GIGI, in the background there is a eroded branch with leaves but that's because it was cut. I believe all the others are fine.

AMY, I looked up everything I could and scale did come up but I couldn't tell if it was scale or not...or something else thank you.

From your picture, It looks like there are brown raised "blisters" on the leaves. If you can scrape them off with your finger, it's scale. Here is an informative article on the pest. Scale

Some of the brown dots look like they could be scale, but when viewed collectivly, I'd have to say 'inconclusive'; but, as Amy noted, if they scrape off easily with a fingernail, it probably is scale.

The other potentiality is oedema, a physiological disorder that can affect nearly all terrestrial plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.

Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady.

Some things that can help you prevent oedema:

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Increase light levels and temperature

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Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems.

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Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity.

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Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.

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Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants.

Al

My plant had the same issue and after doing research I applied Isopropyl alcohol to a cotton swab and gently swabbed the leaves. I was very hesitant to do that because it is a large, mature plant of 20+ years but felt I had to try. It has been a week since I applied the alcohol and it's still alive and doesn't look any worse - actually better now that it doesn't have that brown, sticky substance on it. I'll take the advise given in the previous post about possibly over watering and watering in the morning hours. Love my Jade!

Brand x from southwest plantscape.

It's a non toxic plant cleaner but it kills scale,and washes of that sticky mess at the same time.

Al

let me disagree with you.

I live in Siberia and all my Jades grow at about 59F (from 40F to 77F) during 9 months in year. And I water them twice in week. And all my Jades are healthy. You can see their last pics here https://forum.sibmama.ru/viewtopic.php?p=94537098#94537098 Only 2 plants have small burns. Because I watered with fertilizer containing a large amount of calcium, while I was sick for a long time. The excess of the hardness salts of Ca, Mg and Fe contribute to leaf burns even at + 77F! Also, these salts have a negative solubility. Therefore, they precipitate at high temperatures and clog pores in plants. At lower temperatures, these salts pass through the pores of the leaves and form such spots. They are safer, more dangerous, when pores are clogged.

Water your Jades with boiled water. Acidify your water to pH=5.5 with citric or phosphoric acid. Or water with soft water only.

And water only in the evening. Because Crassulas have Crassulacean acid metabolism aka CAM photosynthesis:
During the night, a plant employing CAM has its stomata open, allowing CO2 to enter and be fixed as organic acids that are stored in vacuoles.

All the best

Oksana

Regardless of the cause, I do agree with Al about lighting. It looks like the jade could use a bit more light, judging by the internode length compared to the leaf size, as well as the leaf color. The low light results in etiolated branches (long internodes) that are less sturdy, and consequently droop a bit. I would trim those branches back: for example, the branch featured in the picture could be trimmed back to the place where a new branch budded at the top of the picture. A good trim will elicit new growth. Make sure it is well-draining soil too.