Just found this on the report. Fine loamy
soils. The depth to the clay layer is
less than 20 inches. Surface soil
materials are mostly loamy sands, sandy loams and fine sandy loams to a depth
of less than 20 inches. Subsoil
materials are sandy clay loams, clay loams, silt loams and silty clay loams. A subsoil test for potassium, magnesium and
sulfur would be helpful when making a fertilizer recommendation for these
soils.

Can you post an image of the test and the name of the lab? Different labs, depending on the area they service, employ different testing processes that can give significant differences in results. Also, it is important to have unit labels: ppm or lbs/acre.

Here it is. Measures are PPM. Here is a link to the site. Thanks! http://www.clemson.edu/agsrvlb/interest.htm

Just curious here... why didn't you get the Standard Soil Test, instead of the Soilless Mix Analysis? Regardless of units used you obviously need more phosphorus than zero.

Sorry. I'm not familiar with soilless mixes or the testing methods and procedures used to analyze their nutrient values. If this was a soil sample and not a potting mix sample, then the testing done is very likely not useful as I have never seen a soil test show 0 ppm for a major nutrient as is reported here for phosphorous. I'm on tilt. :(

Hopefully someone here is familiar with this and can help you.

Well I thought that was the best one and now I'm having doubts. I do have a message into the extension department. Thanks for your thoughts.

Clemson produces an excellent, reliable soil test. The issue is probably just with the test that was selected.

Is this an in ground planting bed or a raised bed?

How much organic matter is in that mix (a soilless mix will have quite a lot)?

kimmq is kimmsr

Ground planting bed.

This just in from the Extension service.

http://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag_svc_lab/soil_testing/soil_interpretation.html

Basically,
there are very few nutrients in your sample, but the pH is fine. It
looks like you might have added some lime to raise the pH, and added
nitrate nitrogen.
The levels of P & K are too low. You’ll notice there are 2 charts:
one for a bark mix and one for a peat mix for interpretation of results.

Generally,
only greenhouse growers use this analysis to monitor nutrients and pH
because they are continually running fertilizers through their
irrigation system to
plants, like bedding plants or perennials.

You probably should talk to the lab about the results and see what they recommend. One the face of it, it seems like you need more P and K for sure. Compost will help with that but in a relatively small and slow way. A balanced fertilizer (12-12-12 for example) would have a quicker effect.

The garden did poorly last year. Was that the first year of gardening this area? Did you add any amendments? Without a % organic matter test, it's hard to know what we're looking at - is this brown Carolina soil or has it been amended enough to have a good organic matter level?

If it's low in organic matter, loads of compost will help texture, ion exchange capacity, micronutrients and even NPK a bit. But I still think you're going to need fertilizer at least for the short term.

I did a little research on the soilless testing procedure. I recommend that you have the soil retested and request a standard soil test which will report the information (OM, CEC, NPK, pH, buffer pH, micros, etc.) useful in determining soil fertility adjustment. I won't bore everyone with the reason that the soilless test is not appropriate or useful unless you want a "how sausage is made" explanation.

Thanks for all the advice. I will retest and adjust fire accordingly.