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ellenoir17

Help me choose a wallpaper backsplash?

7 years ago
The existing 4" backsplash and pear wallpaper have been removed. The downstairs is getting painted BM Cloud Cover (an off white, see picture of the closet). The backsplash was bowed and allowing water to run down the back of the cabinets so we figured we might as well take them down and caulk the gap instead. But that leaves the problem of the matte paint getting ruined.

This is a TEMPORARY solution until we redo the kitchen in a few years, so I'm looking for something less than ~$200. We came up with the idea of a peel and stick wallpaper but I don't want anything too busy. Having trouble finding something that fits the bill.

Comments (79)

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    It looks like it would be easier to install the beadboard and a whole lot less than the wallpaper options.

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago
  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Pro Patricia Colwell has used Ikea for kitchens.

    About Ikea's butcher block Van Wicklen Design: "You'll get a water stain if the counters aren't sealed properly. We used a product called Waterlox to seal the wood counters." (www.waterlox.com)

    …. doubt you want butcher block, unless you have an island.

    austin kitchen · More Info

    [https://www.houzz.com/photos/austin-kitchen-farmhouse-kitchen-austin-phvw-vp~100214[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/austin-kitchen-farmhouse-kitchen-austin-phvw-vp~100214)

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    that's my basalt tile. basalt is basically hardened lava.

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Go Beth! and you should see her fish pond... Same project photos as the cement tile bath.

  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    lol. i have two of those ponds. it's a ton of work. any one want some koi? lol or some orchids? or plants? i'm too old to do all this upkeep!

  • 7 years ago
    We actually have an Ikea freestanding island with butcher block. We thought about continuing butcher block around the rest of the kitchen, but decided it wasn't worth the cost for a temporary kitchen.
  • 7 years ago

    That's right ElleN. Keep your eye on the future reno. No need to spend $$$ now when you are going to do a whole kitchen just a few years down the road.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    Ellen, the ikea would be something you could do. their cabs aren't too bad.

    Are your boxes in decent shape? would it be worth keep those and have a carpenter make new doors and drawers you could paint?

  • 7 years ago
    Beth, we've discussed Ikea cabinets for the future reno, but they're still out of the budget for now. We haven't even finished furnishing the house yet, lol.
    The kitchen cabinets are trash. They are laminated particle board and it's the laminate on the boxes themselves that is peeling. Pretty sure they're from Home Depot or the like.
  • PRO
    7 years ago

    ellen, what big city are you near?

  • 7 years ago
    Hartford, CT
  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    ok, so just a thought. if yours are falling apart, what if you got some used oak cabs, DIY painted them yourself, and did the pre fab granite, or just a simple laminate? this could look very nice, and actually hold your over for 5 years until you saved enough to really get what you want.

    think about this. near hartford on craigslist, people redo kitchens and take out those oak/brich wood cabs all the time. Newer ones, not 40 year old cabs.

    if you paint them, they can look really nice. (go on Pinterest and look at before and after oak kitchen cabinets).

    so this guy is selling all of these for under 800. give it a week and offer 500. they will take it. You'd have to finagle them like a puzzle, but it's a thought

    https://hartford.craigslist.org/hsh/d/kitchen-cabinets/6623796199.html




  • 7 years ago
    Here are some pics of the cabinets, just to give you an idea what I'm dealing with. All the lowers have this infuriating half depth shelf, so they won't fit anything tall but also aren't useful for storage. And it looks like they were hung by a previous homeowner because they're peeling away from each other.
    Right now our goal is just "lipstick on a pig" until we can scrounge together the cash to do it right.
  • 7 years ago
    One of the pictures didn't upload...
  • 7 years ago
    The pears are gone! And the green! And suddenly I hate my kitchen much less. Forgive the mess, we had the place torn apart until 5am painting.

    It looks like we only need about 30sqft, plus overage. 18" tall, 104" and 114" long. So maybe tile is an option. Will a cement pattern tile pattern be too busy for our small space? My other thought was a plain subway tile. Stupid question, how do light switches and outlets work when you tile? Do you have them protrude further out of the wall or?
  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Not a silly question, at all. Yes, normally you pull the junction boxes out enough to be flush to the face of the tile, but this will be impossible here. If you can get the switch plates attached to the switches, when you tighten them against the tile, it should pull the switches out just enough to be flush.


    If you are eventually going to do a complete reno on the kitchen, why not just leave the backsplash painted till then?

  • 7 years ago
    Why is it impossible? Just because they're already installed?
    How would you end the backsplash on the right side? Kind of awkward because if I end them at the cabinets, it will be cutting the 3 light switch in half. If I extend to the door frame, then I've got a weird top and bottom edge?
  • 7 years ago

    The junction boxes are nailed into the studs. You'd have to tear out the drywall to get to them, then repair it before you tiled. Not worth the effort.


    That three-gang switch on the end is a definite problem if you tile. Another factor in support of just painting till you redo the whole room.

