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mike_ellan

Shed gravel foundation, need membrane?

9 years ago

Hey everyone, we've got a 10'x12' shed being delivered in the coming weeks and we've prepared the site by packing out and grading the land and then we leveled about 15 tons of 1/2" to 3/4" rock varying in depth from 4" to a foot at the lowest downward sloped edge. My plan was to create a pad to further elevate the shed via pressure treated 4"x4" measuring 14'x16' that I'll then fill with the same rock mix. Then have the shed dropped on this pad.
My question is I'm reading all over the place about how people put down a membrane (tarp?) underneath the stone/gravel to prevent moisture from rising up from the earth. Some people claim it's mandatary, some never mention it at all. We are in the pocono mountain area, our land is rock and clay. The site has good sun coverage and airflow so I'm wondering if I need a membrane beneath the pad. To me it sounds like it will actually hold moisture which would seem like more of a problem than a helpful step.
Thoughts?

Comments (5)

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My first question is: With all of this site work will this change the zoning regulations on your shed. ie will you need a building permit. In the NC county we live in, no building permit if it is obviously "temporary" and there is no Electricity to the shed.

    We had our 10'x12' shed delivered. The floor frame is built on the three 4"X4" skids. It is on a slope that varies from about 6" in the upper corner to about 13" in the lower corner. It was leveled on blocks. I have screened the sides with bushes. The air can flow from all four sides as there is no skirting around the base of the shed .

    Personally it seems like you have gone over board on the site preparation, Unless you have a seasonal stream passing near the shed.

    Mike Ellan thanked krnuttle
  • 9 years ago

    Our lot is primarily filled with 15' high rhododendron that are so thick deer take refuge in them because the hunters (even though we back to state game lands) can't access them. It's like a different world under the canopy. The spot was carved out of the edge of the existing house's gravel driveway footprint and catches a great breeze and a lot of sun but beyond it's a wall of growth. HOA and county have rules regarding distance from property lines and building size, we are good on both and is in your case, we can't run electric. That and we cant cut down trees that are X or above higher, nothing had to come down in our case just a TON of rhodes. It sounds like maybe we'll be in good shape without the membrane. Hey did you end up staining or treating your interior or exterior floor in any way? The skids are pressure treated but the 5/8" plywood floor isn't. Thanks again!

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My shed is 2X4 walls with plywood panel siding. The floor is 3/4 treated plywood on 2X8 joist.

    I painted the outside walls with two coats of a good grade of house paint. I painted the floor with two coats of a good grade of of deck and floor paint.

    That was five years ago. I use the shed for yard equipment and access it a minimum of once per week.

    While the outside are still in good condition, the floor is going to need repainting. I considered an epoxy but was told that it does not work on plywood. So when I do the floor I will again use a good grade of deck and floor paint.

    If your shed is not built yet I would see if I could get the floor changed to 3/4 pressure treated plywood. While not is touching the ground it will be exposed to a lot of moisture. Not only ground moisture, but if you are like me spills.

    Also I don't know what tools you will be keeping in the shed, but yard equipment can become quite heavy. My JD with me on it weighs a little over 700lbs. While you may not plan on it, a 10 lb sledge hammer or mattock could fall on the floor and do some damage.

    PS: It sounds like you have a nice lot. We live in am 8 year old house on a wooded lot and are working to have it like yours.

  • 9 years ago

    Put down some heavy plastic as a vapor barrier and forget about it. The time to get some good deck paint on the floor is when it's newly delivered and EMPTY.

  • 9 years ago

    Airflow is key. Worst thing for you is going to be wet mower decks and other internal moisture. Antifungal treatment in the floor paint or otherwise will be a big deal when it start to rot. And personally, I bet the venting is insufficent and I have not even seen it. You probably want 18 inches from grade to floor height for longevity. The height also allows predators to chase away critters. If you can spray under it, you can get decades of use out of it.