Integrated requires a cabinet and a cabinet door to match your other cabs. I don't know of a model with ice and water through the door. What you show looks like a freestanding frig which can be counter depth. It would still stick out a couple inches beyond the counter. An integrated model would be completely flush.

You also need spacers between the pantries and fridge or one or the other will hit each other and damage them.

Yes, you need a cabinet for an integrated fridge. Also, make sure that there’s enough clearance withe the fridge and pantry doors so you can open them with no issues.

I would look at the specific Design Guidelines for the model and brand you have chosen. Sub-Zero has specific Design information available on their website to achieve certain "looks". I would not rely on non specific information.

Agree - make sure your kitchen cabinets can accommodate your appliances. Warranties are void if they’re not installed correctly. A vent in the oven cabinet had to be cut for my 30’ oven, for example.

Thank you all! I really appreciate the advice you've given me today — and you are helping me narrow this down. I want to make a decision on appliances today, so that I can order the cabinets and doors.

The fridge in the design was a placeholder. The only thing I knew at the time was that it would be 36" wide.

After hearing all your replies I'm leaning toward Liebherr for a few reasons:

1. I had one in a previous home and was very happy with the quality and performance.

2. I like the look of it in all applications — whether freestanding, built-in, or fully integrated.

3. I appreciate the zero clearance hinges.

4. Liebherr (apparently) offers the most cu ft of freezer space compared to other 36-inch models in my research so far. (I'm a weekend batch cooker and will give up fridge for freezer any day) — if anyone has more to add about freezer capacity, I'd love to hear it.

5. I can get a good price on Liebherr or Sub-zero from a supplier that a developer-friend uses often + includes free white glove delivery (this is significant; the fridge will be coming up 6 flights of stairs, as it won't fit in our building's 1946 elevator — and some places charge $50-$100 per flight for that).

Your intel has helped me eliminate fully integrated. Reason: I'm using IKEA boxes, and the U.S. line has no refrigerator boxes. If I wanted fully integrated, to get a cabinet for it I would have to either import an IKEA Method model from the UK or order one custom with the doors I'm getting from Scherr's. Either of these options is a great solution, were I married to integrated. But I like the look of a built-in Liebherr or Sub-zero.

Here's what I have on built-ins fridge / freezer space:

Liebherr freestanding bottom freezer

13.4 cu ft

6 cut ft

Sub-zero bottom freezer

15.9 cu ft

5.2 cut ft

Bosch Benchmark (can't get a deal on this, making it more than the sub-zero)

13.8

5.7

Um, no. Why isn’t your KD answering your questions here? She should be. You are lost at sea.

I have the integrated Sub Zero with the stainless. It’s a lot of stainless to look at. I broke mine up, so they’re facing each other across the kitchen. But never consider paying more for something other than a Sub Zero. I got mine used, and I can legitimately say that a used 10 year old Sub Zero keeps constant temps. That’s what keeps food fresh longer. My old monogram froze food in the fridge. It was just a glorified Profile.

I hired a kitchen designer too, I think what you should do here is work with the designer to achieve the look you want. I have full overlay cabinets, which is a very different look from the ‘farmhouse’ inset cabinets that are so popular right now. Really look at and decide what look you’re going for. Almost all the higher end appliances allow for flush mount or ‘proud’. I chose to mount my Thermador steam oven proud because the cabinet came in for a 24” convection oven and I ended up buying a plate warmer drawer to fill the space. It happens. Everyone in clouding my husband measured and triple checked the plans and still 1 mistake made it through.... oh well, I have a Miele plate warmer now. Lol.

You obviously do not know what you don’t know, and you need a KD.

Important for you to research your project.

http://www.remodeling.hw.net/cost-vs-value/2018/

https://nkba.org/info/why-hire-a-designer

http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/kitchen.design.rules.htm#.WvYPH_9OnYX

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/10-tests-for-you-and-your-contractors-first-meeting-dsvw-vd~5332686?n=90[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/10-tests-for-you-and-your-contractors-first-meeting-dsvw-vd~5332686?n=90)

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/sources.faucets2.htm

https://www.curbed.com/2018/3/7/17087588/home-renovation-unnecessary-mcmansion-hell-wagner

I just had a Sub-zero 36" integrated column fridge and 24" integrated column freezer installed. They sit next to each other, but separate from other cabinets. There was no "cabinet" needed. It was basically clad in panels on the sides and front, with the side panels set/nailed to make a sturdy "cabinet" enclosure. It looks like a freestanding wardrobe. My cabinets are from Wood-mode and that was how they deigned it based on the SZ specs.

