousands of extra dollars.

Take your time, get it complete and get it right the first time--before bidding and construction. It will solve lots of potential problems. And reduce the strain on your wallet.

"- A smaller kitchen coupled with a larger pantry is an efficient choice. A kitchen is very expensive to build -- cabinets are outrageous, even before you begin pricing stone counter tops -- but pantries are quite affordable, so it makes sense to build a small kitchen in which to work and store most of your stuff in an adjacent pantry."

This is good advice from Mrs. Pete. Kitchens can be very expensive. I've done two Ikea kitchens in the last five years, and I think you can save the most money by just thinking about what you actually need to store in those super-pretty, super expensive cabinets.

The cheapest kitchen I've ever done consisted of a straight run of cabinets, wall to wall on one side of the room. No corners, just a simple straight line. Corners and also exposed cabinet sides (requiring nice wood/finished ends) cost more money. That kitchen had a couple of 5' runs of counter, punctuated by a stove and an ikea farm sink. We were able to pick up some remnant pieces of really nice marble countertops with a bullnose already done, and my husband was able to cut them with his own tools to fit the kitchen. The cut sides weren't as perfect as a fabricator would have done, but I think we spent 200.00 on our marble counters and the imperfect sides are hidden underneath the farm sink where you can't even see them. If you can keep your counter runs short- like under 6 feet, you might be able to do something similar. I also did open shelving instead of upper cabinets, for glassware and pretty kitchen items. All of the large/ugly/utilitarian items are stored in the nearby pantry. If you need an island, look on craigslist to see if you can refinish/repurpose one that someone else is selling.

You've received some excellent advice already.

I'd suggest reading through "A Pattern Language: Towns, Buildings, Construction" by Christopher Alexander, Murray Silverstein, Max Jacobson et al. and "Patterns of Home: The Ten Essentials of Enduring Design" by Max Jacobson, Murray Silverstein, et al.

And when it comes time to plan the kitchen, head over to the kitchen forum and take their advice, including drawers vs. doors in base cabinets.

And when it comes time to plan the kitchen, head over to the kitchen
forum and take their advice, including drawers vs. doors in base
cabinets.

When it comes to drawers vs. cabinets, you have to realize that drawers cost more than cabinets ... but drawers are more functional and efficient. So you'll pay more up front for drawers, but they'll keep on serving you for years and years. In that case, I'd say drawers are more efficient!

But take time to calculate how many drawers you need ... I'm using mostly drawers, but I'm interspersing a few traditional cabinets in places where they make sense. My needs might not be the same as other people's needs, but because I've drawn out plans, I'm sure of them!

Many great ideas!! Good point about a pantry being a more logical place to use as kitchen storage than expensive cabinets! Many good points here I need to reread to take in! Having it all planned out down to the details is wise money saving advice I'm sure. I like the point about a front facing driveway.

My example is probably not a great one because we do plan to use pex.

The book recommendations are great because I'm probably at a good stage to be doing that kind of prepping!

I want kitchen drawer for sure!! And I've been talking with the kitchen forum about that part of my layout. So helpful! My full layout will probably go up here soon too.

Your full layout should go up here before you put up the kitchen layout. Work from largest to smallest.

Shelby ... The fewer corners, zigs, zags, eaves, gables and funky changes
of surface plane you have, the more efficient the build will be. Unless the change of plane makes functional sense (like providing a sheltered entry), don't do it.

BUT: it all starts with building something you can smoothly live in.

The more closely connected related areas are, the less space is
wasted in hallways and traffic clearances. Make a "bubble diagram" of how the rooms need to relate. What MUST connect and what must NOT be walked through on the way to elsewhere. How will people and objects circulate through the house?

http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4351651/beginning-bubble-diagram-for-a-custom-home

Make sure, for example, that you don't need to walk through the toilet compartment to get to the master bedroom's closet (yes, that was seen here), and that the kitchen is not the only route for traffic to and from anywhere (one plan seen here had the traffic to/from the garage, mudroom and laundry going through the aisle where the stove was ... very bad!)

Think circulation and what is the minimum space required for an activity. Don't just assign a room size because you think it's OK or saw it on Pinterest. Figure out the ideal size based on real data. For example, a closet wide enough for two hanging rods and a center aisle for access is more efficient than the same closet with a center aisle a foot wider than needed ... either make it wider for a storage island or shrink it by a foot.

Think public versus private spaces ... dinner guests versus family ... how do they move through the house.

http://buildingadvisor.com/design/floor-plans/circulation-key-to-a-successful-floor-plan/ 

And think about use over time ... will the noise from the dinner party keep the baby awake? Will teens watching a movie keep you awake? Will that just-right nursery and the house planned for toddlers still work when you have teenagers?

And think about special needs: You might not intent to "age in place", but if you break a leg or have a knee replaced, can you live in the house while you are healing?

****************

That's what architects do ... figure out this 3-d puzzle with space and time restraints.

I've got my bubble diagram ready! That article is very informative. Great food for thought!

Closet through the toilet room!? Ah! But admittedly I am considering a plan with a stove in the mudroom walkway... I so far can't find a reasonable sacrifice to make to get it moved.

Virgil: "The second largest inefficiency probably is once construction has begun is for consumers to: 1) change their minds; and/or 2) say, "well...as long as we're at it, let's just add this...how much more could it be...?" The answer is more tens of thousands of extra dollars. Take your time, get it complete and get it right the first time--before bidding and construction."

