most fabricators do not plan to cut anything along the wall side of the countertop other than a fairly straight line - your wall is the problem - you can address getting the wall 'fixed'. There is no way I would want only a 1" overhang over my cabinets - I actually prefer almost 2". Try putting your hand/garbage pail/etc. under that 1" and then scrape scrapes.

The draw back with the electronic templating is that it measures in straight lines and does not adjust for a wavy wall. In order to do this, the templator would need to set points at each indent & outdent of your wall. Even if this did happen, the CNC machine cuts in a straight line, not in waves. There are still old-school guys that template with a full-size paper but those are few & far between. I actually deal with one amazingly enough. He actually hand-grinds the wall edge to adjust for the waves. The problem is that we as consumers are demanding low prices and not willing to pay the custom guy who could do what your asking. This is not a shot at HD or any box-store but trade-wide. Sometimes the lowest price is not always the best option depending on what you're expecting.

With that said, if you have a 3/16" tile, it is probably going to be closer to 5/16"-3/8" by the time you add your thin-set to it & the wall.

As for overhang, I can't speak for all, but I always work on a 1 1/2" overhang, past the cabinet, not the door.

You sound very dissatisfied with, and suspicious of, Home Depot and its subcontractor. Why did you go through HD then, rather than find a counter fabricator yourself that you like? Perhaps do not go ahead, because you are already upset and nothing has been done yet.

What kind of counter is it?

The overhang needs to be 1-1/2". It would also behoove you to have an edge that is curved rather than squared off. Did you specify which edge you want?

1/4 inch gap is acceptable. I would find different tile to cover the gap.

friedajune, I am considering trying to cancel although it is technically too late. I went with Home Depot given a sale on Silestone. I specified eased edges as I am not a fan of curved edges. I am not suspicious of Home Depot...they've been kept in the dark as well; it's their subcontractor that is the problem.

mark_rachel, I was thinking that I may need to do that as well although I planned my kitchen for two (2) years and love the glass subway tile. It's already purchased and wasn't cheap!

A waterjet can cut a scribe to a wall. Not many shops have a 5M piece of machinery in them, because they don’t do the volume to pay the note on it. They just have a 60K bridge saw, which cuts a line.

3/8” tile plus 3/8” mortar, and the gap is not an issue at all.

The tile installation is likely to be though. You can’t have a $250 hack touch it and expect that tile to ever look good. You’ll have to pay to have it floated out. And the corners trued up. Before he buys his $100 glass blade for his wet saw.

Expect to pay $2500-$3500 for the prep work, and the pain of working with glass. Especially if it’s cheap warped glass that is going to need a larger grout line and hand manipulating every piece regardless of spacers. Spacers are more for amateurs when dealing with wavy gravy.

"The draw back with the electronic templating is that it measures in straight lines and does not adjust for a wavy wall."

No, a laser template follows a crooked wall.

You're dealing with Home Cheapo. Their specialty is rock-bottom prices for dirt-simple installs. They're not "kept in the dark" by their subcontractors, they use them to avoid responsibility. Their granite and solid-surface counters can be a bargain, but you have to know what you're doing and read the fine print.

Skil367, in my case, my local store’s staff are getting the run around just as I am. So, yes, their subcontractor is not being forthcoming with details. Blanket assertions don’t apply this go around!

Sophie Wheeler, yes I went with Home Depot for a sale on Silestone; although the “$250 hack” and “cheap tile” don’t apply to my project.

oldryder... Good to know. I was obviously given poor information.

Well then, if the whole wall is being properly floated out for the tile, you don’t have a problem with the counter at all. Tempest in a teapot. Move on to doing that backsplash.

Have a competent drywall person float the back splash wall out before tiling, checking with a long straight edge.
Gap problem solved, and your glass tile job will look better too if it's not wavy...

...typing slower than Sophie ;)