Your qualified tile professional can assess and remediate the conditions as part of the proper prep that is required. And then point you to a tile that will work with the site conditions. Buying poor quality tile on the front end without help means everything is in the wrong order here.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

Thank you Beth! I am planning on putting tiles in herrringbone pattern. so 1/8" variation is not recommended? does it have to be less than 1/8" of variation?

I did herringbone in solid wood on my floor. did a self leveling as there was a slight dip in one spot. wasn't much more than 1/4". also did herringbone in 4x16 marble tiles. same thing. self leveler w/a 6' screed. I'd make sure you got it as level as possible

obviously this seam from the add-on needed to be filled, but the rest of the floor was also done.

That part of the floor wasn't even that bad, but when doing that layout, it really should be near perfect. Herringbone takes 4 times longer to lay than a regular layout. If you're doing it, please know how to start your layout. (no, you just don't split the tile down the middle and start).

it's hard to explain, but take a speed square on the end of your tile and mark your 45 degree. see it on the blue tape? that's your starting point

most people use the meeting point of the two tiles as their starting point. it will work, but you won't be symmetrical on both sides. since this starting point was a hall, both sides had to look perfectly even. Also notice how he's setting a piece to hold it in place. you'll need to to something similar for yours so as you lay the row, things don't shift. if one tile goes askew, your entire layout will suffer.

Beth - it was very useful tips and feedback you have given to me. I definitely use the technique of triagle to laydow the tiles. the only question I am still struggling with is weather I level my floor. now I have maximum deep of 1/8 at couple of palces and rest of the floor is less than 1/8. most of the floor is level when I checked with 100" staright edge. Only one spot has about 1/4" of deep because of plumbing rough in as seen in the picture which I'll be leveling with thin set while tiling.

and what if I couldn't pour levelquik perfectly to get the floor as perfect as possible and ended up with even worst case than now? I am really confused with this decision.

thank you.

Sophie,

sorry for the late reply. I couldn't see your comment until now so couldn't thank you before. I would love to Hite pro but am running on tight budget and spending more on my project will not give me more yield. plus I would really love to tile the kitchen floor. Because of this I want to do it on my own. I can hire someone for floor prep but like to lay tile on my own as of now. if I come across difficulty I will ask some pro to help me out.

Nishant, if it's that small area, just adjust w/thinset as you lay your tile. I thought you had a large area, like a few feet. if you want to try the self leveler, just get a small bag and mix some up. it will dry within a day or so. just check the bag and it will tell you.

don't pour too much. remember, it's self leveling. it will do the work. you just want to make sure you don't end up w/any high spots. feather it out so it evens w/the surrounding cement. make a screed if you have to.

Yeah it's about 2x2 area which has depression of about 1/4" other than that rest of floor almost 245sf is within 1/8" variation. so hopefully I will get rid of leveling step from the equation and start tiling the 6x24 tile and whenever there is depression I'll either pour small bag of leveling cement or use thin set mortar. Thank you for your help and advice. I really appreciate it.