I think the reg fridge is too cold. and they should not be in moist peat at such low temps in any case. there are special fridges for wine or fermenting kimchi :).. that are in low-mid 50s. that would be much better.

I kept a tuber going for sev years, overwintering just dry in one of those perforated tomato clam-shells in a tall open bath basket. no lid - so some air can get to it. I do large caladium corms this way too. I put them next to my balcony door where is a draft (I don't seal it for winter) - so on the floor level under the low table the temps are about 58-60F. that was sufficient for cool off. or I put the clam shells under the lowest shelf on the floor next to the window (mine are fl to ceil) - so it's the coolest spot. that was ok too.

I keep my amaryllis bulbs bare like that too , bloom ev year for me for many years.

you could also try just keeping them in the dirt in the pot without digging them up until march. when the tubers are small they dessicate very easily when dug up. so keeping them in dry dirt is best in my view. but there still can be dry rot .

I am somewhat lazy since I have so many plants in the apt - the absolute best would be to dig it up in the fall, let it dry for 5 days , dust it with sulfur and put it in dry peat in a brown paper bag, roughly closed and then in some cool spot at mid 50F...but I hate dusting so I never bother ...and loose half small ones...

big ones are ok somehow...

Leaving them in the pot is out. I already put the pot out on the balcony for the winter ... Don't have the real estate to keep the pot indoors.

I do leave my Amorphophallus corms dirtless in an open box over the winter with no issues. However, I was afraid such treatment would be too brutally dry for the begonia tubers,

Have never gotten amaryllis (Hippeastrum) bulbs to rebloom. On the rare occasions I get one, just treat that as a disposable plant.

well, then just put them in dry peat in paperbag or shallow pot in a closed cardboard box, but don't put them in the fridge. you could even put them in the box on the cold window sill, so long as they don't get damp from condensation. it's better if the temps don't rise above 60F.

of course I put my amaryllises outside on the balcony for sev months, otherwise they won't get enough light to rebloom. otherwise I find them quite easy - I have common 'Minerva' from HD, they are very reliable bloomers.

" I have common 'Minerva' from HD, they are very reliable bloomers."

I have tried 'Red Lion' (love that vibrant red!) several times. No matter what I've tried -- including summering outside -- has ever worked out with regards to reblooming. So I've given up on keeping them after blooming. They are incredibly boring as foliage plants. heh

Be challenging to find a place that doesn't exceed 60F for the duration of winter. Though sunny days are exceedingly rare in a MI winter, would think that on those very infrequent times, the temp on a windowsill would be above 60F ... or do you think that as long as the night temps brought it back down that low the corms would remain dormant?

yep, if it's not above 65F (but closer to 60F most of the time) and 55F at night it would be ok, I think. what u got to loose? u can check on it periodically too.

h-mm...how about a window sill with little or no sun? sun does warm things up quickly..

you could wrap the cardboard box in kitchen foil :) or just plain white paper. u can double box it with shredded paper in between - will keep the temp inside more stable, less cold but also less warm.

u can put some kind of picture/screen...smth on the sill to cast a shadow/shield the box from direct sun...depends how many boxes you have how many windows and how much ugly u can stand :)...

I mean... brainstorming here...u can put sideways a roll of matchstick bamboo placemat - like they use to roll sushi in...and wrap the box in a sheet of handsome paper (mulberry -he-he?!..joking..but still..) and tell everybody it's a present from a dear Japanese friend...that u were told not to open till easter...;) :)))))

but don't u have any drafty corners anywhere? with tiniest draft the temp drops quickly when it's 20F outside.

if I have 66F in the room by my drafty NE balcony door on the floor it's 58F.

I measured. but I also have glass to the floor - that assures a steady heat loss too. only one corner stays that low somehow - I keep my ivies and jades there too, they love it.

RE: red lion

perhaps you bought an old tired bulb? that needs the basal plate trimmed? they say it helps to rejuve the bulb. and it needs a good reg feed and tall pot to allow the roots to grow deep...hippie forum is pretty good with info.