EB also comes in on wind and rain. Solarizing the soil might help a bit, but it's a pretty scorched-earth thing to do for something that may not help at all. Solarizing will also harm beneficial organisms in the soil.

The best thing to do is mulch plants well to keep soil from splashing up onto the foliage and prune off the foliage that is low to the ground. If you have access to good compost, put down a thick layer on top of your soil under the mulch. If you have a recurrent problem with EB, spray fungicide on a regular schedule from the day you plant out to prevent and delay disease. There are many options, conventional, organic, and biological.

If you are vigilant for the very first signs of disease, take preventive cultural measures, and apply fungicide regularly, EB, if it does arrive, is typically very slow moving, manageable, and won't reduce yield much.

Management focuses on total removal of affected plant debris.

I guess next year, I'll plastic mulch after planting. I've been trying to keep ahead with foliar spray and affected parts removal, but I think it's catching up again.

Best control is cultural control. Don't plant tomatoes in the same spot year after year. A 4 year rotation is ideal. Since spores can come in in the wind, it is best to keep the tomatoes treated with a protective/ preventative fungicide.

wish I had enough space for a 4 yr cycle. Just 2 gardens 4'x6'.

Most home gardeners don't have the space to rotate like that. The other measures will help a lot.

As for rotation, sure, it can help some, but in some areas, EB is just endemic. I had EB and septoria in my current garden the very first year I gardened in brand new beds in soil that hadn't seen anything but lawn for decades. In many areas of the country, it's just something you should plan on having to deal with and manage, whether you rotate or not. It's not that big a deal.