  • 7 years ago

    stick on tiles look for specials


    12"x12" Peel and Stick Backsplash Wall Tile, Long Marble Design, Set of 10 · More Info

  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    those outlet wires give some. you don't have to do anything to the box. once you tile, just loosen the screw that holds the outlet into place and pull forward a bit to bring it forward. not a big deal. when you get to this point, just loosen the top/bottom screws, wiggle it a bit to move it forward, straighten it and tighten. it will be flush

    As for the one on the end, take it all the way past, or stop at the counter. the other option is move the box, but that's prob not going to happen! but, if you want to try it, here's a video showing you how

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS2zdGfcXuc

    in fact, here's a whole other post on that exact question

    https://www.houzz.com/discussions/how-would-you-install-backsplash-around-light-switch-dsvw-vd~3931810

  • 7 years ago

    Stupid question, how do light switches and outlets work when you tile? Do you have them protrude further out of the wall or?

    Not a stupid question. When we tiled the backsplash in our old home, we were able to use spacers similar to these:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Spacers-5-Pack-772453/202937113

    They also make electrical box extenders for single and multiple gang boxes. Similar to these:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-Multi-Gang-Non-Metallic-Box-Extender-2-Pack-B1MGEXT-2/204222412

    Neither of these items are expensive. My husband is comfortable doing electrical work. If you're not comfortable with this, a good handyman should be able to install them for you.


  • 7 years ago

    I would just leave it with paint. I have used Benjamin Moore Aura matte and it can be scrubbed. Just keep a spare can of the paint you used and do a quick touch up every few months. Don't spend time and money on something you are going to tear out in a few years.

  • 7 years ago

    Yeh, I would just paint it, too. That way you can hang stuff on splash. Measuring cups, street signs, whatever. Change it up when you want.

    Or pick up some vinyl coated scrubbable wallpaper. I find wallpaper remnants at thrift stores and garage sales. Makes nice drawer liner.

  • 6 years ago

    There is a beadboard textured, paintable wallpaper. You mentioned it might be too country, but it is very low cost - $20 a roll at Lowes - which might almost do your whole backsplash. I do not usually like faux products, but I have used this and like it.


    Do not do a mosaic backsplash with wood cabinets - the look is too busy against the wood with grain. Whenever I talk to family or friends - they all strongly dislike the look and the mosaics give me an optical headache.

    There is nothing wrong with a painted backsplash. If you are concerned about cleaning it, paint it with a satin or semigloss sheen for easier cleaning. I had a painted backsplash for years - it really never got that dirty. Like you, I have a range that goes up in the back - gives the wall a lot of protection.

  • 6 years ago
    Thanks for all the advice. We looked around for affordable tile yesterday, but the only thing in the ballpark is large subway tiles, and the scale would be off in our space.
    I think I'm back on the wallpaper train, but the issue with the awkward light switch still exists. It's also frustrating to try to find one with a small enough repeat (space is only 18" tall). And to find a pattern that works "turned on its side" since I'd rather hang the wallpaper horizontal to avoid a million seams.

    Are any of these good?
  • 6 years ago

    Your kitchen looks completely different with the 4 inch backsplash and pear border gone.

    If that was my space and I knew a remodel was in the cards, I would just leave the paint. It looks clean and uncluttered now (you had the post about too much stuff on the counters, right?) If you feel like you need *something*, I would take the blinds down from the window and put a pretty patterned roman or roller shade. And maybe a small plant on the island. You don't need anything else.

  • 6 years ago
    Thanks chocolatebunny that was my post too. I agree it looks so much more uncluttered now. I guess I'm just in shock because now it looks almost sterile to me, but maybe once I get the rest of the house set back up again, furniture reset, curtains rehung, it won't look so barren.
  • 6 years ago

    I don't now what your remodel plans are, but you have a really good layout. The fridge / sink / range layout is one of the best for a good flowing kitchen. Your range is a little close distance wise to the sink - switch the right and left range cabinets when you remodel to increase the sink to range area. If you find that the budget for a full kitchen remodel does not materialize and your cabinet boxes are in good shape, then a refacing with new doors might do it for you. Some say the cost of refacing is almost the same as cabinets, but there is a lot of labor savings and it is less in my area - may depend on where you live.

    One thing you could do now that would benefit a remodel later too is under cabinet lighting - at least between the sink and range.

    Also consider now, or when you remodel, replacing the over the range microwave with a dedicated vent hood. It will look prettier and function better. In your remodel, you may want a slightly larger hood then range - the newer trend to get better venting. For example, a 30" range may have a 36" hood. Not everyone has space for that, but consider it, and wait on the vent hood if you think you might go larger. If you do a small island, you could do a microwave drawer.

    I have a similar layout and older wood cabinets - the under cabinet lighting really helps, both in how it looks and and functions - my most functional change. (Pics of my kitchen are in my "my pics" idea book.)

