If I were you I'd wait to see what it does. Somewhere I read that this particular rose takes a couple of years to get going own-root.

Wow, this rose looks like it could be a small climber! It looks healthy at least.

Totoro is there any way it can be trained laterally? Maybe a small trellis? Mine likes being trained laterally. But if not... I would probably cut it, but that’s just me.

I read that this one needs full full full sun. Is it in a full sun spot? Maybe the branches are reaching out for sun?

I think sometimes some roses just do that in the early spring. I'm with Cori Ann. I think I'd chop it back a ways and let new growth come on that might produce some buds.

Totoro,

I have seen the 'Writing on the Wall,' concerning your Madame Anisette, and it said, "shovelprune it."

Why waste your time with a rose that takes, how many years?, to MAYBE start to bloom, and then possibly be a stingy bloomer, when there are so many workhorse roses that bloom their heads off.

Mark Chamblee, the owner of Chamblee's Nursery, eliminated Madame Anisette from his offerings right away. He does not waste his time trying to sell roses that get bad reports. Take his action as a sign. Every time Mark dropped a rose in the past he had good reason to do so. A good rose brings in sales. You don't stop selling a good seller. Of course, Mark is looking to retire, and Chamblee's is up for sale, so now he is not going full throttle in his nursery, winding down.

My Madame Anisette never bloomed, all blind growth, in spite of being given every advantage to bloom.

If a rose blooms like crazy and is fragrant I will go along with any faults it may have like black spot susceptibility, or winter tenderness. If it doesn't bloom or blooms very little, it is history.

My rose blooming season runs from June to September (with flowers still blooming until October, but no new shoot/flower bud growth), that's 4 short months! The show has to be lavish, abundant, and occur quickly. No slow pokes or 'where's the beef,' bushes are tolerated.

Well, that's my two cent's worth.

Moses

I haven’t had issues with my own root one from newflora not blooming, maybe chamblees stock was no good

I would try the horizontal thing and also cutting it. I was amazed last year when my New Dawn rooting would just get one flower at the end of a long cane although it was horizontal. As it was physically in my way I just cut the cane short. Low and behold it started budding like crazy! This spring it's sending out all sorts of little buds instead of one at the end (or none).

Totoro,

Basically, what is being suggested is pegging.

If you peg Madame Anisette, She now transforms from a 3+' tall rose to one about 16" tall with pegged canes potentially extending out 2-3' in all directions from the crown. You will need about 12 sq.ft. to accomplish this, plus have to move her If you have roses planted in front of her so she is not obscured, or move roses growing within her peg zone. All this effort for a rose that has gotten more bad press on the Roses Forum than good. I suspect Madame Anisette, although a winter hardy, ADR winner, needs a long, hot growing season to crank out blooms.

Moses

If space is a problem, one could also grow her around an obelisk of some sort. It trains the canes horizontally while taking up less space. Cori Ann, did you prune yours well when you defoliated? Is it growing around an armature of some sort? Those buds are amazeballs! I'm currently hoping to see some blooms on Florentina and Peggy Martin this year myself.

Pruned fairly hard in January, but I probably left MA a little longer than First Crush and Summer Romance. Here’s a photo as an example. MA is the one to the right of the trellis with the canes trained semi laterally into it. I’m not sure it needs a long season since I pruned and defoliated in January and here it is now in April pumping out blooms. We get some light frost here Jan-April, but not like the colder zones and it probably got very little frost next to the stone wall.

Thanks everyone. So many factors. I probably don't have enough sun/heat for this rose or I got a dud from Chamblees. I will try moving it again to a sunnier spot where it can be trained laterally or more like a climber. But if that doesn't work I will need to toss it.

Waiting for posters with plant pathology/genetics experience and training to comment on the concept of a "dud" rose from Chamblees.

Great news! I think I see 2 buds developing on the longest cane that is reaching around my Japanese maple for more sun. My MA is self-pegging. Maybe I treat it like a ground cover cascading down the hill and the other half as a climber on the fence. At the rate it is growing this tip will shade out my tiny 2nd year Cream And in the corner of the raised bed.

thanks everyone for the encouragement and ideas.

I just wanted to throw in a similar experience with a "dud" rose. I planted Abraham Darby 3 years ago. It grew and grew. Had 6 foot canes first year. It produced multiple basal breaks. The second year I tried to chop it back. I also tried to peg a few canes. Lot's of vigorous foliage, but no buds or blooms. I thought about shoveling it. But due to the praise on here of this rose, I gave it another year. But I moved it to allow more sprawling space. Well after all that I got 1 bloom out of it. It was on a tiny, thin cane laying on the ground due to the weight of the bloom. Well by then I said that's it. Well when I dug it out it had the thickest, weirdest trunk I've ever seen. Don't know if that had anything to do with it. But I will never wait more than 1 season for a rose to bloom - especially a large potted plant. I'm in the same boat as Moses on patience. But hopefully, your rose will continue to bud & bloom.

Blondie thanks for sharing your experience. Was that particular plant grafted or own root?

It was grafted. On to what; I'm not sure. Most likely on multiflora. Every rose I've purchased has bloomed 1st season here. I know that given a year or two they get even better with blooming. I'm also starting with 2-3 gallon plants here, not tiny bands.That's why abe was so perplexing to me.

Blind shoots on roses are caused by several factors but the most common are low levels of light intensity and either too high or too low of temperature. In Southern gardens they are most problematic in the early spring. Regarding the plant development - give it more time. If you got it from Chamblee's Rose Nursery in Tyler (my favorite rose source in the US), the plant was probably not very old and will need 1 year or so to develop a complex root system to support the bloom production that this particular rose will create. Mine went from OK in Year 2 to Oh My Goodness in Year 3.

Mine came late last year from I think Northland Rosarium, arrived with buds and continued to bloom. Pruned pretty much to the ground this winter, coming back nicely with buds all over (except for the deer snacking). Gets decent sun. I read somewhere blind shoots can be caused from too much nitrogen? Or too much something lol! So if you are dumping a bunch of stuff on your roses, or spraying, or whatever, maybe that’s affected flower production. Just a thought!