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glib_gw

permanent cover crop advice

9 years ago

I will soon build a new no-till bed (except when harvesting carrots and other roots), 4 feet across and length to be determined (25 to 50 ft), full sun, clay soil, plywood sides extending deep in the ground to stop grass from encroaching (eventually to be replaced by cinder blocks). I want to experiment with a permanent cover crop, so that roots are present in winter and the fungal network is stable, while weeds are minimized and fertilization is biological in nature. In short, something similar to a cottage garden. I will dig it up and drop several rotten logs in trenches, but that will be it as far as amending. Candidates for cover, for which comments are sought.

The no-brain ones IMO

1) daffodils. They are an allium, and I have access to a hundred or so for free. They disappear in summer. I would plant them along the edges of the bed, so i can still plant carrots in the middle. Shallow rooted, mycorrhizal. I considered siberian squill also, but it is too small and I would need to plant it all over the bed, encroaching with possible root crops.

2) Sorrel. Planted along the edges like daffodils. Deep rooted, mycorrhizal, and gives greens very early and very late in season.

3) Chicory. Cicoria Zuccherina di Trieste is a tremendous veggie which I have used under tomatoes for years. it tolerates multiple cuttings and gives you salad leaves for 6 months a year. It has naturalized in my paths, and chicories are generally regarded as soil improvers, being deep rooted, mycorrhizal. it would do most of the covering. Grumolo verde is also a good candidate.

4) Red Giant Mustard. A non-myc, soil breaking, shallow rooted invasive brassica plant, would give me potherb every June. It dies in winter but reseeds readily.


Others considered:

4) mint. I consume mint heavily, and in my experience if you whack it hard every July (harvest) it does not spread all that much. It does not smother other plants either in that state.

5) parsley. Parsley is ideal, with a life cycle similar to mustard above but does not die, my only problem is that I don't eat all that much parsley.

6) Shade ground covers: vinca minor and lily of the valley. Too smothering.

7) Smallage. Too smothering, I have a hard time eradicating it from other beds, even though I juice it and freeze it in large amounts.


That's it. I plan to plant transplants mostly (squash, tomato, cabbage), or large seed (garlic, potato, corn and beans), possibly with a piece of cardboard around the stem to give them a head start. If I need termination to direct seed vegetables, I plan to lay a piece of cardboard or a piece of plywood over selected areas for a season, or perhaps with a vining cucurbita planted thickly. I will probably terminate a fraction of the ground every year regardless, to get root channels for my crops.





Comments (10)

  • 9 years ago

    I'm having trouble envisaging your goal glib. Annual vegetable crops need a certain amount of cultivation and minimal competition for light, water, nutrients and space so I can't see using perennials intermingled with annuals as being successful outside the ornamental garden or full blown permaculture. Conversely, perennial vegetable crops do best in beds where they can remain undisturbed. Or as borders, in which case they aren't cover crops. Wouldn't it be easier to just use mulch?

    btw Daffodils are not Alliums and are actually toxic. Plus being dormant for 8 or 9 months of the year aren't much good at covering the ground. Parsley is a biennial so needs resowing every year. I use it as an intercrop but I would not call it a cover crop. I cannot envisage trying to sow seeds through mint. Seeds need a tilth and no competion while germination. Sorrel makes a fair edging but again, that isn't a cover crop. And it grows into a two foot tall and ever widening immovable clump.


    glib thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
  • 9 years ago

    I had to look up 'smallage'. Wild celery, from which the celery seed spice is harvested. I learned something new today.

    glib thanked toxcrusadr
  • 9 years ago

    Flora, the goal is a functioning biology from the get go in spring. Daffodils are there to feed mycorrhizae, and provide minimal amounts of carbon, and make photosynthesis when other plants are not making it. I think such a system would provide for light for my main crop, since they are all low plants. For water, there are circumstances where a living mulch saves water, generally with deep rooted things such as clover. For nutrients, when I got my soil test I got a recommendation to add I think 50lbs of P per acre. But there are 2000 lbs of P in that same acre right there, ready to be mined. And when it comes to soil structure, this arrangement could provide it, but cultivation does not.

    Parsley, I don't disagree, but there is something to be said about rotating vegetables. Rotations and permaculture don't mix, although I am trying to mix them a bit.

    Tox, I got into juicing because of smallage (I mix it with other greens). And I planted it only once! And it is all over the place now.

  • 9 years ago

    It sounds like what you are looking for is a winter cover crop to hold the bed from late fall to late spring. I use a combination of hairy vetch and winter rye. Plant in September, it come up before I get snow and stays alive and in place through the winter - then goes crazy in the spring. I wack it down when I'm ready to put in potatoes and tomatoes.

    glib thanked Richard Brennan
  • 9 years ago

    Thanks Richard, but for me rye/vetch mature a tad too late and I have discontinued them. The way I am thinking about it, I want what you say (winter crop) but I also want summer mulch. It is much closer in philosophy to an old fashioned cottage garden than a regular cover crop.

  • 9 years ago

    You could try annuals that reseed themselves; dill, fennel, radishes, lettuce. I've got some amaranth (considered a weed) that comes up regularly . . . As far as a winter crop, maybe kale and beets? It's not exactly what you're looking for...

    glib thanked Laurie Mansell Dyer
  • 9 years ago

    you are right Laurie. And I use a lot of dill due to the pickles.

  • 9 years ago

    I love the concept. I think it would work even better if it weren't in a raised bed with sides. A more open perennial garden would allow a diversity of fauna to assist with plant health. When I lay out a garden bed at my new place, I'm going to try to create a habitat for small critters, a rockpile with some native vegetation around it.

    My first thought for a cover crop was clover.

    glib thanked Paul Menten
  • 9 years ago

    Definitely clover should be on the list. I put it in my mixed juices too, so it is a vegetable for me. Alfalfa too. The sides will be needed because a) I don't want grass encroaching and b) after I bury all that rotten wood is going to be higher in there for sure.