  • 6 years ago
    Thanks for the good suggestions jhmarie.
    I don't really thing the current layout is bad, except that there is no pantry. We've stuck a cabinet to the left of the fridge that works ok but it's not perfect. We also desperately want room for under counter trash and recycling. We have been struggling on how to make space for those two things materialize, given our hard stop to the right is the front door, and the fridge already extends on the left into our tiny dining room.
    We also really don't have enough walking space between island and counter. The two of us both make breakfast at the same time and it's always a disaster. But I think we will solve this in the future remodel by going with a 24" deep island instead of the current 36".
    I really hate the microhood (husband cooks a lot of meat), but we are on a slab so it would be a really big deal to run electricity to the island and I'm not sure where else we'd put the microwave.
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    When it comes time to remodel, post a drawn, measurred layout and pics of your present kitchen - some people here are great at kitchen design - not a replacement for a kitchen designer that actually stands in your space, but some very helpful ideas. My microwave was in the upper cabinet to the right of my range - a microwave shelf cabinet. I got tired of reaching up (short person) and moved it to a cart - very old fashion of me:) Some manage with a small one on the counter. If you find a place for a pantry in the remodel, some place it there - but that is down the road for you.

  • 6 years ago
    Sorry Beth, just now seeing your post. I swear sometimes they take days to show up. It's a good thought, just not sure if it's worth the cash/effort since we're only talking about 2 years here and we've lived with worse. Good food for thought though.
  • 6 years ago
    Well, we lived with the white walls for a while but in the end they were just showing every scuff and speck of dirt, and weren't really going to be washable in the long run.
    We went with a peel and stick tile from Amazon, $160 for the whole project and I LOVE IT. I was pretty pessimistic about it, thinking it would look cheap and fake but I can't believe how real it looks. I never would have chosen such a fun color for something more permanent, but I feel like it makes our kitchen so cheery that I'm really glad I went for it. It even makes our oak cabinets look less horrid. And the reflective nature makes the kitchen brighter too.
  • 6 years ago
    Well, we lived with the white walls for a while but in the end they were just showing every scuff and speck of dirt, and weren't really going to be washable in the long run.
    We went with a peel and stick tile from Amazon, $160 for the whole project and I LOVE IT. I was pretty pessimistic about it, thinking it would look cheap and fake but I can't believe how real it looks. I never would have chosen such a fun color for something more permanent, but I feel like it makes our kitchen so cheery that I'm really glad I went for it. It even makes our oak cabinets look less horrid. And the reflective nature makes the kitchen brighter too.
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Good for you!!! I do know how a temporary solution has an upside - for the future.... that you might do about the same.

  • 6 years ago

    Great job. Looks like a different kitchen.

  • 6 years ago

    Wow! I love that ! The color is absolutely fabulous. Your kitchen looks amazing.

  • 6 years ago

    Can you provide a link to the tile, please? I have to do a backsplash for our unheated cottage over plywood and real tile won't stick. That looks so wonderful, I'd like to replicate your look.

  • 6 years ago
    PS, we also caulked the gap between the tile and counter after we had put up the tile with a white silicon. We didn't want any water running down the back of the cabinets and creating mold.
  • 6 years ago

    Nice! It looks like tile from here :) What a great solution.

  • 6 years ago

    Great job! It's the perfect temporary solution.

  • 6 years ago

    Daisychain01, look on Amazon- peel and stick backsplash tile. Bestseller TicTac tile 12"x12"-10 pack in mist looks like what ElleN has, but not sure. On my computer, it shows the white, but when selected, will give options for other colors. There are many different peel and stick tile to choose from. I was amazed at all the styles and colors. You should be able to find something that will work for your cabin.

  • 6 years ago
    Kitty, yes that's what I used. I linked it above.
  • 6 years ago

    Great, ElleN, it's not showing up on my page yet, but sometimes things are slow.

    Your backsplash looks great! I think that could be used for more than a temporary solution.

  • 6 years ago

    ElleN,

    I used a product on some wood furniture I refinished that might work to help your cabinets. It covers nicks and scratches and adds a bit of sheen. It comes in several colors and is very easy to use. You just wipe it on evenly. Definitely get the cleaner, too, as it will remove any grease and dust before you apply the finish. www.restorzit.com

  • 6 years ago
    thanks, I'll look into it! They're laminate, do you still think it'll work?
  • 6 years ago

    What you may have is an oak veneer over particle board. Restorzit is applied to and adheres to the existing finish so I think it would work. You could call them to be sure.

    I used it on a butcher block veneer table top for my granddaughter's college rental and it looks great.

  • 4 years ago

    I realized I never updated you all on what we went with! We got a peel and stick fake tile and love it. It's still holding up so well after 2 years, and everyone who comes over has to touch it to believe it isn't glass.
    I know fake stuff like this isn't everyone's cup of tea, but it's a nice pop of color in our kitchen until we can afford to upgrade the whole thing.
    This was the one we got:
    https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077H4M3X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WUHiFbKCQ89B8