First of all you are going to be sorry the first time you mow, and for the next 3 years that you rototilled the soil before seeding grass. It will start to settle now giving you a bumpy yard, and it will continue to settle for 3 years. Then you can think about leveling it.

Secondly, your picture link isn't working. Use the forum tools to post the picture right into your post.

When you write back, please tell us where you live. It could be you are seeing crabgrass coming in. It germinates this time of year and germinates very quickly.

We farm the TifBlair Centipede seed that you used and welcome the chance to be involved in coaching you through establishing your new lawn.

I am guessing that if you are planting centipede, you live somewhere in the south, in zone 7b or warmer, so I'm going to write instructions geared to those warmer climates.

TifBlair can take from 2-3 weeks to germinate, so unless you have a ton of organic mater in the soil, it's likely not the centipede seed germinating.

For the centipede to germinate, continue to keep the seeds moist all day. This may require watering many times a day, but for only 5-10 minutes each time. Water to moisten the soil; if run-off starts to happen, that tells you you don't have to water as long each time.

Since you tilled, you will definitely have weed seeds come up. Seeds that have been dormant in the soil germinate when exposed to sunlight and water. It can be rather scary to see the weeds, but they can be addresses in the future. For now, keep the seedbed moist to promote germination of the centipede seeds.

Regarding the weeds, once the centipede is a couple of inches tall, go ahead and mow your lawn (the centipede will be fine - in fact, it will respond well to the mowing). Mowing will keep the weeds from going to seed and repeating the weed cycle. In a few months (September), once there are several leaf blades on the centipede tufts, you'll be able to treat with a pre-emergent herbicide to reduce winter weeds, then again in February to reduce the summer weed pressure. Pre-emergents are great because they keep weed seeds from germinating, so you don't even see the weeds. Post-emergents are applied after germination, when you actually see the weeds. Keeping the September and February schedule of applying pre-emergents will greatly reduce the weed pressure.

Also, hand weeding is a viable option. It's good exercise and quiet time if you go after a section a day.

Whatever herbicides you use in the long run, please carefully read the label and make sure it's safe for centipede lawns.

We have a lot of instructional material on our website www.supersod.com and a newsletter where we send monthly lawn tips. Please subscribe so we can help you maintain your lawn to perfection. Also, you can correspond directly with me at hthompson@supersod.com.

Like the other participant said, pictures sure do help, so send them too.