You didn't say how long the level was you used to check for level, but a 1/2 " is a lot. If you can afford to do it, level first is always going to be best. You also didn't say anything about underlayment. As to squeaky floors, it's the subfloor that squeaks. That has to be dealt with prior to leveling.

Another vote to fix the subfloor.

I used a long almost yardstick type level and about half of it had 1/2” I’m not a professional but just wanted to get an idea of the subfloor differences since they said if I want with a click and lock it would be fine. In other areas there were dips of over 1/4” using the same level. So I think those may be too significant. I had carpet and the floors squeaked so it just had the padding. The flooring I plan on using is a vinyl so there isn’t a underlayment there either. When they said leveling the floor they are planning to replace the entire subfloor with plywood and screw everything down. From a cost prescriptive I can do it if necessary, though it hurts the wallet a bit lol

Your installer is a cheap hack. The first thing he should have done is explain to you that all floors require a flat subfloor. No exceptions. And then he should have charged you for subfloor prep. Which can cost as much or more than the install. Your job costs double what you think it does. Or more.

Hire a new non hack installer who won’t touch the job at all until the sub floor is fixed. And who quotes you a whole project to price to do it.

Well I’m not sure if he feels fixing the subfloor is needed if I used A different flooring type that locks together. They are saying the only reason why I would need a new subfloor is because of how the locking system works on the flooring I have cause it’s just like a press and lock Instead of a click and lock but I would much prefer to fix the subfloor if it really is in bad shape because a click and lock to me wouldn’t sit well even with that type of gaps in the floor

The variations you are describing seem to be too great regardless of the type of floor locking system. These products, especially Hydrocork, are not designed to bridge over valleys. This needs to be corrected first. The fix depends on the cause of the ups and downs, is it due to joist crowning or is the existing subfloor sagging between the joist which can occur when the subflooring is wafer/oriented strand board type. The easier fix if possible is to screw down the existing subfloor and then use a self-leveler to eliminate the variations. If it's due to one or two crowing floor joist then you can lift the existing subfloor in the affected areas and shave down the crown, reset subfloor, screw and then use self-leveler. You can certainly pull up and replace the existing subfloor with say 3/4" plywood, this would resolve sagging between the joists, crowned joists will still need to be shaved down. The approach my be dictated by how large of an area you are dealing with.

When they looked at the old ply wood they say it is a thinner kind that they used in the 80s. I asked about the self leveling and they said they didn’t feel like that would be the best option and they wouldn’t gaurauntee the work on that. (Maybe because it’s my entire 1800 sq ft home???) so if they (contractor and installer) didn’t feel comfortable doing the self leveling that they didn’t think it would really fix the root of the problem the other option is to replace it entirely. This was a big expense that I kinda thought may be needed since the floors are so creaky but just want to make sure I’m making the right decision. Thanks to everyone for all their comments!

And I’m a bit freaking out because I have to make a decision because I’m living with a home down to the subfloor using the kitchen sink as my only sink and the contents of my house shoved to one side of the house ready for flooring LOL

I think with your last sentence you know exactly what to do...I hate to just cover up a problem if the subfloor does need to be fixed. Any advice??? I agree 100% with you. If you suspect that it needs to be fixed it probably does.

Threads like this make me so nervous. I am so sorry you are going through this. I feel like your floor guy is making excuses. You told him you do not want a squeaky floor.

I am a week away from having my tiles ripped out. I have a slab foundation too. My floor people are ripping up the hideous saltillo tile first. I am told... They need to remove the old tile floors which may take a week or more to remove. Using jack hammers to do this. Then they clean and prepare the sub floors, Sometimes with new concrete but always making it level. Once everything is perfectly level and dry they can go to the next step. This is not CHEAP.. I feel like I am spending more on the floors than the rest of my kitchen reno. They determined if it is structurally sound (no cracks, crumbling) and if this is good. They can put in the new floors. I have huge fears that the sub floor is nasty and we will need to move out of the house for a larger reno. Or that it will double what I am already paying. NIGHTMARES...

We had a few different floor people come in. One claimed he could just cover our saltillo tile with a floating floor. It would be cheaper and look pretty. But, I have visited homes with these floating floors that click and squeak. Exactly what you do not want. You may need to get a quote from another floor person. I am hoping flooring gurus chime in so you can get the best information to tackle this project and this installer.

Wishing you success on your floors. ~boxer

Squeaky floors are caused by the joists, sleepers and subfloors, not the wood on top. You will not correct squeaks by just replacing the wood and/or tile. A sturdier subfloor is needed, so you may as well level it while you’re at it.