I agree and want to stress this. My current home was a semi-custom build. Ran into a problem where my contractor SUCKED and every allowance they gave me was the cheapest builder/apartment grade possible. So I designed my whole house/yard/etc, but then after that started and I then went to go pick all my flooring/fixtures/etc out... man did I get screwed. I guess it's another way for a contractor to bid a house "cheapest" to lure you in.

Not every builder does this, but they should be honest and give you realistic allowances per your input. But back to the main point... avoid changes once you pull the trigger. Contractor will change things if you want, but $$$$

Ah! But admittedly I am considering a plan with a stove in the mudroom
walkway... I so far can't find a reasonable sacrifice to make to get it
moved.

Think burn units and reconstructive surgery for the kids ... that makes a lot of things reasonable.

wood/pellet stoves are great, but location is crucial. Need to put it in a centralized location for effective convection. If it's pretty (wood burning) you'll want it in a public area that gets used. Wood is dirty, pellet bags are heavy, you don't want to be walking/carrying too far to feed it... Chimney chases above it, roof penetration location...

I've had two little Thelin parlor pellet stoves. They are beautiful and don't take up much space. You have to vacuum them out almost daily to keep the glass clean and the unit working efficiently. A propane stove is much easier.

The OP is talking about a cooking stove. Not a heating stove.

I wouldn't even consider a plan that had major traffic flow through kitchen workspace, especially if that work space includes the stove. That would be awful.

I don't believe "inefficiencies" is the relevant issue. There are a thousand ways to reduce the cost of a house design for little or no sacrifice in livability or style but they involve complex interconnected trade-offs and require detailed materials and systems knowledge so rules of thumb like stacking plumbing fixtures aren't very useful (its well worth moving a bathroom to keep it from being over your dining room). In my experience (I have spent a great deal of time over many decades discussing these issues with my clients) most homeowners simply can't learn enough to effectively balance livability and cost until they have built several houses and that's if they have a talent for it.

Rather than trying to learn the secrets of good cost effective design in a few month and then throwing the savings away because you didn't have time to select fixtures, I recommend hiring someone who has already been practicing that art for 20 years and preferrably longer with an extensive portfolio to prove it. Since it will not only improve your family's life but protect your investment, its the cheapest insurance you will ever buy.

Rather than trying to learn the secrets of good cost effective design in
a few month and then throwing the savings away because you didn't have
time to select fixtures

Fallacy of forced choice. Why must one of these negatives happen? Is the hypothetical time frame really so rushed?

OK, so it's easy to be a professional in any profession. How long does it take one to be able to learn and successfully perform an appendectomy?

Designing and building a custom home is complicated, but avoiding inefficiencies is simple: do it right the first time--whether it's the design, selections, construction, financing, etc. To this end, take the time to find the right professionals to help in whatever capacity you need.

Best wishes.

I agree that avoiding inefficiencies can be simple and creating a comfortable and attractive house while doing so is a much more complicated matter.

I believe the greatest inefficiency is trying to design a house yourself without understanding the most effective order in which to make decisions and when to backtrack and how to test ideas. It would be a rare individual who could learn that from reading a book or discussing issues online or with friends and relatives. Some of the homeowners on this forum have become quite good at it but I'm still working on it after 7 years of school and 50 years of architectural practice. Ironically, I've learned a lot from this forum since knowledge begins with defining a problem and there are some great problems here. But the most common mistake I see on the forum is the failure to adhere to an effective design process which often creates the illusion that someone has started at the end and then tried to work backwards.

I don't mean to discourage anyone from designing their own house; I'm just warning that the result could be better with more direct professional advice than can be found for free. The internet has brought homeowners an incredible wealth of information but it can be a curse if you don't know how to use it.

Don't
let the tail wag the dog. Trying to buy an generic internet puppy
mill plan, or self design a plain jane box, because it's
''efficient'' is the ultimate in wastefullness. Why not just go buy in a
new cracker box subdivision? There is nothing
cheaper when it comes to new construction. If you want the
new car smell, that's how you get it on a budget. Otherwise,
your money goes further to buy existing.

What
you are mistakenly calling ''efficiency'' is really the ability to purchase value to your family for
the extra dollars spent on building the dream. That means that a degree
of personalization
is important to you. Otherwise, you'd just buy the cracker box. And this
is where the disconnect occurs. If the value
of the build lies in the personalization
of it, without getting costs out of hand, then the absolute best bang for
your buck is NOT going to be a generic puppy mill plan, or a self design.

You
aren't receiving value for the additional monetary expenses to redesign an
already set generic design, for local conditions, or personalized
tweaks. You can't make an off the rack suit fit like a custom one without
rebuilding it entirely.

Nor
will a self design be ''efficient''. Not without years of self
education. There is just too much to know, both holistically, and
microscopically. There is a cost to your family of the hours away from
them for the daily study needed to bring yourself fully up to
speed. Even then, you
don't know what you don't know. And that can have a MUCH
bigger cost to the project than you think.

Construction
mistakes and change orders are what are expensive. Using the right pro to
eliminate most of those on the front end, and give you a better result for the
finished project, is the most cost effective, and highest value return
decision, that any homeowner can make.

If
spending money on a better design up front in order to save money in the
end is an issue, then no one would ever use PEX, or geothermal, or ICF, or
metal roofing. Those things
seem to have more value to many people than the ideas that make them work properly. And
that is a skewed priority.

Puppy mill plans...wish I had said that!