I'm not sure the consensus of opinion is to use slaked lime or CAN, neither alone would be my opinion, because spiking nutrients frequently can cause more harm than good when you don't have clarity on why the condition. I would certainly double check calcium was in my fertilization program/soil which it always has been in my case, and I would attempt to pay closer attention my plants got a well balanced soluble fertilizer initially.

Post pics to give us an idea of the stage of your plant. If it was cold and crappy weather BER can show up on the first and second cluster and I saw that on 2 of 61 plants in the last three seasons. One was a strange heirloom and the other had extremely fast growth and early fruiting and as you say, it outgrew it after two tomatoes, one on the first truss and one on truss #2. The strange heirloom I never figured out had over 75% of its tomatoes with BER right through the end of production .... despite having identical conditions to everyone else and not being elongated or paste type.

Cheers

PC

Do a search on blossom end rot on this site. I think you'll find that the common consensus is not what you think.

I'm with those that think that inconsistent moisture is the problem.

BER is probably the most in-depth topic discussed over the years on this forum and trust me, there is no consensus on lime in any form as the solution to the problem. If it was truly that simple the commercial industry would have adopted it decades ago.

Yet that myth remains alive despite over 25+ years of research on the issue and one reason you have difficulty finding either is the research doesn't support their use.

Can adding some lime in small amounts hurt anything? No. In large amounts? Oh yeah!

Can small amounts actually help anything? Perhaps IF your soil is too acidic and IF your have 3-6 months to wait for it to change things.

Some varieties, especially paste types, are more prone to it. Container plants are far more prone to it than in ground plants simply because it is so much more difficult to stabilize the soil moisture levels as required. But sadly quick-fixes for it don't exist (including egg shells, TUMS, aspirin, milk, bananas, bones, or any of the other claimed "cures".)

Dave

PS: forgot to add yogurt as that one crops up now and then too

Honestly, the best way to 'cure' BER is to get a soil test to learn your soil profile, and make appropriate corrections based on the results. Then, look into the the type of consistent watering that helps tomato plants manage the uptake of calcium. Some tomatoes plants though, simply grow faster than their ability to supply themselves enough calcium to grow early fruits without BER.