Have they actually said what the root of the problem is? If they are uncomfortable with a self-leveler then they could glue and screw down an additional layer of say 3/8" or 1/2" ply on top of the existing. Ripping out and replacing 1800 sq ft of subfloor is a lot of work and expense. Is there a particular reason you wish to do your entire home with this product? Why not use a real hardwood or engineered hardwood? I believe these products would provide more value to your home.

"Well I’m not sure if he feels fixing the subfloor is needed if I used A different flooring type that locks together."

Get a different floor guy. ALL floors need a FLAT subfloor. If there are issues currently with the flooring system they are not going to go away. Click lock is not exlir, it still requires a FLAT subfloor.

I wanted to use this product because I have a 95lb dog and had Wicanders corkcomfort before in my townhouse and loved it. I also wanted something that could be in the bathroom so I could have a consistent floor in the house. I know wood and engineed wood may help add value but I wanted something that was better for my lifestyle with a giant dog and a bit warmer on my feet than hardwood and lower matainance.

They have not told me what the root of the issue is. The said that because it’s a lower grade subfloor or thinner that when they would replace it to make it level and use a thicker plywood.

In most circumstances if the existing subfloor is too thin then an additional layer of ply is glued and screwed to the existing. This negates the need to remove the existing subflooring, reduces labour, material cost and installation time.

I was recently reading about this particular floor and the many issues with it popping up. Get a flooring person who is recommended by the company that makes this flooring, if you must have this particular floor. Otherwise, choose a floor that your current flooring guy is comfortable with. I'd still recommend a second opinion. When we had our former house down to the slab, it was determined after demo that the floor was not level enough, so we paid to have it leveled. We never had any trouble with the floors that we put in after that. I'm glad we paid the extra.

Yes I have read the same thing about issues of popping up problem is I don’t think there’s a lot of installers because the product isn’t as popular in the US market and I had to order the flooring from an online company which is a whole other situation. I just didn’t know if the people having problems with the pop-up issue is because of the subfloor because it is thin. I love the looks of it and the part that they did get down where it was flat is sticking pretty good even with my dog walking on the only maybe 4 foot wide section and I’m not having issues because that part is level but as I said I would be willing to fix the subfloor or I’d be willing to send the product back but I don’t know if sending the product back is going to help if the floor is still not optimal. I’ve also read some people that love it and have had issues so I was hoping to get some information from the manufacturer Ellen if that’s a problem but would hate to go through the cost of fixing the subfloor and still have issues with the product

Hydrocork IS a click together floor! So whatever the subfloor issue is, it needs to be fixed. A "long yard stick" like piece of wood is only about 3-4 feet. That is A LOT of height variation over 3-4 ft (1/4" - 1/2").

I'm sorry to say but you need to remove the hydrocork, have the subfloor dealt with PROPERLY (laying a new layer is your best option) and then starting again.

The original installation contract SHOULD HAVE dealt with the subfloor variations. Almost all subfloors have issues. And the one's covered in sheet goods (like sheet vinyl or carpet) have MASSIVE issues (I'm going to guess that was what was in your space originally, am I right?).

And just for fun and giggles, Hydrocork is having issues in the N. American market. It seems the education level of the installers is NOT being dealt with. Hydrocork needs plenty of explanation and know-how. That means a hands-on course. And if the dealers are NOT sending their installers to the courses, then the installers are left in the dark as to how to do this.

In Europe there are NO PROBLEMS with hydrocork....because all the licensed dealers are FORCED to send their installers to the workshops. The installers come back with plenty of knowledge. This system doesn't exist in N. America (or very rarely shows up). So the average N. American installer is TOTALLY in the dark about hydrocork. And it shows.

Get your subfloor fixed or else you lose ALL warranty. And to be clear, only carpet or sheet lino/vinyl can be installed over subfloors like yours. Nothing else.

Have you talked to the pros at https://thefloorpro.com? They are usually quite helpful. There is some discussion there about this particular floor.

Thank you about the info on the hydrocork. Yeah I’ve realized now it’s a bit different. I used the cork comfort in my townhouse before this one and saw it was a different installation but didn’t know it would be that challenging. ( it looks so easy in the videos haha) I had a mix of carpet and linoleum and some gross click and lock in the house and u could feel the waviness of the floor in the rooms that had the click and lock. The installers only got about 4 rows of flooring installed so the good news is it wouldn’t be too difficult to take that up. So it sounds like everyone agrees the subfloor needs resolved. This has been very helpful because as bad as it is to do I’d rather do it right now while my house is down to the subfloor instead of kicking myself later.