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question on a manolin plant

9 years ago

I bought a manolin plant recently that was one big leaf with a smaller leaf inside. I planted and watered it once and found out the other day that the smaller leaf inside turned to mush. I removed it and the big leaf on the outside looked just fine but it really didn't have much root left. Just a white nub. Other than that it looks just fine. I replanted it but Ii am wondering if it is just a lost cause at this point. Does anyone have any experience with this particular problem? I was thinking since you can propagate sans by leaf cuttings that there might be a chance it would root again.


Thanks



Comments (13)

  • 9 years ago

    I have never grown this type Sansevieria- I have had similar crown rot on others though. It all depends if you removed all the rotting tissue. If so, and you are careful not to get any water in the crown and keep the plant in good growing conditions, it will at some point put out new off shoots. As long as the plant remains healthy, don't give up on it. Don't get impatient either, they can be slow growing. Sansevieria love summer which is when they grow the fastest. At lower temperatures they go dormant or almost dormant.

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks for the response.
    As far as I could tell there wasn’t any rot on the leaf I kept but now I
    super afraid to even water it at all. However,
    I think it might have been the soil I had it in. I ran out of succulent soil so I used just a
    regular potting soil which I have used on my plain old green sans without
    issue. I guess this variety doesn’t like
    it. I have it in a small plastic pot now
    and I am debating on taking it out again and putting it a terracotta pot just
    to be on the safe side. What is weird is
    I have two bantel plants in plastic pots and they are just fine. They are in the succulent soil though. I kind of thought this plant would be
    similar.

    Should I disturb it again or just wait a couple weeks to
    give it time to settle? I would really
    like to get it out of that plastic pot if it won’t make the situation worse. I am really hoping for a comeback.

  • 9 years ago

    Go ahead and repot it- you can check the root health at the same time. What kind of soil are you using? Do you add perlite?

  • 9 years ago
    Ok I will repot it this weekend. I am using shultz catus and succulent soil. It does have perlite in it. Should I add some more?

    Also when I water my plants I water until comes out of the drain holes at the bottom. Should I do that with this one or just lightly water? I am wondering since it does not have a lot of root left.

    Thanks again for the feedback.
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, you should use a fast draining soil. If you like to use perlite, use it at a 50% minimum. If you use it at a 50% minimum you can just soak the pot and let the remaining water drain out of the bottom. Don't place it in full sun and let it develop roots for the next 3 months without disturbing. Water at an absolute minimum during this period, only when the soil is dry. It hasn't got roots so it can't absorb any water, it first needs to develop roots. The Manolin is a slow grower.

    This is mine.

  • 9 years ago
    Nice plant, I really do like them so I really hope it bounces back.

    I will go ahead and mix in the 50% perlite and replant it in the terra-cotta pot. I will also upload a picture of the current root system for everyone's reference.

    I do have it in a north east window that has a sheer curtain over it so I am assuming that is sufficient. Since you have experience with this plant would you say its watering needs are similar to a golden hahnii? I have a couple of those and I have been doubling my water time frame on them based on all the others I have. So currently I water all my sans every 2 to 2 and half weeks. The golden hahniis roughly once a month.

    Thanks again for all the comments.
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hard to say, I'm using a really fast draining soil with a maximum water capacity while retaining a minimum level of oxygen to the roots. In other words, I can water my plants 24/7 without the risk of overwatering. The Manolin is a specie with a reduced number of chloroplast per unit of tissue surface, just like the Golden Hahnii. So if the generation of energy in a chloroplast is bound to an upper limit, the Manolin (and G.Hahnii) is able to produce less energy than a specie with regular chloroplast presence. Since it is able to produce less energy per unit time, the production of roots will be decreased by the same timefactor. As will the necessity of water during this time period. But this solely induced by theory and possibly a figment of my own.

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks again for your response. So I went ahead and replanted in a new pot and added the 50% perlite to the soil. I have uploaded two pics which shows what's left of the roots. I am not sure if it really has any roots left or it is basically just a leaf. Either way we will see what happens.

    The leaf that was inside this one was the one with the root and it basically just came out. I didn't notice until it was too late because the mush started from the bottom.



  • 9 years ago

    That has no roots and needs to be treated as a cutting. I would trim off the bottom and then let it callous before putting in a ROOTING medium.

  • 9 years ago
    Ok I have never actually rooted a plant from a leaf cutting before but I am willing to try.

    From what I read about it though variegated plants will revert to green so in case would that happen with this plant?

    Thanks
  • 9 years ago

    this site has information on what propagates true and what looses the variegation:

    http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/Foliage/folnotes/sansevie.htm

    To root the leaf you need a small pot ,best if it is clay, and good potting soil. It is usually best to add extra perlite to the bagged soil, A ratio of 60/40 soil perlite.

    Best soil (commercial that is) is a Cactus mix. Callousing mean to allow the cut on the leaf to dry an heal. The calloused leaf cutting can now be placed in the pot with soil. Keep it Just moist not wet and keep it out of direct sun light. Best if Temperature are above 70 degrees. Be patient it take week and sometimes months to get roots started. If it does not rot in the first 2 weeks- just keep at it, it will work.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ouch ... no roots -at all-. Proceed with caution. Make sure that you’ve removed all rotting tissue. Let it callous for a week so any wounds have healed and sap flow has stopped. Try not to remove to much from the white bottom part of the leaf. This is (maybe still part of) the rhizome and it’s your best bet on propagating a true (variegated) Manolin shoot. I’m not sure if a Manolin will propagate true from only a leaf cutting, I have never tried this. Use >50% perlite, keep moist, not wet and place it in (at?) a shaded location. It can take anything from 2 weeks to 2 months before roots will strike. It’s very tempting to give the leaf a pull every now and then to check if any roots have struck (Yes, I do sometimes after a month ..), but you shouldn’t disturb it too much. All it needs is some time and patience. Good luck!

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