it's a bit shallow, would recommend a minimum 18" inches deep for tomatoes in containers.. also might consider growing a container bush determinate variety. the size of that pot would only support one plant. if you put two, you'll probably be wasting your time.

Not even close to the right size - unless you are growing one of the very compact 'patio' type tomatoes. You can get away with maybe a 5G container for a determinate variety but I'd consider larger just for better growing conditions and less need for almost constant watering in summer. And I wouldn't consider anything smaller than a 10G container for an indeterminate variety but encourage a larger, 15 or 20 gallon size. Indeterminate tomatoes want to grow very large - 6-8' is common - and large plants need a large root system to support that growth that just cannot be accommodated by such a small container.

A 5 gallon container would be the better choice but, as others have said, it's not big enough for a full-size tomato plant. It can be done, but you will put in a lot of work for not a lot of yield. A 5 gallon container would be fine for any of the new dwarf series tomatoes though.

Your other container for lettuce and herbs.

Linda

Agree. Your varieties are huge plants with much bigger root systems. That container might work for one small patio-type container tomato variety, same for a 5 gallon pot. But you will need much bigger ones for your tomatoes. Both deeper and much wider.

The container needs to meet the varietal needs or you'll have to switch varieties.

Dave

The container, volume wise IS ok if you plant just one tomato in it . But as mentioned it is a bit shallow.

FACT CHECK: 12" W X 30" L X 12" D is almost 15 gallons That is more than big enough for one tomato plant. Even if you fill it 80% and adjust for the irregularity in shape, it should hold more than 10 gallons or about 1.5 cu-ft.

Sey

> It's possible, probably would go for cherry than beefsteak size

or just get some dwarf plants/seeds made for containers. i just picked up some Burpee dwarf beefsteaks which grow to around 8-12oz in size. i got them so i can have early tomatoes (they mature in 60 days). i think the size of the pot OP has would be a decent for such plants (determinate).

i found them at Lowes.. HD might also have some dwarf seeds, or plants - which ever you prefer..

seysonn: FACT CHECK: 12" W X 30" L X 12" D is almost 15 gallons That is more than big enough for one tomato plant.

Yes, but shape and surface area matter, too. The shape of that container is going to allow soil to have massive moisture evaporation issues unless you have some kind of automatic irrigation set up. In hot weather, it's also going to overheat roots, IMO. And I think 15 gal is the absolute minimum for the really big indeterminates--but a lot of the advantage of the soil mass is surrendered when you make the container long and shallow like that.

"It's possible, probably would go for cherry than beefsteak size"

Most cherries are indeterminate. That's what I grow myself. They can easily reach 6' tall during the course of the season, if not taller, and I have difficulty in seeing how that size and shape of a container would support of height (and the weight) of a plant that tall. I also grow mine in 20G black nursery buckets - the kind they sell trees in. The root system completely fills the container by the end of the season.

it's not impossible, guess it all depends in how much work one wants to invest. i grew indeterminate cherry tomatoes in 3 gallon buckets. they grew to around 4 feet tall and probably got a few hundred cherry tomatoes from each plant.. i had clusters of at least 30-35 tomatoes. definitely requires daily watering.. if not at twice a day. i used Alaskan fish/kelp pellets and i attribute the growth and results on the fertilizer. the stuff is awesome.

OP shouldn't expect 2 lbs tomatoes, but as i've said before, the pot would be decent for determinate plants.

Cherry tomatoes will still bear fruit in small containers. But the big indeterminate cherries will be seriously stunted compared to their potential and have very reduced yield. They also will have more issues with cracking. But if you just want to get enough for the occasional salad or you're willing to grow more plants to make up for reduced yield and can keep up with the feeding and watering needs, they're more successful in smaller containers than larger fruited indeterminates.

In-ground, my preferred cherry plants can get over 12 feet and very rambling with lots of vines (I generally have a no-prune approach). But my climate, although colder in winter and with a shorter frost-free season, has more warm, sunny days during those frost-free days than zone 8 in the PNW. So I think growth is more robust here. Even with a tall trellis or very large cage, it's a challenge to keep them supported. But in a smaller container, the stress of the cramped conditions will keep them smaller.

Also, as others have been saying, there are many plants that are on the more compact side, including many compact or dwarf indeterminates. So if you don't want to harvest all your tomatoes at once, as with determinates, there are many options for growing in smaller containers like 5-10 gallons.

Thank you everyone for god feedback. I have plenty of seedlings started (first time gardner so got too excited). I will probably go for large containers where I really want to rely on some good yield. But it still would be experiment to see how far I can take at least one plant in these containers.

So what are my containers good for in your opinion ? Herbs (basil, mint, coriander), peppers, radishes or may be peas and cucumbers ?

gorbelly(6b/7a | Sunset 32 | SE PA)

seysonn: FACT CHECK: 12" W X 30" L X 12" D is almost 15 gallons That is more than big enough for one tomato plant.
Yes, but shape and surface area matter, too. The shape of that
container is going to allow soil to have massive moisture evaporation
issues ..

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Right. to deal with that you can heavily mulch with hay, oine straw, pine nuggets etc.

Tomato roots can grow sideway as well as going down.

The other thing is that soil is just a medium that provides nutrients and moisture. When I pull my tomatoes in fall, most of roots don't go very deep.If you mulch there will be lots of roots just under the mulch.

