About one quarter of the way up. Say about 1/2 to 1" or so. Which should be below the rhizome.

How can you have them survive indoors? Mine has summered outdoors in its square plastic box with the lid and has done very well. But now it is getting chilly (live in Michigan) and fall is coming. Am bringing in all the plants now and need to know what to do! I need advice pretty quickly!! Help! Rosie

Rosie, I'm stalking you :0 (side effect of following). And this is only from reading, not experience, because I kill VFTs. However, as a NA native, they require a winter rest, and will decline and die without one. I read of people lifting them from media and storing in slightly damp spagnum in baggies in the fridge over winter. I hope you get an answer from someone with more experience, but you can also probably get an answer from a FAQ on one of the speciality vendor's websites too.

For
VFTs, I drain off excess water from the pots, hit them with a sulphur
based fungicide and place in zip lock bags and pop them in the fridge
for 3-4 months. I occasionally check them (once a month) for fungus
and hit with the fungicide if needed. Late winter around
February/March I take them out hit them with sulphur based fungicide
again and place in a south and west window until night time temps.
regularly stay above freezing then slowly acclimate them to full
outdoor Sun. I've been using this method for almost 10 years with no
losses.

When its dormant this winter put it in a larger pot. Those 2 or 3" pots are no good. Not only do they dry out to fast they don't allow the deep rooted Venus Fly trap to properly set roots. I use at least deep 6" pot,. Just fill the new pot with acidic mix and pull the whole plant and medium out and set in the new pot so that you don't disturb the roots that much. Won't matter much when the plant is dormant in the winter.

The plant can't thrive in that tiny pot. Needs full sun and rain water. Your plant looks ok just doesn't like that tiny pot and it needs full sun. As the days are getting shorter the plant will looked ragged out as it goes dormant. The dormant period can be as little as 6 wks in the deep south, but it must have a cooler, drier, rest period to prepare it for next spring. When the leaves fall off the trees you know dormancy is coming.

Since it is sitting still in its pot, on the top of gravel should I consider it drained? Some of the traps are turning black. Is that bad? It is still also in its clear square container with the lid on. How damp should it be before I put it in the baggie in my refrig? What month should it go into the refrig? And should it be just barely damp in the baggie? Our temps are mid 80's and nite time is mid 60's. Seems too soon to put it in the refrig. I guess I am more than a little confused. Straighten me out? Thanks!!! Rosie

REMOVE THE LID! Re-read this whole thread.

Please don't shout at me again. I am too old for that.

Now,,,,,Not every suggestion works for everyone and no matter who's suggestion I have tried through the years, none have worked. And I mis-typed when I typed lid ON instead of lid OFF.

I do have it in a large square acrylic square container only because I am still debating on which technique I am going to try this time. Rosie

As far as learning which growing or dormant methods work, common VFTs are easily obtained and you can try several methods at the same time.

In my case, many of what tommy says is true of my growing conditions. The only thing I do differently is that my winters are rather mild, so the plants can stay outside for the winter, and don't need to come inside to be refrigerated.

I have read of others in the more northern states also just leaving their VFTs outside, though that can also depend on your climate.

Black leaves/traps just means the trap is at end-of-life and that is normal. As long as you don't also see fuzz or wierd hair growth, which could mean some kind of fungal growth, likely due to having it in too much moisture all the time.