Never tried before, but I use heat trace routinely in industrial applications.

Make sure you have GFCI. You need to calculate the required wattage for the cables and pick the right type.

You need insulation if you wrap the heat trace around the pots. It would be quite some effort.

Jon

How cold does it get in winter where you live?

I talked to someone from the manufacturer who says its possible just to make sure the wires don't touch. Going to place the cable directly in the soil. Hopefully the 20 ft length will be enough. Will do some testing before winter and post my results. It can go down to -30C in the winter though mostly it stays around 0.

Is it really necessary to heat them?

I have some potted, and in my zone I never considered heating perennials. Obviously, they need to be hardy enough for the location. What temps are your cedars supposed to be hardy to? What exactly are they potted in - containers & mix?

Most protection I ever did for potted plants was piling fallen leaves around.

Thanks, lots of info to help me plan! I'm not sure they need to be heated but I've put so much into them so far that I don't want to let them go to waste. Will pile sand and gravel on top of the soil to help retain heat. 16" ceramic pots

Jon

Are your ceramic pots freeze proof?

I use mostly black plastic pots of different sizes. Not decorative, so sometimes I use cache pots that I put away for the winter. But I also underplant many plants with trailers, so they mostly cover the plastic...

Using very well draining mix helps. I also tip some pots (mostly hostas) so the water, if any, only pools on one side where I make sure drainage hole is at the lowest point. Freezing cold is one concern but standing water that freezes and then thaws on sunny days is worse IMO. If I loose plant, it is for that reason. I am not sure if sand is good for heat retention if fine, but grit may? I use quite a bit of larger grit and/or pea gravel for top-dressing. My main reason for starting to do this was to discourage squirrels from digging...and I quite like the look. Also keeps lowest leaves from touching soil, and splashing the soil on them. I am sure it also absorbs some heat on sunnier days and slowly releases it after.

you might use the pipe wrap stuff and wrap it around some pipe and sink it into the pot … thinking out loud here, but that might not be a good thing to do because maybe there should be ventilation around the wrap/heating tape ...

Usually with heat trace there is insulation wrapping. Airflow decreases efficiency! =)

The pots came from a garden centre where they sat out all winter so assuming they are freeze proof. Pipe might be good to help with spacing but i think i will use mesh cloth instead. The wire is supposed to be in direct contact with the soil. Its a heavy duty heating wire that is designed to be left in the ground. I'll be interested to see how much power it uses. Will definately have to report back with results.

Update: If you are potting cedars you might as well seal the drain holes because they use alot of water. They are often grown in silty soil that does not absorb water well either, so try and remove as much of that as possible. They won't handle full sun unless they are in a pot that is 2-3x the width of the root bundle. Use the best potting soil you can find. This was an experiment for me and several trees died so I'm bringing the rest inside, I don't think they will handle the winter even with heating cables.

Jon

Drainage is essential, I would not plug drainage hole regardless if you keep them indoors or outside. I don't know what cedars you actually have, but many cedars and junipers are very hardy, to z3 and even z2. There are some less hardy, and they will suffer in your location even if planted in ground. Many perennials in containers need to be watered bit more often, but 'wet feet' needs to be avoided.

Where exactly are you planning on keeping them in? (House? garage? shed?...)

What was the outcome, did it work? I’m thinking of doing this for a moonflower that takes months to mature in Colorado climate. Can’t plant out side till mid-May

Thanks for checking in, I ended up going with plastic trees! lol Even though they cost more than real trees + cables, they just work better for that particular spot.

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Yes, soil heating cables can be used around a small tree planted in a 10-gallon bucket. These cables are typically designed to provide gentle heat to the soil, which can help regulate temperature, especially in cooler climates, and promote better root growth.

However, there are a few things to keep in mind:

1. Temperature Control: Make sure the heating cable has a thermostat or temperature controller to prevent overheating, as too much heat can damage the roots or the tree itself.
2. Spacing: Wrap the cable around the outside of the bucket, ensuring the cable doesn't directly touch the tree trunk or roots to avoid direct heat damage.
3. Insulation: If your bucket is placed outdoors in a cold environment, it might also help to insulate the sides of the bucket to retain heat more effectively. Just ensure the insulation doesn’t block airflow.
4. Monitor moisture: Heating cables can sometimes dry out the soil more quickly, so keep an eye on the moisture levels to avoid stress on the plant.

With careful use, soil heating cables can encourage healthier root growth in colder months!