My GC did have to brace the side panels while we waited for the fridges as the panels are tall and wanted to bend/warp.

Yes, our cabinets were basically tall panels with a cabinet on top. We also used L- brackets to secure them inside better. But they are cabinets that you have to order. Also, my SZ’s needed an extra anti-tipping device installed.

Bosch Benchmark (can't get a deal on this, making it more than the sub-zero)

Really? Because mine was about $4k less than the comparable SZ.

Here's what I have on built-ins fridge / freezer space:

Liebherr freestanding bottom freezer

Freestanding is not integrated.

We just installed a Fisher Paykel integrated French door/bottom freezer with stainless door panels. No cabinet or side panels are required, just a 36" wide "cavity". Had we added side panels, that would have made the fridge look less integrated. The fridge's door panels have the same thickness as the Ikea doors and open without needing extra space for clearance. Fisher Paykel supplies an alu or steel (not sure) filler strip to bridge the 1/8" gap between it and the surrounding cabinetry. I think the filler is a bit of overkill. Without it, the 1/8" gap looks darkish, just as the gap between our white Ikea doors do too, so me thinks, the filler is not really necessary.

Chispa + Heather, thanks - I just returned from a showroom on my lunch hour and that is what they confirmed for me. The Leibherr can sit between two tall pantries without a "box" if it's properly braced.

Sherri - thanks. Now that I've seen in person how it gets paneled and braced and trimmed, I'm going to go with the panel-ready/integrated Liebherr.

That was the last thing I had to make a decision on; now I'm ready to order my cabinets. Thank you, All! I so appreciate the feedback.

Meanwhile... While I was there I explored cooktop bundles. I love the look of the Thermador "star" cooktop. If I get cooktop + wall oven + microwave, they'll throw in the Thermador dishwasher at a rebate.

I did have my heart set on a Miele dishwasher (had one in our previous home that I *loved*). But Thermador is Bosch-owned and I've read good things about them on these forums, so I'm considering Thermador cooking bundle.

That FP frig is an integrated unit with ice and water thru the door in one model. And stainless steel panels available. Here.

My sister hates her Thermador dishwasher. It's not a Bosch.

Pippa + Dan - I considered the FP, but in person I liked the Liebherr better - plus I had one in my previous home and I loved it. Also the FP has less freezer capacity than the Liebherr.

Cpartist - Really? I may have to spring for the Miele after all. I loved the one I had. Tried and true.

Sophie Wheeler, I appreciate your many year's of experience. This is my fourth kitchen renovation, and I'm not floundering. But thank you anyway for your feedback. I appreciate the effort and your expertise.

Actually my sister had a Sub-Zero for many years with no cabinet at all. It fit into a clamp on the floor so it would not tip but it did not attach to anything anywhere else.

You’re right. My husband informed me that one side of the freezer is actually the drywall and not a cabinet panel, there’s just a face frame with the cabinet box above - rather weird looking cabinet. As long as you install the appliance according to the directions, you’ll be fine. Make sure you have an anti-tipping device installed. That’s a must! They usually come with the appliance. Congrats on the new kitchen - and post photos when you’re done!

Heather, that's how the Leibherr in the showroom was installed. It was braced directly to the drywall on one side. Thanks for the heads up on anti-tipping. Will do.

Hi All, I came back to update this discussion, in case there are others out there with the same question.

A lot of advice given on this particular topic was just wrong.

Our refrigerator is in, and it turns out the answer is definitively NO, you do not need a refrigerator cabinet to install a Liebherr HC2060.

We installed it in the cavity between two IKEA tall pantries. It did NOT even need tall panels on either side.

Photos:

Looks Great!

The new Liebherr HC2060 works the same and also does not require a cabinet - I asked.

Here's our kitchen, finished:

May I ask what pulls you used on the refrigerator? I would love something super minimal like that. The kitchen is gorgeous- beyond gorgeous actually.

