I've got clamps.

I'm picturing the edgebanding, then pressing the whole length of it with another strip of wood (or something) and the clamps holding that on for even pressure.

Am I on the right track?

I was questioning the water based stuff, on one hand. OTOH, I was also picturing the edges sealed with paint or primer.

Thanks for the advice.

Plain wood veneer slightly wider than needed, hot hide glue, flattening with a brayer as you go. Quick trim with a block plane and you're good to go. No clamps, done hours sooner, and it won't come off this century.

Hm.

No treatments for the MDF before application?
Like with PSA, where the surface of wood must be sealed with varnish, shellac or paint?

If I were using PSA on MDF, I think I'd apply a coat of epoxy to the edge. Reason? The MDF is rough enough for shellac/varnish to still be rough when dry.

The key is getting a smooth, stable surface.

Steam iron and pre-glued edge banding. Melt it on oversize and trim with a file. Works perfectly.

That's what I was trying to figure out.
If I use the plain, glue-on edging, it's not necessary?
If I use PSA, I must finish the edge with something like epoxy.

Correct?

And... I've never used epoxy. Any recommendations?
Thanks again!
Christine

I do have some preglued edge banding, along with some PSA. I'd have to get some (manual) glue-on.
Are you saying that the MDF edges would work with the glue-on, even in it's rough-ish state? I've jointed MDF before and it's much smoother than just cut, but still, not perfectly smooth.

I have to tell you I'm loving this veneering trick. I've covered maple cabinet doors and drawer fronts I thought I loved 10 years ago, but had a giant AH HA! moment when I saw the raw grain in white oak. It's so beautiful I can't quit staring at it.

But veneering a wood substrate is one thing. I'm not confident about MDF no matter what people say should be made of it.