Yes I tried for a few years to grow peppers and tomatoes in pots. I always used compost and fertizers throughout the season. I have learned so much information here from different folks. Some have different options than others but all want the same thing in the end. Many say it's a trial and error in the gardening world. My pots always dried out so quickly no matter what I did. I would water before work and come home to dry plants. This year I did two tomatoes in the raised bed with one cucumber plant and I have three pepper plants in their own pots and I am trying a tomato plant in a 5 gallon bucket for the learning process. We will see what happens. I always ended up with blossom end rot on the peppers and not many peppers and my tomato plants would get nice and tall and green but not many tomatoes. Then they would just do the same thing. Dry out everyday before my work day was done. This was after watering good and deep in the am. I needed to do something else to prove to myself I could get a good tomato. That is where the bed came in to play. I loaded the bed with potting soil, soil for raised beds with worm castings and a good amount of compost. The soil is nice and light. I can't make my own compost in the city where I live. No place to do it so I don't mind buying the bagged compost. I used mushroom compost and organic compost mixed together. I have not used any fertilizer yet for fear I would kill the plants by burning them. I have used some miracle grow for tomatoes in the past but I feel that greens up and grows my plants but did not give me that many fruit. I don't think I used it often enough then I was going nuts with the Epsom salt for a couple years trying to prevent the blossom end rot only to learn they have nothing to do with each other. That is all the junk you read on Pintrest. I have found the garden forum and I have read many different things. I ordered a different fertizer from Amazonand I'll try that when I get it. I have no trouble with my flowers in pots. They are always just great. It's the vegetables in the containers that gave me troubles. I have not added the straw yet because I wanted to see if I could add more compost before I lay it down. It has been up and down in Chicago weather wise. 90 to 60. Depends on the day. I know that doesn't help either. It is stressful on the plants. My pots have not been dry since I planted them. It hasn't been hot enough all day for days in a row yet.

In pots water from the bottom that is where the roots are. Watering from the top will wash the nutrients right out the bottom before the season is done.

In the bed you do not want to water the leaves so a soaker hose or other method is recommended. Remove any leaves below the 1st set of blossoms and mulch around the plant to reduce rain from splashing on the lower leaves and reduce disease, remove and dispose of any that show signs of disease.

Don't get excited as they always seem to catch something, it is the fruit you should worry about.

Not sure about why you wanted to add compost. I add compost to the planting hole, if you want to add later I would want it under the mulch and a ways away from where the stem enters the soil. Don't forget plants feed from their root tips and on a tomato plant that can be up to 4 ft away when planted in a bed.

I think one of the most important things when growing tomatoes is consistent moisture. Irregular watering can lead to blossom end rot (BER) and for me was a problem when growing in pots. It was the constant breeze where I live that would wick away the moisture.

<My pots have not been dry since I planted them.>

IME you extremely limit root growth when keeping plants in pots (even peat pots) when in the ground. Which means you will have to get any nutrients for them to feed inside the pot.

If they are still small enuff I would replant them. While epsom salts in the planting hole can help it is water that moves the calcium from the soil thru the plant - so you can have plenty of calcium in the soil yet still have BER.

Water tomatoes regularly and keep moving the watering spot away from the stem as the plant grows. In the heat of summer I water in the morning and again just before sundown. I haven't had BER since my 1st year of gardening.

If you mixed in compost when making the bed not sure why you need to add more now?

I never leave those peat pots on because I do understand that they do not break down. I understand more now about the blossom end rot and that Epsom salts will not help that matter. I went to water this am before work and see a few holes in my pepper plant. There was a small green insect the them so I squashed him. I will get some insecticide soap later for them. It is a lot of work to garden but very good for the sole. More people should try to grow their own fruits and veggies. It is a rewarding hobby. It has been expensive to garden in the city of Chicago for me this year setting up my raised bed so I hope it does well. Thanks to all who give great advise on the forums. I really have read many different subjects and learned many things to do. Some of the things are over my head but I am a quick learner so I will catch on. Happy plants make for happy gardeners and that is my goal!!!

