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Peace Lilly dying...

8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

I got a bushy big Peace Lilly October 2017.

- It was in a very tiny pot for the plant, needed repotting.

- Also very bushy, lots of leaves, many had hard time getting to light in shadow from the others.

- Many new small leaves couldn't grow and reach the top or the sides of the "canopy".

- When I got it it had 2 big nice flowers, it kept them for about one month. (Meaning it was healthy)

- I had to water it every 2-3 days, I was checking the soil with a stick, also looking at the leaves, after 3 days they were getting all soft and wimp.

- I'd say this condition was getting very very gradually worse. Up until the point where even after watering the leaves kept this wimp, soft downwards state and never bounced back.

- at that point I decided to re-pot it thinking it's root bound.

-got it in a airy mix with plenty of perlite. Re-potted it in a bigger pot, it never got better, it didn't got worse,but it didn't get better. I left it like that to recover for about 45 days. Water when soil dry, using stick to test, and it needed water once every 15 days, kept a lot of water unused.

-after 45 days and no results, and seeing the pot kept all the water, I decided to re-pot it back in a little smaller pot.

-i was right. Repotting it back to a smaller pot I noticed the root ball separate, from much of the soaky soil underneath.

- in the smaller pot for about 2 weeks now and the plant condition is deteriorating, it seems it doesn't use any water..

Is it too late?

Should I give up?

What can I do at this point?

Trim some of the leaves?

Give it a good soaking?

Comments (16)

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Looks and sounds like a combination of root rot from first being kept in a non-draining container, followed by not being watered often enough after being re-planted in a mix that probably dries out too readily for it.

    Never leave any potted plant sitting in water for an extended period. And never allow spathiphyllums to dry out completely at any time.

    Mike352 To thanked Embothrium
  • 8 years ago

    Embothrium(Pugetopolis) every pot was draining. I also checked every time and watered just when needed. Also the plant was showing signs (softer leaves etc) that it needed water, before I watered it. I don't think it was over watering issue.

  • 8 years ago

    you said it was in a very tiny pot for sev months? you should've at least potted it up to a pot next size up (1" extra on the perimeter). In small pots straight from the nursery they need to be watered ev day and even then they sometimes do not get enough water. They are very thirsty plants - when extremely root bound they really need to be dunked in a bucket for 30min at a time to get enough.

    >>> I had to water it every 2-3 days, I was checking the soil with a stick, also looking at the leaves, after 3 days they were getting all soft and wimp.

    even though you were checking with a stick and soil was moist it is possible the plant was not getting enough water due to cooler temperature. when it gets below 65F tropicals stop absorbing water. and if this wet cool condition persists (you repotted into bigger pot), the root rot sets in.

    it is also a very bad idea to let it dry to a point of wilting. when you do this repeatedly eventually it starts declining and dies.

    so it's several things are contributing.


    Mike352 To thanked petrushka (7b)
  • 8 years ago

    petrushka thank you,

    repeated wilting = declining and dies

    I suspected this was the continues gradual decline..

    Do you think I can do something about it now?

  • 8 years ago

    petrushka

    Wow thanks :)

    It needs plant spa :)

    I think the foliage mass is too big, would it help it's survival if I cut some off?

    Should I stick in a bath during the day (morning) so it uses more water during the day and doesn't just sit in water as in night time? Or it's irrelevant?

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    oh, and try to keep it above 70F. and 75F would be better if that's possible.

    actually even better would be to put it on a heat mat or drugstore heating pad, if you have one - roots grow much faster when they are warm. that will also help to evaporate water from wet soil faster. if you go this way - report! you'll need more detail info.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    day or night is relevant if your temps change, get cooler at night. then dunk during the warmer time.

    don't cut off the leaves yet - they will yellow naturally anyway: the plant will extract whatever nutes it can while it can't get them thru the roots...so leave him the leaves 'to feed on'.

  • 8 years ago

    the perlite will float all over if you're not very careful. so prepare to be a patient nurse ;).

  • 8 years ago

    Ok tyvm

    It's indoors so it's 70-75F for sure.

    I will water it with 85F I think that will not be too hot for the plant.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    that's not too hot. and keep it away from cold windows.

    actually it would love if you run a nice hot shower at nite to steam up the tub and then left it there overnight, untented . like in a mini-jungle ;)

    i mean u can turn the shower off for the night :)...just run it to create warmth and high humidity behind the curtain/wall.

    Mike352 To thanked petrushka (7b)
  • 8 years ago

    petrushka

    I should have a heating pad at home, it's with a thermometer. How can I use it with the plant?

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    u'll need to be patient with this opus as i don't want u to either dry up or cook yr plant.

    if it has safety shut-off feature - then it's useless. the cheap old ones stay on forever :). that's the one u want. it has 3 settings: low-med-high. some newer ones heat less at high settings. for small up to 6" pots med is prolly enough just to warm up the root ball gently. your pot is bigger - so high setting will be good. If you're uncertain you can stick a digital probe inside the pot and take readings (like for meat roasts).

    i found on mine that the bottom of soil heats up to 85F . that's very good. tropicals love it. when summer temps are in 95F range - the soil heats up almost as much. so 85F is nice and balmy spring going into summer. 80F is good too. 90F is borderline, so u might reduce the setting to lower.

    you put your plant on it and keep it on it for 2-4 weeks. it'll keep the air very warm around the plant too, but the heat can decrease humidity - what u dont' want.

    the bottom of the pot should be in contact with the surface of the pad, but thin plastic liner is ok. and you'll need it to be able to water the plant now and then.

    so you put the pot on a wide plastic liner, like tall cake cover or half a deep salad clam shell..now! you might start buying those salads finally! :))).

    and pour some water into it, like an 1/2 inch. yes, the bottom of the pot would be sort of in water - but it'll get slurped up very fast. and the bottom of the pot will tend to dry up faster - but that is what you want at the moment, to keep it warm and mod-moist. you'll need to replenish 1/2- 1" of water often. immediately after dunking you don't need that 1/2" inch, since the soil is soggy wet and you need to dry up faster. after a day or 2 you should add water though. u won't need to water from the top and most likely you shouldn't, just from the bottom. but watch it and as the top should never become dry in this set-up.

    alternatively, just drop the big plastic bag (like dry-cleaners) on top of the plant with ends trailing inside the tall saucer - and you'll have a heated terrarium.

    there will be condensation on the bag and it will roll down into the saucer. condensation is ok for now. later after a week or so, we want less condensation, as too much and leaves touching can cause leaf-rot. usually a little steamy is ok. you can stick a tall stake inside the bag to keep the bag high and away from the plant.

    and so we advance from spa to 'steam-bath' facials ;)...aha-ha-ha..LOL.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    to simplify the above u can do it for 'just a few days after dunking' treat:

    just put the pot on some plastic surface (grocery bag will do to protect the pad) on top of a heating pad and leave it there for say 2 days - it'll help to prevent root rot from too much moisture (while u have few roots). and you won't need to water it if it's that short.

    roots on tropicals grow much faster at 80-90F range. and tropicals just love toasty 80-85F.

    it won't be that high, but if you tent you can measure inside the bag - it'll prolly be higher then 75F.

  • 8 years ago

    it's a lot of bother for one plant - but you can do it for any rooting/repotted tropical too in the future.

  • 8 years ago

    petrushka tyvm I will try and post the results :)

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