Rita, I used Richelieu edge pulls:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Richelieu-Hardware-3-5-32-in-80-mm-Center-to-Center-White-Cabinet-Pull-BP98988030/302630405

Hi, I’m looking to get an integrated fridge freezer for my kitchen. For Fisher & Paykel they seem to show the kitchen door along with the fridge, now could I change the door handles on these? If not , where can I buy an integrated fridge freezer for me to provide the door panels.

Rita,

I am currently working on installing a Liebherr HC1011 into an Ikea kitchen. do you have pictures of the pantries or how the fridge was fastened to them?

Cash1990, Our Liebherr is wider but the integrateds work the same. Ours is flanked on either side by a pantry. It did not need its own cabinet. It slides right in between the two pantries and is topped by an over-the-fridge cabinet.

Jackson Heights NYC White Shaker + Paonazzo Marble · More Info

Our crew had a moment where they thought it needed space behind it to vent, but it didn't. It vents from the front grate under the bottom drawer. Here are some troubleshooting things we ran into: https://renov8or.blogspot.com/2018/12/troubleshooting-liebherr-paneled-refrigerator.html

Good luck!

Basel, I'm sorry that I missed your question, and maybe this is not too late. I have never installed a F&P but I hear it's one of the least complicated. I recall reading some Q&A about it here that was helpful:

LG House - Kitchen · More Info

I seriously considered going with F&P but had room for the Liebherr and it had more interior space. Good luck!

@Renov8or You have offered such helpful information. I am trying to make my decision in the next couple of days about my kitchen package and I am trying to learn what an integrated Fridge is.

I currently have a side by side counter depth fridge with panels to match my cabinets. We can pull it out for repairs easily. I am considering what I think they call the Fish Paykel Ingegrated Fridge that have molding wrapped all around them. Are they able to be slid out. OR will you have to dismantle some molding if a repairman comes.

Hi L New, I'm not sure how the F&P is installed and removed. We went with the Liebherr, which doesn't look like a pain to remove. Because it's installed by sliding it in between two pantries, it can also slide out. First you would have to remove these blocks, which prevent it from moving forward. There are two at the top and two in the center. of the refrigerator section.

There are so many misunderstandings about counter-depth refrigerators. Counter-depth fridges still stick out about 3" from the cabinets, so the doors can open. Unless you look for zero-clearance models. The F&P comes in regular and tall but you get no more interior storage space for your money if you go with the tall. Individual columns are nice and can solve space problems if you need to split them up, but they're still pricey. I wrote about it all here: https://renov8or.blogspot.com/2018/04/the-least-expensive-true-counter-depth.html

Great article @Renov8or. Thank you! I went with the Fisher Paykel this past week. But the 72" I did not need it to look taller. : )

It is so funny I keep finding your houzz post as well as your blog post about the fridge from 2 years ago and still both are the best source of info. This fridge topic is so complex and i am set on this true frameless build in/integrated look you have achieved! congrats.

Thank you for confirming I don't need the cabinet enclosure for the fridge. Your kitchen looks FANTASTIC! and i love the minimalist look. If you don't mind i have a question or two based on your choices and experience.

I am trying to finalize all my choices (or at least the most important ones) before ordering my kitchen cabinets, i also don't have KD so have educated myself real well but still have few things i am trying to nail down on and avoid potential mistakes.

1. I love your choice of fridge finger pulls. that was my original choice but everywhere i read that you need good gripping power to pull the cabinet. what's your take? are you happy with the finger pulls or you would choose differently now?

2. i see your installation is all flush. my kitchen will be similar in the layout , all on one wall, with the center cavity for the gas cooktop and 2 uppers. My fridge however will be right next to the counter. Will add a tall panel to its side as well as filler before the panel on my uppers to live space for hardware. I think you counter is sticking out a bit? I have an option to do a 25" deep tall cabinets or position them an inch off the back wall. What's your opinion on the counter. OK to stick out or better to make the tall cabinets/fridge flush with counter?

3. Last one is on your exhaust hood. I am set on strong CFM power ( either 900 or 1200 CFM with external blower for noise reduction) but my enclosed hood pops out to 24 inches . What is the hood you chose? I love the all same depth look on the uppers ? What height are all your uppers installed that they all are same level to meet the min height of hood requirement.

Thank you for the post and thank you for your help.