Herbs and radishes will do fine in those planters. Peppers are more of a stretch because they have a larger root system. Its worth a try but they may be a little stunted.

For cukes, forget a vining variety. However there are some bushing varieties that would be well suited.

In the end, of you're limited on space look for terms like "dwarf", "bush", and "patio" and select that variety. There is a huge push right now for compact plants made to support patio and urban gardening. Take advantage! if you need needs good place to start looking. nearly all the AAS winners announced so far this year are patio types.

The container in the photo is commonly referred to as a "windowbox" and is intended for that use - a box hung on a rail or window ledge containing shallow rooted plants such as small container plants, flowers and herbs.

It does no service to the OP, a first time gardener, who asked a simple question in good faith for anyone to argue about if it is possible or not and encourage them to try to grow tomatoes, especially the varieties listed, or other woody stemmed, tap-rooted plants in such a container. Why set them up for trouble and failure when we all know it won't work at all well for a number of reasons?

Change the variety to one that will work better in that container or change the container to one that will work for the plants you have.

Dave

that isn't a "window box" despite looking like one. the dimensions the OP posted say otherwise. it's a patio container. the photo make it seem like it's a gallon size container..

I grow almost exclusively in all sorts of containers and agree that the container pictured will not work well for large indeterminate varieties. If you must grow tomatoes in it, I would stick to micro varieties and throw a few in there - they will do very well. I have many of those very same containers and planted 6 micro tomato plants in one container last season - they produced abundantly and were perfectly content all season long. Most micros only grow 8-10" tall, so there is plenty of room in that container. The container would also work well for root veggies (beets, radishes and turnips, in particular), lettuces/greens, Chinese cabbages and bush beans.

I would look into larger containers for indeterminate tomatoes, at least 5-gallon. I won't get into debate about container size only to say that you should use something 5 gallons or larger. I use a number of 5-gallon buckets each season with outstanding success, much to the dismay of neighbors who grow in raised beds and in-ground, but YMMV. Just make sure you're up to the task with constant and consistent watering (consider drip lines or self-watering containers), plenty of nutrients and lots of sun. Most containers will never be a "set it and forget it" venture and can require quite a bit of attention, so plan to spend time in your garden. That shouldn't be too hard, though, since that should be why you're doing it anyway. :)

At the end of the day, we all have to learn by trial and error. You're not always going to get it right the first time, and maybe not even the second. Much of the joy in gardening is trying something new and waiting to see what will happen.

Cheers!

seysonn: When I pull my tomatoes in fall, most of roots don't go very deep.If you mulch there will be lots of roots just under the mulch.

Tomato roots are documented to spread about 2.5 feet and extend down around 3 to 4 feet. We just never see those roots because nobody is going to dig a 4' hole to pull their plants in the fall. But my large indeterminate plants can be pretty darn difficult to pull out at the end of a season (I am a weightlifter and am not weak), and I can feel a lot of breakage as I do get them out, so I know the root systems are way more extensive than what I see and what comes out are just the thickest and more surface roots.

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Correction: lateral spread of roots are 2.5 feet one month after transplant.

From http://soilandhealth.org/wp-content/uploads/01aglibrary/010137veg.roots/010137ch26.html

"Mature plants have a transpiring surface of 70 to 100 square feet and a wonderfully extensive root system. Usually 15 to 20 major branches spread widely (maximum, 5.5 feet), have very numerous large branches, which usually penetrate deeply, and finally, turning downward, extend into the third, fourth, and sometimes the fifth foot of soil. In addition there are almost countless smaller main laterals. All are so profusely furnished with masses of much rebranched rootlets that the absorbing area is extremely intricate and extensive even beyond the working level of 3.5 feet. A very large soil volume, beginning just beneath the soil surface, is very completely ramified with rootlets."

In my experience, a box that size should be OK for many veggies. I would not plant large tomato plants in it, and it's not big enough for squash or melons or eggplant. But many other things would do fine in it.

I wouldn't plant greens in it not because they wouldn't do well but because greens don't require that much depth, so it's a bit of a waste.

At 12" deep, it could even hold some shorter root vegetables (I find that most root vegetables are rodent and rabbit magnets, so a container is good protection for them, especially if you can raise it above the ground a bit).

Most common herbs will do OK in a box like that. Many spreading perennial herbs like mint and oregano should really be restricted to containers because they can take over a garden and become bullies, so boxes like this are perfect for them.

Just don't overcrowd. I think one of the hardest lessons for me was underestimating how much space mature plants end up needing. In spring, it always looks like there's plenty of space, but things can get really overgrown and crowded by mid-summer.

Hmm. That box/container is 12 inches deep. It is similar to earth box. My raised beds were 11" high/deep. The roots never wen down more than that into the native ground underneath. The roots stay were the nutrients and moisture is.

Dimensions of Earth Box : EarthBox are 29" L x 13.5" D x 11" H.

The OP's box is deeper than EarthBox. 12" W X 30" L X 12" D and almost as big.

Perhaps these photos will give you some ideas of what all can be grown in them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=window+boxes&espv=2&biw=1293&bih=712&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwirqqLhzaHSAhVs8IMKHWZBBl8Q_AUIBygC