Keep watering the dead areas lightly daily. Put a heavy dose of nitrogen over your complete yard 1lbs +. Rake away the dead grass lightly top dress those areas.

Im guessing its probably warm there, so keep the sprinklers running 3 times a week, and use an organic fertilizer every 6 weeks - starting now. Completely dead grass can be raked out with a thatching rake, which will help living runners spread into bare spots. Topdress uneven areas with sand . If you want to speed up the fill in process, seed the area with an improved bermuda type. The newer seed types blend with sod grown types rather well. ' La Prima xd' -available on-line from various sites, is excellent !

Thanks for your response. After I dethatch do I need to remove the dead grass? I'm guessing yes but figured I'd ask anyway.

Yep, remove any dead material......its just getting in the way right now.

But do not rent a power dethatcher, it will tear out all the good stuff

Here's what should happen with new sod.

1. Roll it down immediately while installing to ensure good contact between the soil and the roots of the sod.

2. Water 3x per day for 5-15 minutes depending on the sprinkler flow. All you need is enough water to moisten the soil under the sod, not so much that the soil is squishy. You should be able to walk carefully on it without sinking in.

3. After a week test a few corners of the sod to see if it is knitting in with the underlying soil.

4. When most of it is attached to the soil, start to back off on the watering frequency and lengthen the time. Eventually for the summer in our area you would get up to watering once per week for long enough to apply a full inch of water. At this point you can start fertilizing.

Given that none of that happened, you have to pick up the pieces. Have you checked to see if the sod is attached to the soil in the really dead looking spots? If it is then I would tend toward the deep and infrequent watering described below. You will have to ease into it as your roots are not that deep yet.

I'm not sure Tom's suggestion of seeding will speed anything up. For one you would be seeding an improved common bermuda into a hybrid bermuda. Tom is the lone proponent of that approach. I could be convinced under certain circumstances, but in general, the two grasses look weedy when combined. Rather than do something I would put in the experimental classification, just stick with the TIF you have for now. In addition bermuda seed can take awhile to germinate and come in. You already have the grass and there's no killing it. At worst it is dormant. I do like the idea of using organic fertilizer to get it going. That never hurts.

Here is the watering plan for mature turf. Again, you should ease into this. Watering 3x per week should be a very short term approach for new sod.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.