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jbrai

Help for a dying Dracaena?

8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

Hi all,

I would love some advice on how to help my suffering Dracaena plant. I bought it this summer and it was happy for a few months. This fall, the leaves started turning yellow/brown at the tips and falling off. (Pictures below.)

I live in a NYC apartment and keep the plant a few feet away from my window, where it gets indirect light. It never gets direct sunlight. The natural light is much dimmer in winter and so I also give it several hours of artificial light. The air is a bit dry.

I assumed that the plant was doing badly because of poor soil/drainage and perhaps poor watering habits. I repotted the plant a month ago into a self watering pot with drainage holes (I don’t use the self-watering feature). I switched the soil to a 50/50 mix of Miracle Gro Moisture Control and Miracle Gro Indoor Houseplant. I also added water crystals. Then I thoroughly watered using distilled water, making sure that the pot drained properly.

The new soil is staying moist for much longer — I watered 2 weeks ago and the soil still hasn’t dried out below the top layer. It’s not soggy, just slightly damp.

This week, it’s started looking much worse. Any tips you have would be appreciated. If there’s a better type of pot or brand of soil for Dracaena, let me know — I tried to get a mix without perlite but couldn’t find any. (I don’t live near a garden store so would prefer links if possible!)

It’s also possible that it’s too cold near the window in winter — I think the ambient temp is at least 65 indoors though. I could move the plant to a warmer interior room but then it would not get any natural light.

Thanks in advance for your help — I’ve learned a lot already from this forum and and really appreciate it!

Best,

JB

Now:



My poor plant in happier days:


Comments (9)

  • 8 years ago

    Hi JB, I am not one who doles out advice, but since no one has responded to you, I will overcome my shyness ;-)

    Firstly, I believe the self-watering pots are, generally, frowned upon.

    Secondly, the soil mix is not good. The MG moisture control has an additive which keeps the soil constantly moist. This time of the year, particularly up north in the cold, one would be cutting back on watering. With this combo of soil, in addition to the self-watering pot, you're most likely keeping the plant significantly more moist than previously. Oftentimes with plants the initial symptoms for too much water and/or not enough water are essentially the same.

    If I recall correctly, Dracaena, in general, require a good draining soil. You mentioned something about trying to find a mix that didn't include perlite? I'm thinking you need much more perlite to assist with better drainage.

  • 8 years ago

    Some leaf loss is natural after repotting, and can also happen when light levels go down in the winter. Those browned tips make me think it might be more of an issue with accumulated salts in the soil, or perhaps too much moisture retention as sydney626 suggests.

    Make sure you're watering copiously when you do, so that extra water is running out of the bottom of the pot -- I think tapla says at least 20% extra, but more might be helpful just to make sure you're flushing the soil well. Tilt the pot at an angle to make sure as much water as possible can drain out of the pot -- you might need to remove that saucer if it is attached to the bottom in a way that impedes drainage. I would avoid fertilizing until May or so, since those soil mixes should have plenty of fertilizer in them.

    Beyond that I'd suggest repotting in a faster-draining medium (like the 5-1-1 mix discussed on this forum), but ideally that's a job for mid to late June. Hopefully the plant can make it until then. You could try using a wick to help with drainage.

    Can you leave the artificial light on longer each day?

  • 8 years ago

    I have somewhat of a similar question.

    So i got some plants in september, i know now an error.. I have a dracaena marginata that has this heavy hardly draining collapsed soil it is in from the shop. Im doing my best to work around the soil it is in for now, and it looks it is hanging in.

    The question: is it worth waiting for june so the plant gets strong before i change the soil, or the struggle till then is not worth it, so i better change the soil right away?

  • 8 years ago

    I buy plants any time of year, and, if needed, repot them at anytime of the year as well. It's best to wait until the weather is warmer, but I'd rather repot a plant that needs it, rather than letting it suffer until then. Dracaenas don't mind being repotted.

  • 8 years ago

    Wow glad I came across this! I also have one and it's doing ok but not flourishing. It was doing a lot more poorly so I moved it to a different area in my sun room... sun being relative as I live in NE Ohio where it's more clouds than sun this time of year.

    I didn't realize how I should be watering it - so do you put the pot in a tub or laundry sink and water it till it runs out the bottom? And do you do this weekly? I've been watering less frequently now than in the summer but never have I given it that much water.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I have these flexible plastic buckets of different sizes that I use. I used to use those stiff, rigid ones, but they always ended up cracking. The flexible ones last much longer, and are easier to move around. When my plants are indoors, I'll move my plants to the sink or bathtub, so they can drain any excess water away after their soak.

  • 8 years ago

    Great idea - thanks!

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Now I don't always water them like this, just roughly once a month, or whenever the soil has gotten too dry. Mainly just during the active warm, summer months. The rest of the time, I just move my plants to the sink or tub and flush the whole pot out and let it drain. Whenever I do water any of my plants, I always flush out the soil. More frequently in the summer, fewer during the winter.