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kcandmilo

Irrigation questions

9 years ago

It's 103 today! 103!! We think it's a warm year if we get to 80s in June! Usually it takes till August to climb into the 90s!

Anyway, I was wondering how to figure out how much water my trees need every month. Four (a sweet lime, 2 Meyers, and a Navel) are 5 ish years in the ground, about 5 to 6 feet tall. They have tree bubblers, three about a foot away from the trunk for each tree, equidistant. Our sprinkler installer had told me to water them for 20 minutes twice a week. I have no idea what the output on the bubblers is, but when I set the sprinklers for 45 minutes, I think the ground became super wet and I got the amber sap thing that people thought might be soggy roots.

Four of the trees (Australian finger lime, calamondin, rangpur lime and key lime) are about two feet tall, and probably two years old, maybe. They have drip irrigation that runs to the base, and I have pinned them in place about 1 foot away from the trunk, two to a tree.

I also water them with 5 gallons of fertilized water once a week or so. Normally, we live in the land of perfect weather. Winter highs of 50 lows of 30s, spring highs of 65, lows of 40s, summer highs in 80s/90s, lows in upper 50s, early fall highs in 90s/100s, lows in 50s. Plus we rarely stay hot for more than three days in a row, the bay area's natural air conditioning kicks in with the marine layer dropping temps back down again. (All bets off for this year which seems unusually warm).

Any estimate of how much/how long I should water them at least from now till September would be greatly appreciated! I do realize this may not be answerable, but even your guess would be better than my hit or miss methods!

KC


Comments (26)

  • 9 years ago

    If you want guaranteed knowledge of watering quantity and depth, look into irrigation tensiometers.

    kcandmilo thanked Matt
  • 9 years ago

    Wow...that is hot! And Evan...even hotter!! Stay cool and hydrated guys!

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks, Evan! I actually don't think I have seen cupped leaves, so I am guessing they were doing fine on the 20 minutes twice a week! But thank you so much for the feedback! Matt, umm, I am so technically challenged, I don't even know what you are talking about :).

    Laura, my doggo sat down mid walk and refused to walk any further at 8:00 in the morning! I had to bribe him all the way home with treats! 70 pounds of fluff was too much to lug home! Here's a pic of my furbaby on strike for you!

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a dozen plants that are small, like 1-4 feet tall and a foot wide. Basically one year olds. In Phoenix so 110-120 degrees this time of the year. I water twice a week at 16 gallons at a time per plant at a rate of 2 gallons per hour on a drip.

    You need to keep an eye on them for sure but I personally won't fall victim to paranoia. Watering every day regardless of why will only cause shallow root growth and make them even more addicted to constant watering.

    if you water deep enough the trees will be fine. Assuming they aren't already addicted to shallow watering

    kcandmilo thanked pip313
  • 9 years ago
    Pip, they have been on twenty minutes twice a week until now! Then again, I didn't know about fertilizing until this year! Now that my trees are finally flowering and fruiting, and I wondered if the heavier rains meant that I had also underwatered the trees!
  • 9 years ago

    I think you are pretty close to what you need. Keep an eye on things closely though. My in ground fruit trees all get 4 gallons over one hour, once a week through drip. Once it gets over 95 or so, I supplement that with another 20 minutes mid week. That 20 minutes will go 4 feet down in my soil.

    kcandmilo thanked fireballsocal
  • 9 years ago

    Thank you! Hearing it in timing helps, even though I don't know the flow rate of my bubblers, I am getting a better idea thanks to your feedback!

  • 9 years ago

    KC, there is some really good advice posted above... don't sweat the details, but do listen to your trees!

    You can measure the amount your drip emits by placing a saucer or container underneath one or more of them... and knowing the time, you can do the math.

    Whatever the actual amounts, you will need to figure out what your individual landscape zones / trees need; and especially through the heat waves. As far as how often, I initially made the error of irrigating too little... and that has come back to bite me badly. In my landscapes, I have noticed that once the young citrus senses a drought / or dries out, it will go stagnant for 6 months to a year. All that great looking new flush may or may not survive. And further growth this season is put off until next. And during heat waves (it hit 107F in my yard in Danville yesterday), I will give all an extra spritz daily - - especially anything in a pot.

    You may wish to consider the following when programming or supplementing the irrigation:

    Is there relatively fresh, solid fertilizer in the feeder root zone - and is it organic or quick dissolve (Ammonium sulfate) - if so, you must keep that area moist!

    Are there neighboring or established trees that will soak up the excess - or grab their unfair share of the water?

    Temperature... (during this time of the year, I have NEVER been able to reduce my watering frequency to less than every other day. (It's a daily quick bump for this hot week). [Note, my trees are on gently to 1:1 slope so moisture drains quickly - and in some cases down the mole tunnels]

    There are many other points that can be added... but you know that it all leads back to watching and adjusting / tweaking.