Off topic but it sounds like your previous potted tomatoes may have had too much N and not enough P and K in the fertilizer you used. I have grown cherry tomatoes in pots and they have done very well. Usually with a mix of commercial potting mix and my own sifted compost. A little liquid fertilizer during the summer - I got a free (huge) bag of soluble blue stuff designed for flowers, high P, 20-30-10. Just something to keep in mind. Likely your compost will give them what they need in the ground anyway.

I mulch my tomatoes immediately with a few grass clippings, leaves or whatever I have. They get the blight pretty bad here in hot humid MO. Keeping that dirt off from Day 1 helps. Even a square foot around the tiny plant until you can mulch the whole bed.

I agree with the too much N. I did not know when to add the fertilizer and what kind so I stuck with the Miracle Grow for tomato plants adding it according to the directions. I have bought a different one this year but I still do not know when to add it so I think I will do what I have read on this forum. I will do low doses or watered down every week. I am so afraid to fail this year and really hope that I can and will do better. Reading about all the bugs and disease will make your head spin. Thanks for the advise. It all helps me to be a better gardener.

I don't like to put insecticide on anything in my garden. For me that is another reason to grow my own veggies. It's the only time you will know what has been sprayed on your food. Esp. if the insects are not damaging the fruit. Don't forget we are gardening in their living space. Using insecticides can throw the population out of balance and also kill off the pollinators. Look for natural enemies to keep things in check.

If you aren't doing it get a notebook to write down the good things that are working, things that need to improve, and things you want to try or buy.

Mulching around your plants also helps to keep the soil moisture consistent.

To add compost to a planting bed during the growing season, after a mulch has been put down, pull the mulch aside enough to apply the compost and then put the mulch back in place.

Hi Patti,

Sounds like you are doing wonderfully! Applying straw mulch is the right idea. A couple suggestions.

Mulch - I'm in zone 5 as well and wait several weeks to add the mulch to allow the sun to keep directly hitting the soil to continue warming the soil for pepers and tomatos then add mulch to keep moisture and add organic mater back to the soil.

Compost - Compost should be worked into the soils prior to transplanting however side dressing the plants with compost work well during the growing season. Early on in the season you can used and organic fast acting feterlizer such as fish feterlizer to give them a boost.

As for the bottom leaves gettinging wet, I'd recommend pulling the bottom leaves closet to the soil when the plant it a little older to prevent disease. Building the soil with compost around the stem will allow growth of new roots

Hope this helps!

Thanks Tim

------- www.organicbackyardgardening.com subscribe

Growing tomatoes in 5 gallon pots! No wonder you had such problems.

I have no doubt but that you can do that on a bet or something, but cut yourself some slack---15 to 20 gallon pots.

I grew tomatoes in 5 gal buckets one year while growing the same variety in the ground. The plants in the ground did much better. I think mainly do to stable moisture levels which tomatoes prefer.

The problems I had w/the pails were they dried out daily which led to BER and then when the plants got bigger (they were not the patio variety) not only are they hard to stake, they will tip over esp. when they get loaded with fruit.

That same year I tried the "upsidedown" tomato idea using the same sized 5 gal buckets. Again they dried out daily leading to the BER problem and then when they start to fruit and the plants starts growing down instead of up it needs to be high up off the ground which leads to another problem - just how high can you reach to water the plants? Then you will have water running down the plant each and every time you water it.

I think both styles may have a place if you don't have a place to grow plants in the ground, no doubt. Just be sure to choose a smaller variety plant this goes for vining plants also and if you take even a weekend away, you will need someone to water your plants.

I think we all know no one will care for your plants like you do.

5 gallon root pouches should be big enough to successfully grow tomato plants.

I've grown patio types that were bred for containers and did pretty well in 5-10 gal containers. The cherry type seemed to do the best. I would avoid 5 gal if you can though.