Mold spores exist in the air and soil all around us all the time. They only become an issue for the garden when the climate conditions drift into that "ideal" proliferation range for them - overly warm temps with excessively high humidity. Sound like a garden?

So since we can't control the environment all that much anything you do now to attempt to eradicate them will likely have little effect next year. The key is active treatment of the issue with fungicides both before and immediately as it develops.

But there are things that make the gardener fell better - like bagging and disposing of the plants rather than composting. You can spray down the cages if you wish with a 10% bleach solution but spores will develop on them again over the winter. Even freezing temps won't kill them. They just go dormant.

So IMO it all depends on how much work you want to do after the horse is out of the barn vs. work next year keeping the horse in the barn. ;-)

Dave

Very true that mold spores are a blowin' in the wind. So disinfecting one particular spot isn't going to help much. Also true that freezing temperatures don't kill them. They just go dormant. Who cares about dormancy when there aren't any tomatoes around to infect! But they'll reactivate when it warms up. Mold control is entirely about moisture control.

Jen --- pull and get rid of diseased plants. That's it.

Let deep freezes kill parasites, actual mold (not the spores) and other soft bodied nasties by leaving the containers outside during the cold NJ Winter months.

Spores and viruses are next to impossible to kill (some will survive in deep space in vacuum and -454 F temps). Fire is the only sure kill for them --- also prolonged soaking in 90% alcohol will kill viruses, and a very, very, very prolonged soaking in same will kill most spores. None of these methods work for the garden.

https://www.universetoday.com/111835/why-earths-spores-could-survive-a-trip-to-mars/

Tony

I should add that leaf mold is a common tomato disease in greenhouses, in which the humidity can stay high. Unlike outdoors, in a greenhouse, sterilization of hardware, and removal and disposal of infected plants is certainly a good management strategy. Not much wind blowin' in a greenhouse. Water the ground, not the foliage.

Jen, clarifying the problem may help with control. Gray Mold (Botrytis Fruit Rot) is often confused with fruit rot caused by Phytophthora and if that is the case soil treatment may be considered for next growing season. But Gray Mold is often best controlled by preventing dense foliage and improving soil drainage. Those are management goals for next year.

For Leaf Mold you similarly want to minimize moisture on leaves but Chlorothalonil has been recommended for spray control. You also might want to consider resistant varieties. There are many choices.

So there is lots you can do but not much anymore this season.

Barrie -- you are so right. Disease resistant plants is the major key to getting a great harvest. We control mold and fungi with Copper spray and Neem oil since we don't like to use chemicals.

The amazing Bolseno tomato plant --- our most delicious, prolific and
disease resistant from 30 varieties we planted --- still going strong
after nearly 200 days from planting (4-15-2017 in 18 gal container)! 55+
lbs of production so far and still loading up with fruit. Even this
late some blossoms are setting fruit. Looks like we'll get a couple of
dozen blushing/ripe medium sized tomatoes before it's done, plus lots of
small greenies for pickling.

Tony

10-28-2017 pics: