I know a couple of people who have all their small appliances in their walk-in pantry. They appear to like it. I would not. To me, a pantry is a place to store less used cookware and lots of non-perishable stables, plus paper goods.

This might help,

http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/kitchen.pantry.htm

Also, try searching the Kitchen forum for "pantry planning", which turns up these various threads,

https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/kitchbath/query/pantry-planning/nqrw

A couple of mods:

We lift our first shelf off the floor approx. 4" with a toe kick.

The end wall or the left wall could be as deep as 24" shelves, at least up to counter level for larger objects.

This pantry will hold more than many kitchens without pantries.

Well...I guess the first place to start for an answer to your question is...what do you plan to use your pantry for?

You have plenty of room to do most anything. You can have deep shelves; you can have narrow shelves. You can have lots of things. Do you know what you really want to do?

Things I use daily (toaster, coffee, etc), on the countertop. Things I use occasionally (waffle iron), in a cabinet. Things I rarely use (hand mixer) in the pantry.

Hi Becky.....Lucky you....8x8 is a great pantry space.

We just finished our new build and we have a 14x12 scullery/pantry. These pics and some of the measurements might help you with thinking through your pantry layout.

I too wanted a space to have all my small appliances set up and ready to go. I decided to make the counters that house them a little deeper than the normal countertop which would give me more workspace in font of the machines. The counters are 28 1/2” deep (normal is 24”). I also wanted to be able to access and use my tallest appliances without having to slide them forward, so the height from countertop to bottom of the upper cabinet (you would have shelving instead of cabinets I assume) is 22 1/4” (normal is 18”). This gives me ample room above all the appliances. I also lowered my countertop by 1 inch (normal from the floor to top of counter is 36”....I made mine 35”.....I am on the short side and lowering them enabled me to see to the bottom of my electric pressure cooker and other pots/appliances I might be using. Even with the extra height, I still didn’t feel comfortable using a toaster under the cabinets, so I have mine set up so there is nothing above it and also with enough space between it and the wall.

All my shelving is adjustable (highly suggest this). It was WAY too difficult to decide before hand on the exact spacing fixed shelving should have (I ended up moving them around several times anyway to get things just right). Bottom shelf is 4” off the floor and all shelving is 12” deep (upper cabinets are 12 1/2” deep which I assume is standard).

I have one very narrow shelf (which I love) that holds single cans. Depending on your needs, behind your pantry door could be a perfect place for something like this (the actual shelves are 3” deep). My builder AND the cabinet guy tried to talk me out of this (told me the shelves would be useless....they were completely wrong!). This narrow shelving would also be a great space for spices.

My ceilings are 10 feet btw and from ceiling to the top of the crown where you see baskets stacked etc is 2 feet. I had them put an actual shelf up there on top of the crown (normally there would be a large drop/depression on the top of the cabinetry).

I would make sure your electrical can pull several machines operating at one time without tripping a breaker. I had to make sure that my electricians understood I wanted to be able to use lots of them simultaneously. While we were building we were in a rental and I couldn’t use the toaster the same time as the electrical grill....breaker always tripped.

If you can swing it, a water source would be a great asset...even just a tiny prep sink.

We also have a dedicated shelf for a countertop microwave (another handy item). I made sure I had the EXACT measurements of the oven to give to the cabinet guy.

I also planned a space for my trash can (which as you can see from the pic needs emptying :) ).

We also added under cabinet lighting.

Just to give you some perspective, from the center of the sink to the wall on the right is 8 feet, and from the end of the fridge to the left wall is 8 feet (and from the wall on the right with the shelving to the end of the toaster is also 8 feet).

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

6 - Misc · More Info

Oh Becky....you have no idea! Complete brain drain....I’m glad it’s over!

In my walkin pantry I put my bottom shelves high enough to be able to put packs of paper towels and toilet paper on the floor under them. I made sure there was enough room between the shelves where I was putting my kitchen aid mixer, blender etc.. My husband made long wooden "steps" for the shelves where the canned goods go so the ones in back sit higher and are not hidden by the ones in front of them. Painted them white and they blend in with the wooden shelves. Great idea he came up with.

Pantry thread:

• http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/gal0214583516468.html

Following

The pantry in our last home was about the size of your, minus the entrance area. I had our trim carpenter build a table on the left wall, similar to a garden work bench. Had microwave, blender and toaster on counter, and room to place a plate or grocery bags/unload. Underneath was kept open (with a lower/full shelf) for baskets (water, drinks). Shelves above this and on back wall were only as deep as a cereal box. Right wall was deeper (and built around HVAC return) than it appears in photos. If the next person needed more room, they can easily add more shelves to back wall and below counter.

These photos are from when we first moved in that house, 13yrs ago. I added more baskets. Since I couldn't reach, and didn't need top shelves, I displayed my birdhouses there. While the glass jars were pretty, they were not practical, so they were replaced later.

Given the age of this post, you've probably already designed your pantry. Assuming you will have shelves all the way up the walls. I've found it handy to have a place in my pantry for a lightweight folding stepstool that isn't blocking any of my shelves.

I'm following too!

"Ceiling in pantry is 10'."

Have a 24" walkway so you can use the shelves as a ladder with treads on opposite walls.

I've received so many great ideas for our pantry design dilemma so thought I'd share photos of the progress so far. Brackets will be added after shelves are painted. Back wall is same 8' length as wall on right side by entrance to pantry. So grateful for everyone's help.

Your bottom shelf should be 1 inch higher than the tallest item you wish to store there for easy removal.

The shelves going up and around on three sides should only be two of your tallest tins

high and two tins deep with an 1/2-1 inch clearance above. This is so you can see at a glance what you have and utilise the space economically, so as to store as much as possible.

Any shelves that you do need to be deeper and have more head space for things like food mixers etc, have no higher than waist hight, so as to not block out any lighting you may have on the ceiling.

Your top shelf may be higher, so as to store things only used at certain times of the year. Jam making equipment, jam jars, spare kilner jars, Christmas items.

I hope this has been of some use to you.

It's how I am having mine built.

It's also how my grandmother's pantry was made under the stairs. She was born in 1892 so, very traditional and I loved the smells in it and remember them to this day.

Di Farr.

I am suspicious of commenters that like their own comment on an old post.