Do the stripping in the garage/porch.

Tape the underside to the edge, cover apron/legs and use the stripper. Follow the stripper instructions to scrape/clean/neutralize.

Lightly hand sand(150 or 220 grit) and clean.

I do not recommend shellac for a large top as a first DIY job. Shellac needs to be fresh and mixing flakes is the best way to get fresh shellac. That is also not DIY easy. It can be DIY, but takes some preordering materials, getting a container(air tight) and about two days for the flakes to dissolve in alcohol.

The best table finish(for ease of applying and ease of any needed repair) is a non poly varnish. Real paint stores and woodworking stores have that in quarts, which will be more than enough for this project.

A smooth surface is fairly easy to get, providing the following requirements are met:

Temperature for application---80-90°

A good man made bristle brush(Purdy or store brand, for example) 2" to 2&1/2" wide.

A small(1" diameter roller(NOT foam). Reasons---the smaller diameter rollers do not absorb air and leave bubbles like larger diameter and the ends are tapered which minimizes roller lines.

Apply with a minimum---MINIMUM---number of strokes or passes. The more the finish is worked, the more problems can occur. The material should cover without lumping or running. Keep a wet edge and blend the subsequent strokes. If using a brush, apply the material with about three strokes(width of the brush) and make the last pass the entire length of the surface. Be careful not to create drips on the beginning area of the strokes(on the edge of the top).

Use a lamp or light so look at the surface to make sure the varnish is applied evenly---light on the far side, look at about a 30° angle across the surface before making the final pass.

From the stickiness,you very well might be correct about it being shellac. You are correct about new shellac melding with old and that denatured alcohol will remove the old finish along with the dirt in it. I would try the alcohol before stripper because it is less likely to effect underlying wood surface. I go along with most of Mac's suggestions but I have better luck with wider brushes. That final stroke Mac talked about is called "tipping off". Hold the brush with just enough grip to avoid dropping it. Relax wrist and drag bursh at about 45*degree angle over surface with the lest down pressure as possible. From reading your comments,I detect that you put thought and effort into your refinishing. For that reason,I offer a little advanced tutorial on clear coating and fine finishing with paint. Much of the roughness in dried finish is dust and lint from surrounding air. Creating a booth with plastic is preferable but there's things you can do that help. Don't sweep or move things about just prior to starting. Don't alow anyone to carry on other activities in the area. Wet down floor and anything else as possible. Vaccum yourself off and/or wear clean non-shedding clothing. You get the idea. A second and little know source of junk dried in finish often come's from the brush. Use compatible solvent to wash even a new brush just before use. Most people do an inadequate job of rinsing brush while cleaning. To see how well you cleaned the brush of clear finish after last use,here's a test for dry brush. Flex bristles against palm of your hand. It should fell soft as you hair after shampooing. If bristles feel or sound like they have a light coat of hair spray,the brush was not completely cleaned after last use and will require much more effort getting dried finish out now than would have been doing it right first time. If that "hair spray"coating is on brush,it will crack off and get in new finish. To add insult to injury,dipping brush in can contaminate's contents so that a perfectly clean brush will transfer the chips from can to project at next use. I hope that help's you in the future.

If it is shellac you can strip with denatured alcohol or methanol. It should come off easily once soft with a scotchbrite pad. That won't raise the grain the way citrustrip does.

Unlike Handy I like oil-based polyurthane varnish for tabletops because of its water and solvent resistance. (The table I'm sitting at now was refinished with it some 40 years ago and has survived thousands of family dinners, homework projects, and all manner of other abuse pretty much unscathed. Arm-R-Seal is also good, easier to apply, though not as tough as poly.

Thanks for all the great tips, everone!

klem1, that point about a clean brush (and cleaning it before using it) makes so much sense. But I don't think I've ever successfully cleaned a paintbrush, then.
It must take hours!

For "compatible" solvent, I want something that will dissolve the finish, right?
But would I want that on the first cleaning of the brush? Will there be enough solvent on the brush to break down the first coat? Or will it be "trace" enough that the finish will overpower it?
Rinsing with water might not work if the water breaks down the finish--right?

Also--can I store the brush and roller air-tight between coats, to keep the finish from drying out on the bristles?


Handymac, you mentioned a brush AND a roller--do I use both, or only one?

It doesn't take hours but does require some effort and time. Even professional painters are unable to do fine finishing with disposable or dirty brushes. This procedure is for oil base clear coat and manmade brushes expected to do the best job possible on repeated use. By compatiable,I mean that which is recommended for thinning finish and/or that will desolve finish without leaving undesiriable elements on brush. That include's naptha,minerial sperits,turpentine and brush cleaner (it does not include gasoline,diesel and kerosene). First rinse in any of those,secound and final rinse in any of those unless finish has begin to dry on bristles. In that case,third rinse in brush cleaner plus a forth in soapy water then a fifth and sixth in clear water.

Air tight wrapper is better than leaving brush exposed while eating lunch or taking calls but not satisfactory for overnight. Many people wrap and refrigerate brushes overnight when working on lesser critical projects (I'm talking about getting best results possible). On a final note,brush cleaner can restore a neglected brush but it isn't necessary for normal cleansing. I insert that advice because many believe it's what we suggest for all cleaning,is too expensive so don't try and properly clean their brush. I hope I answered your questions.

Water based finishes/paint brush cleaning is simply a lot of soap(Dawn) and water and repeated cleanings(at least two, three is better).

Back when I used oil based finishes, my brush cleaning process had three steps(still does, just don't use oil based as much).

Had three containers of thinner. Third, second and first(new) use. After using new the first time(final cleaning), the thinner was poured into the second use container. After using second use(to flush almost all the finish out of a brush), it got poured into the third use container. Over time I had several third use containers which actually might have thinner with more than three uses, but sat long enough for the solids to particulate out and be usable thinner for initial cleanings.

Step one was rinsing in third use paint thinner. It had been used three(or more) times, but would still rinse 50% of the finish out of a brush.

Would then wash the brush in second use thinner, which flushed all but a small amount of finish out. Took less amount than the third use amount. That thinner then got poured into third use containers.

Then new thinner, an even smaller amount. That got poured into second use containers.

Then a wash and scrub with Dawn liquid dish detergent and sling as dry as possible and hung to dry. I have Purdy brushes that are over 20 years old and as good as new. There are other tips and practices to keep brushes looking and working like new, but the cleaning is the most important.

Now, that procedure is not one for occasional DIY projects, A double cleaning with new thinner and the Dawn would be sufficient. My process saved me a lot of money over time.

As far as using both brush and roller---not for table tops. One or the other, application process, minimal strokes and tipping off is still the same.

I have put brushes in the freezer(wrapped in Saran wrap overnight, but not when using varnish, shellac, or lacquer.

so for a big tabletop, i'm thinking a roller would just be more efficient--you pour the finish in a tray as if it were paint, right? And don't get it too drippy?

The small diameter roller and a minimum of strokes will do just fine. In fact, while being very careful about drips on the edges, just pour a little finish on the top and spread. That eliminates getting air bubbles from rolling in a pan. Go slow, make long strokes(as long as possible), and lift the roller at the end of each stroke.