Hi my name is David and I live in Mudgee NSW(Z8b/9a), first off I guess your name is Lena, correct me if I am wrong.

A couple of things to start with, which part of Australia are you in ? This will have a lot of bearing on pruning.

I might not have been as hard on the cane to the right, sometimes we need some older canes to help the plant produce more new canes/branches.

The pruned parent plant isn't bad, I would take the top centre cane back to the cane to the left as the top has no stability. When you prune there a couple of things to do in general, look for an outward facing bud and leave the thickness of the back part of your secatuars, not the blade, about 4ml above the eye. This gives the bud some protection, also slope the cut away from the bud. In the first photo from top to bottom, I would cut the third left cane back to a bud facing to the right, about three buds from the union where it is coming from the main stem.

I have to go now, but will fill in the rest shortly

That's actually the name of one of my cats .. my name is Robynne.

in Sydney .. I just guessed the zone was 10, going on the minimum winter temp.

whoops. I thought that as it was really old and grey is should come out. It wasn't very white inside.

So you mean prune back to just above the next cane down on the left, will do.

I don't get this bit, "In the first photo from top to bottom, I would cut the third left cane back to a bud facing to the right, about three buds from the union where it is coming from the main stem."' The first photo is the parent before I pruned it

Hi Robynne, sorry to take so long to get back, work got in the road. I meant to say in the second shot. The one that has been pruned. I would take the top cane back to the second cane on the left side looking at the photo and then reduce the cane below that to a couple of buds facing out wards. My other question is does that wall behind it get hot and which way is the wall facing. Here is a link to the angle and distance from the bud you want to keep.

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19756758_10159202919465556_5297218917247671029_n.jpg?oh=974d7a9132f08315827a77e3e0e41f94&oe=59D050E6

As for the cutting grown JJthe new reddish growth is normal, most new grow th is that colour, apart from white roses which is green. The onlly other thing is in my opinion is if you can leave canes which are about pencil thick as they can support new Spring growth, hope this helps.

Hi that's ok!

So where the yellow papers are?

The wall faces north but gets a bit of shade from a lemon tree, I'm going to prune this back though, and the neighbours jacaranda in the afternoon

what do you think of this advice I read on the web? :

With the early flush of growth on the roses the most important procedure is to prune each cane back to a dormant bud. A bud that has already begun growth will continue to grow vigorously and bloom very little. A dormant, non-growing bud will initiate growth after pruning and will produce an abundance of blooms

also what do you think about this Valencia? I planted it last November but it got badly sunburnt on the front at the base

Since then it put out new growth when I gave it Epsom salts, nothing since then, thin canes. I thought I wouldn't prune it, what do you think? I'm not sure if it is salvageable

Robynne, yes that would what I would do, even the second tape from the top could be shorter.

As for pruning to a "dormant" bud, that is fine if the plant goes "dormant", Sydney doesn't quite go "dormant", if you prune to a dormant bud the plant might be very short.

I am doing a pruning demostration next weekend and I shall add some photos of before and after, the following weekend I do two large gardens and will also show before and after shots. At present we have had minus mornings all week, this morning was -5ish, tomorrow will even be lower with a predicted -4. so what I am saying is the plants have not had a long period of Winter freeze to make them dormant, think along the lines of fruit trees with a winter dormancy period. Why not use this year as a trial, leaving one of the plants that have a young shoot on it and see what happens. There is an old trick which I use, that is leaving some rose later to prune and that gives me more choices to prune to.

Valencia will come back, prune to the pencil shickness idea, unless I am wrong, in the second shot the canes have not had flowers, it is called "blind shoots", this will be fixed after pruning. As for the sunburn, yes it looks ugly, but the plant will survive.

Hope this answers your question so far, let me know if there is anything else I can help with.

David.

Photos would be great, it sounds like you're a professional, where do you do pruning demonstrations?

yes, that's what I was thinking about Sydney climate, I read that some people force 'dormancy' by taking all the leaves off in winter. I love the Mudgee area, we often go out that way for long weekends, Sofala, Oberon etc.

that's really encouraging about the Valencia, I'll give it a prune but it's going to be a short plant if I go down to pencil thickness!!

thanks a lot

David did you do the pruning photos?

I'm really glad I pruned the Just Joey parent - wish I had done it before. It's got heaps of shoots coming out everywhere

The cutting grown JJ is even better - covered in growth, even has a bud already, and there are 2 more basal shoots coming out of the ground. Lucky we don't get frosts here. Thanks for your help!