"Simple" Mudroom addition

9 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

The current exterior door in the rear of our house (which we exclusively use) opens directly into the kitchen, and with kids and the Seattle weather it's a mess. We have a nice large overhang area over the door that we would like to enclose to store our coats and shoes. The photo is of the rear of the house, but we have a through lot so it faces the street and I would like to make it look decent.

I feel like we can get away with just moving the existing exterior door and leaving the interior open- this will likely be the most insulated part of our 1904 home :) I wasn't going to put any windows in or anything- kitchen gets a lot already. I found a match to the existing siding. But I am open to suggestions. Basically walls with hooks and small storage benches along the sides.

I feel like this is just out of my reach as far as doing it "right"- I'm handy and have framed out basement walls and such but for the exterior door, keeping the weather out and making the exterior look presentable I'd like some professional help or at least guidance.

Should I be calling design/build firms or is this too small of a project? If someone made me a good workable plan I could follow it, but I feel like I don't know enough about exteriors and current weather sealing and insulation practices to do it all myself.

Any other thoughts or ideas? Thanks.

Featured Answer

PRO

BMF Construction

9 years ago

Several things to keep in mind: 1. extend light to the exterior of the door 2. usually better to use an in-swing door to prevent water from entering house 3. Keep siding off ground (codes vary) 4. tie new siding to existing so it is leak proof. 5. Better to keep the concrete floor since it will get wet and muddy. You can probably get a local draftsperson or smaller contracting company to draw something, might be too small for an Architect.

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Comments (7)

geoffrey_b
9 years ago
I don't know what building codes you have - but to make it permanent you would need footings, to attach it to the house.
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geoffrey_b
9 years ago
Bogman - it's not my house!
weedyacres
9 years ago
I like the idea of finding a draftsperson to draw it up, with construction details.

You can also find a lot of how-to stuff with siding, insulation, etc. by asking The Google. For example, "how to join XXX siding at a corner" will likely turn up a youtube video with someone showing you how.

After getting the drawings done, and studying, you can come back here and ask specific how-to questions, with up-close photos, and we can help.
greenlaker7 thanked weedyacres
greenlaker7
Original Author
9 years ago
I like that idea too, and with the current situation in Seattle, this may be my only shot at getting it done before the next big housing bust. It will certainly cost me a LOT less! My only fear with the internet is I get 3 people who live where it hardly rains telling me 5 different ways to do something- but I guess the contractors just pick one way and stick with it anyway. For my basement remodel I go this route. For my exterior, with electrical etc. I am a bit more skeptical of getting what I pay for on the internet. If I could find a good pro to go on retainer and give me advice for $100 an email, I would gladly pay.
PRO
Bogman Design/Build AKA GreenBuiltCottages
9 years ago
Hi Jeff,

As we discussed on the phone. Please provide some closeups of the concrete pad, currently supporting the porch. I would need lateral, as well as frontal.

If you get a chance, please check for a door and 2 windows, which may fit your home's current style. Here are some repurpose/recycling suppliers: Ballard ReUse http://ballardreuse.com/, 2nd Use http://seconduse.com/, Earth Wise Salvage http://ewsalvage.com/.

.I may also be able to bring
you some salvaged lumber from one of our current projects

Cheers,

Adrian
greenlaker7 thanked Bogman Design/Build AKA GreenBuiltCottages
greenlaker7
Original Author
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Thanks Adrian, those are some helpful links. Here's some closer looks at the entryway. You can see the existing pad I'll have to work around.

The rectangular part of the pad is approximately 45" deep x 81.5" wide. The curved part sticks out another 20" at apex. The pad is 5.25" high.

The overhang itself is slightly larger than the pad- it is 64" deep x 93" wide.