Not only will they curl but they can twist and bow. You could use an engineered hardwood floor. They have interlocking ends and sides and are thin so they won't curl and are relatively light. They have multiple textures and colors and are relatively inexpensive.

Nice looking space. The seams where they would but together should be fairly tight. Where the corners would meet they make a 90 degree trim piece for outside corners. Depending on the look your after weathered barn boards are a good option as well, as they have already assumed there naturalized position. You can even plane them and get a fresh look with some old patina.

You can probably find some barnboards on craigslist in the materials section. Or I think there is company that sells them oh might be able to goole. I saw it a while ago on tv and can't remember the name of the site. Floor boars you can get them at lowes, homedepot or any flooring company

I saw some amazing paper thin veneer at the builder's show that could be laminated over those, but I don't know about lengths.

WOODTIQUE

Contact Jon Sharver for information about our ultra-thin wood veneer: jon@misumaru.com / telephone: 707-290-6262.

I have run into problems like this in the past. After scratching my head for a while I figured it out. If you want the wrap to be seamless just cover the beams with drywall and mud. if you want them to look like wood then have your painter; if they are experienced enough, to do a faux finish to simulate large beams with all the grain and knots included. Believe me if the painters are good you will not be able to tell the faux from the real thing. Muralist are also experienced in faux wood grain.

I would suggest you sand them down and stain them first. you can always wrap them later.

They could be but were they're a engineered beam they would look funny. You could paint them

what if your beams have liquid nails from the old builder who used it to keep up the ceiling. Have tried scraping, sanding and hot gun! would you wrap them or keep scrapping them and then stain them? have you ever used the adhesive wood wrap? I liked the idea of the click floor being used

Problem is using the wrong wood. Dimensional lumber from HD or Lowes is not dried enough and the wood moves as it dries.

You need to find a real lumber yard that sells hardwood lumber that is sold by the liner foot making it usually cheaper. This type of wood is dried and has the correct moisture content to keep it from moving that drastically. Im simplifying here.

A simple 90 seam with a couple corner blocks using Titebond glue will also work.

I also am fairly sure there are Co's out there that sell kits where the boards snap together and are made of engineered wood.