Weed and feed formulations are generally frowned upon by most professional turf specialists as well as the vast majority of horticulturists. They are an extremely inefficient and expensive method of weed control, they are hazardous to children and pets and they are the primary source of water pollution in most urban areas.

Weeds grow because the conditions for growing a good healthy lawn are not present. There are various ways to correct that but that is really a discussion for the Lawn Care forum. If you can seed and maintain a healthy lawn, weeds will be only very minor problem.

There are a couple of things you can do now to control the weeds: 1) keep them mowed short - if not allowed to flower and set seed, they will eventually decline and start to die out. 2) use a broadleaved weed killer for lawns in a spray formulation according to label directions, or 3) raze the entire lawn and the weeds by applying a broad spectrum herbicide like glyphosate (RoundUp). If you go with option 2 or 3 understand that bare soil - what will be left after the application - is just an invitation for the invasion of more weeds. You will have to cover the soil in some fashion - a thick layer of mulch will work - until it is the appropriate time to reseed, usually in early fall.

Might want to check out the lawn care forum here.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/lawns

Lots if info available over there.

Rodney

Where in the world are you?

What type of soil do you have?

How much organic matter is in that soil?

What is the soils pH?

To grow a good lawn that can help kep0 unwanted (weeds) plant growth the grass needs a good soil base.

Have you had a good reliable soil test done? If not do that. In addition these simple soil tests may be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.