    In my personal experience, the only time you are going to get into trouble with overwatering in-ground citrus in the summer is if you have a soggy, stagnant pool / broken pipe / - or leak near the trunk.

    Good luck,

    George


    kcandmilo thanked uncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)
  • 9 years ago

    George, as usual, you go above and beyond sharing your wealth of wisdom. Thank you for breaking it down for rookies like me.

    1. Is there relatively fresh, solid fertilizer in the feeder root zone - and is it organic or quick dissolve (Ammonium sulfate) - if so, you must keep that area moist!

    Yes to the organic Espoma that I had sprinkled around the base, and that was my next question, does one ease back on feeding during a heatwave like we just had. We hit 104 here yesterday, yikes!

    2. Are there neighboring or established trees that will soak up the excess - or grab their unfair share of the water?

    Yes, and I just planted 3 in close proximity, so I should be more watchful of those, i see.

    3.Temperature... (during this time of the year, I have NEVER been able to reduce my watering frequency to less than every other day. (It's a daily quick bump for this hot week). [Note, my trees are on gently to 1:1 slope so moisture drains quickly - and in some cases down the mole tunnels]

    Mine are all next to or near french drains installed to drain the soil and lead water back to the water table, so will hand water if we have consecutive hot days!

    4. There are many other points that can be added... but you know that it all leads back to watching and adjusting / tweaking.

    I wish I could see what water stress looks like, over and under!

    5. In my personal experience, the only time you are going to get into trouble with overwatering in-ground citrus in the summer is if you have a soggy, stagnant pool / broken pipe / - or leak near the trunk.

    Right? Esp in our low humidity area? Thanks, that's good to hear!

    KC


  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I keep a relatively heavy solid fertilizer load in the feeder root zone all spring and switch to liquid right about now. [my goal is to get the trees to 10-14' asap] Unfortunately, (or fortunately) , I gave all the trees a heavy application of NitraKing (Simplot) 21-2-4 a couple of weeks ago and so I need to (still) be watchful of feeder roots burning.

    For #1 (above), others here on the forum may wish to add their expertise.. but as I understand organics, ... they work slowly and need moisture for all the microorganisms to convert the goo into nutrients, But, I think pose less a risk of feeder root burn.

    Below are a couple of pics takin at 105F yesterday:

    Tango's new flush drooping a bit (some droop in intense sun/heat is ok). You can see some sun scorch on the leaves... with our recent cool temps switching quickly to 100F+, I've got lots of scorch!

    Spring Navel (below) that has not been getting enough water... again in the 105F

    kcandmilo thanked uncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)
  • 9 years ago

    Perfect, thanks! So really I'm just looking for limp looking leaves! The photos really helped! Off to look at mine, we are climbing to 90 degrees, but I think we won't cross 100 today!

  • 9 years ago

    OK, I can see what i think is cupping from the heat now! At least I hope that's what it is. I opened the curled leaves and didn't see any signs of clm inside.

    The pic below is the Mexican sweet lime, hating the heat most.


    The Meyer seems to be coping better...?

    The navel orange seems to be doing ok (the hydrangeas in the back for burnt to a crisp, they were bright with color two days ago!

    The currants in the back got fried too, but here are the lime and the meyer from the front!


    KC

  • kcandmilo thanked uncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)
  • 9 years ago

    Phew!

  • 9 years ago

    120 today, looks like at least one mandarin will die, and they were on a drip all day.


    sometimes there is nothing you can do.

  • 9 years ago

    Mandarins are tough out here Pip, lemons and grapefruits seem to do the best with the heat in my experience.

  • 9 years ago

    Yeah, I should have invested in shade cloth

  • 9 years ago

    How do oranges do?

  • 9 years ago

    Cara Cara navel and trovita do well in my yard. My Valencia doesn't do as well and from what I've read the parent Washington navel doesn't do as well in the desert.

  • 9 years ago

    An edit to the above, my Moro blood orange is trooping right through this heat with absolutely zero signs of heat stress. If you can find one I'd plant it Pip, this little guy is tough!


    Moro blood orange on volkameriana planted 1/8/2017 · More Info

    Evan

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Tomorrow is supposed to be the worst for us. Trying to figure out how I can rig up some shade over the three newest ones. I was actually thinking of moving my patio umbrella to over the plants for one day!

  • 9 years ago

    I've used a patio umbrella to shade plants, too :)



    kcandmilo thanked hibiscus909
  • 9 years ago

    Oh yeah good idea, I forgot I've seen people say they have used beach umbrellas for shade on the hot days.

  • 9 years ago

    Two table cloths, two tiki lamps, one tomato trellis, several paper clips to protect the babies from the worst of the overhead and evening sun!

    KC

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