What's the width of the aisle, with the 27.5" cabinet?

Thank you eam44! I've asked them to talk to their workmen and see what other slides they can use in different lengths. They said that another slide probably won't be as nicely closing as the Blum. I honestly don't care that much as anything will be a step up from what we've had before.

I was tossing and turning all night wondering why if they are custom cabinet makers, they can't figure out how to make a more custom depth to a drawer.

We are touching base around noon. I really appreciate your input, especially when my brain is so sleep deprived and not thinking clearly.

I've also just searched houzz pics of fully integrated fridges and the ones that are flush with a counter just look so right on. The ones that are not look like they were not custom cabinets. It seems a mistake to not have it flush even if it is just a different of 2 - 2.5 inches.

MamaGoose - There is no island - too narrow to have that. The width/narrowness issue comes into play with our table and chairs being so close to the fridge and the pantry.

Well, if there is enough clearance, I was going to suggest pulling the base cabinets out to meet the fridge box and pantry wall, so that you would have deeper counters and more counter space--before making the decision to cut back the wall.

I just measured the drawers in my inexpensive cabinets from Lowe's--the interior depth, front-to-back, is 18", so I don't understand why yours would be only 13.5". I pulled my base cabinets out to 27".

I totally don't understand. Where does the 13.5" come from? And why would there be 5" of dead space, since the slides come in 3" increments? Typically a 21" Blum slide (which is actually 21-9/16" long) is put in a 24" cabinet. It needs an inside clearance of 21-15/16". If you have overlay fronts, then that measurement is to the outside of the cabinet front. If you have inset, then the measurement is taken to the inside of the frame. Don't forget you also lose some space to the back panel of the cabinet.

For a nicer finish, you should pull the refrigerator cabinet forward of the drawer cabinet, so that the counter has a place to die into. It looks awkward and amateurish if the counter sticks out.

And no, Blum does not make the only nice closing slides.

I don't get it either. Isn't 24" pretty much the standard carcass depth? How is it that these guys haven't found slides for them? And if things come in increments of 3", why is 5" left?

I'm not entirely sure what you're describing, though, so maybe it makes sense.

I know some cabinet guys like to make oven and fridge cabinets stick out a little so that an adjacent countertop doesn't stick out past them. Dunno if that's relevant or part of what is going on here....

I just went downstairs to measure my custom drawers in my new kitchen. The usable depth is 21.5". My slides are Blum.

I have a fully integrated fridge with a custom panel and my fridge cabinet does stick out just past the edge of the counter. About 25.75"?

Thanks for your input everyone. I was sleepy and a bit panicked when I wrote this and left out some **very** key information. Sorry.

The carcass of the pantry cabinet was built at 21" and we would have to shorten it to 19" to be flush with the subzero and counter. What interior depth sized drawer do you think I could fit in a 19" deep pantry, with Blum or any other slider?

See pic and these notes to understand why:

* Our house is 165 years old and this kitchen has been added on to by many owners in bizarre ways which we are working around.

* L shaped 100 year old marble countertop over DW, sink, and lazy Susan is about 25.25" deep. It is already a cut and finished counter with attached sink that we are reusing from our former cabinets and won't be changing at all.

* Pantry (left most unit on drawing below, says 'micro') has a cement block wall behind it that juts into the space 6.5", shaded in grey. If we take pantry unit back to 19" it will then be in line with the DW countertop and subzero. (Without fully understanding the implications, I signed off on making it 21" to hav deeper drawers not understanding it would make everything non-flush.)

* There is also a short wall, shown in grey, between the pantry and fridge that has supply and drain pipes to the washer on second floor above. This short wall will be buried behind the face of the pantry.

*We were able to remove the chase - purple box labeled TBD and cut back the other purple area 12".

Please keep your comments coming! I'm very appreciative.

Is this a pantry cabinet that has shelves that pull out and work as drawers? If so could you forgo the drawers and have adjustable shelves so you would be able to utilize all of the space?

Do Blum drawer glides come in 15" length? You'd still have a couple of inches extra space at the back, but will it cost you extra for the longer drawers and glides at this point? Will cutting the cabinets and wall back be a change order, and an extra charge, too, and will it be worth the extra expense?

A couple of issues unrelated to the pantry drawers--1) Will the fridge doors open fully if the fridge surround is 27.5" deep--the same depth as the doors? 2) It might be an oversight on the plan, but there does not appear to be a return panel on the fridge side of the DW.

Is the pantry unit full height or does it have a counter? Are your doors and drawers inset or overlay? Are your boxes face frame or frameless? What is the interior depth of the cabinet? This is impacted by how thick the back panel is and whether or not it is inset into the sides. Blum slides come in 3" increments, but other slides differ. For example, Accuride comes in 2" increments.