I had the same experience recently, with a Noritake teapot that matched my (discontinued) wedding china, although the teapot only cracked badly, but didn't break. What are the sellers thinking?!

I've read that E6000 is good--it's recommended by craftspeople who make those fun pedestals from multiple pieces of glass and ceramic items. I tried it, unsuccessfully, to reattach the stem of a crystal wine goblet, but that's an understandably difficult task. I'd say try it on the broken teapot, then use a plastic cup as a liner, and you'll have a pretty vase for fresh flowers.

PS, a couple of years ago I bought some Noritake dinner plates from an ebay seller. They came wrapped in plastic grocery bags--one bag per plate. Yes, they shattered, and I was given a full refund by ebay.

Super glue...because it works with only a very thin layer and doesn't ooze out, and because it can be removed with a soak in acetone.

I second the super glue suggestion. Have used it to repair a piece of antique Imari.

Use Loctite super glue liquid in the longneck bottle! It works great and can be easily opened and closed for reusing. It sets fast. :)

The reason the high end china repairer was using Elmer's Glue is because it is easily soaked off..... and when dealing with museum quality stuff, no repairs should be made that cannot be reversed.
I have seen fabulous old Chinese pieces repaired by drilling holes and linking the pieces together with metal.
Likely the show was before super glue....which will dissolve in acetone.

Super glue's been around since the 70s, at least...

A few notes about 'super glues'. These are based on cyanoacrylate. This type of glue sets up quickly attaining 50% strength in one minute at room temperature and arrives to full strength in 24 hours.

It will not stick to itself, or if it does, it will be very low strength and the joint will fail. In other words, if there exists a setup film on the surface, a new application to that surface will not work. This means that if one has a failure in joining two pieces, it does no good to try again without cleaning. The old material must be completely removed before trying again, and it is very difficult to completely clean crazy glue off the entire joint surface of broken china/pottery. Take precautions to insure that your first try is good.

Cyanoacrylates melt at 150 F. Do not use on items that may get hot like coffee cups. Its ok for items that will be on display only. An epoxy is a better choice for items that may get hot.

Cyanoacrylate is affected long term by moisture and humidity. It will deteriorate. For permanent joining, a barrier coating should completely cover cyanoacrylate. Again, an epoxy is the better choice.

I have used both epoxies and cyanoacrylates for applying strain gages. The crazy glue type was the adhesive of choice for its quick setting property and where the temperature is limited. The installation can be made to last several years if a barrier coating is used. Epoxy is the best choice for permanent installations with possibly elevated temperature.

For china ware, I recommend a clear epoxy that lapidarists and jewelers use. The difficulty is holding the pieces immobile during set-up.

Pottery can be assembled using Elmer's glue, however, the results are not strong.

Another hint for "Crazy Glue" (cyanoacrylate)

This cement attains maximum strength for surfaces that are chemically basic. Acidic surfaces interferes with bond strength. Before applying the cement, clean the surfaces with household ammonia and wipe dry.