Software
Houzz Logo Print
rcranf1

Preparing for Lawn Overseed

9 years ago



So I have started applying round up in my yard in most spots in preperation for an overseed this september with Defiance XRE Elite Tall fescue and HGT KBG. Plan to put down 20 LBS of Fescue with 5LBS of the KBG. I will be using scotts starter fert with weed preventer. Also after 30 days post germination Should I hit the grass with straight Tenacity or is the starter fert with weed preventer since it has the same active ingredient as tenacity work?


Based on my Soil test I a have applied 1# of SOP on 1 AUG, and plan to add another 1# on 1 SEPT. The results also stated I have next to none on organic matter so I plan to start using MilOrganite on 1 SEP. Im not sure If i want to bring in a Compost/manure to help with OM or just use peat moss to cover the seed. either way I will be applying Milorganite to help with the OM. any suggestions?


Being that I have sand for soil I understand that the whole deep and infrequent watering will not work for me, rather I need to pretty much water lightly everyday or every other day to ensure the soil stays moist since sand does not hold water.


As it relates to Fungus should I also place a Fungicide down at the time of seeding?


I am located in NC.

Open to any and all suggestions, Hoping I have learned alot from you all since last year in what I did well and what I really messed up on.

Comments (8)

  • 9 years ago

    Any thoughts?

  • 9 years ago

    Lots of thoughts.

    1. Never heard that deep and infrequent does not apply to sand. Where did you read that? You do need to water new seed 3x per day for several weeks, and taper off to deep and infrequent, but deep and infrequent will work much better than watering every other day. Try it.

    2. Never use fungicide unless you have an active disease going on.

    3. Instead of all that prep you have planned, consider this. Weed seed needs continual water to germinate. If you have weed seeds in the soil when you put the grass seed down, and then water 3x per day, you will get weeds. Or...you could start watering 3x per day now with the intent of germinating all the weed seeds before you put down the grass seed. Water like that for a week and spray with Round Up. Continue watering 3x per day for another week and hit it with RU again. Rake up all the dead stuff and then put down your grass seed. You don't have to worry at all about weeds after that.

    4. Organic matter will improve with the addition of organic fertilizer. Using compost is MUCH more expensive than organic fertilizer. Manure should never be used unless and until it smells like finished compost. It has an earthy smell, not a crappy smell. Always mulch mow to return as much organic material as you can, and use as much organic fertilizer as your budget allows.

  • 9 years ago

    Sorry I missed your thread completely. I'll chime in later this evening.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I recall your soil test. I feel I was a little aggressive on the application amounts for your super sand soil (spoon feeding is preferred)

    Anyway, Put down no more than 1/2 pound of the potassium no later than two weeks before you seed. Skip the Milo for now. Milo and starter is going to be too much. Use just starter with the pre-m at seeding. cover with no more than a 1/4" of peat moss and water multiple times a day but just enough each time to keep the seed/peat moss damp, not soaking wet.

  • 9 years ago

    Ok here's my suggestion. If you want to do KBG with fescue, if would be ideal if you could seed the KBG 5 days before the fescue to give it a head start. The fescue will then take an additional 4-5 days to germinate, giving the bluegrass a 9 day head start which will make a big difference in establishment. I understand that's a hassle, so no big deal if you seed them together.

    In regards to Tenacity, KBG is a lot more tolerant of it than fescue. Fescue will bleach badly at the rates needed to kill weeds, it won't kill the fescue but it will look bad. My suggestion here is to let the starter with mesotrione do the job for 30 days, and hang in there for a couple weeks more until you get to your second mowing and you can start to apply regular herbicide.

    Don't get too hung up on Milorganite and OM, you can't really apply enough Milorganite to make a dent in your OM numbers. It's a good fertilizer though and in your situation with a sandy soil, it will provide the trickle of nutrientis you need. Don't use manure on your lawn in any way shape or form, it needs to be fully and properly composted to make sure the weed seed in it is killed. Roots in the ground is the best way to raise your OM, grass sheds 100% of the root mass in organic matter yearly.

    Finally, since the bluegrass will require frequent watering for a while and it's possible we will have stretches of 90s in September, I would recommend a fungicide at seeding. The HGT bluegrass is coated and has fungicide in the coating, but the fescue will need help.

    Hope this helps.

  • 9 years ago

    Great advise. As always thanks for the help everyone i will be following this advise. j4c11 what fungcide would you recommend go down with the seeds here in nc as i see like u said it may be warmer come this sept. I will also make sure to watch the amount of potassium i put down before seeding.


    In regards to watering daily and not infrequent if you look back at some of my past post. My yard was pretty much lost to its inability to hold water. I did the deep and infeequent and my yard got worse in the summer. as i started to water every 2 to 3 days the little that was not lost started to green back up. It was suggested that due to me having a very sandy yard that i water daily or every other day


    again thanks for all the help everyone i plan on posting the progress of the yard and what im doing in a seperate thread

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks for the reminder about your sandy soil not holding water. Not all sand is the same. Coarse sand really does hold no water, while fine sand can hold water just about long enough. I don't remember you soil test, but if you could stand to put a little more magnesium into it, that might help with water retention. Mag chloride is a liquid salt used for deicing streets in the winter. It is also used to "hold the dust down," in the southwest part of the country. It holds the dust down by absorbing humidity out of the air overnight and making the dust particles damp. Here is a picture showing the dust line on a road where the crew stopped spraying.

    It's pretty obvious where they stopped. My niece's husband manages that road crew, so he told me where to go to see it.