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Indoor winter conditions for Meyer

7 years ago

Hello,

i recently boutgh Citrus Meyer want to get ready for winter season.

I live in hardiness zone 5-6 in a flat with central heating can`t control it mostly temps at winter are 70F to 77F, Window facing east side, at winter no sun there. I have T5 2x45W lightng. I know Meyer need lower temps in winter.

Last year i had Citrus Limequat and it died, i predict due high temperatures and low lighting.

Are there any way to adapt Meyer to currient conditions? Maybe by ading more light than 11-12 per day?

Thanks in advance

Comments (16)

  • 7 years ago

    get a clip light with fluorescent that gives of heat at rootsock to of soil keep soil as warm if not warmer than upper air

    clip3 thanked bklyn citrus (zone 7B)
  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    If you can’t control your temps and you know your limequat died from the lower light, I’d say your only option is to get a stronger light. 70-77F is a good range to have indoors if your tree got alot of window sunlight. You’ll need to make up for the lack of sunlight intensity since your window doesn’t get any. Go for a fluorescent/CFL or LED to save on your electricity bill

    clip3 thanked kvetchlambkin (nyc 7b)
  • 7 years ago

    Are you sure it died from low light? Did you examine roots post mortem? Any pics of setup?

    clip3 thanked bklyn citrus (zone 7B)
  • 7 years ago

    Sorry for long delay

    Yea my limequat died i guess from high temeperatures because we were heating extra last winer.

    I this picture is my set with t5 lighting i will try to explain everything.

    This set is placed in the middle of the room, because near windows are radiators they are hot during cold winter, and to open windows to ventilate room so cold air couldn`t reach plants.

    My windows are east side, from november no sun comes directly to my windows i have luminometer and for example near window plant could get 400 lux during day and at currient position maybe 150 lux.

    Current day lenght is 9:14 and additionally now i turn on t5 light with 30.000 lux or more for 2 hours so total 11 hour. While day lenght decreasing i increase lamp working time to maintain about 11 hours of day lenght.

    I think i mentioned everything i really want to grow this meyer right maybe i`m not doing something right or somewhere i might improve please tell me

    Thanks in advance.

  • 7 years ago

    You need 2 spot light aimed at bases, start at current day of 9 to 10 hrs length upper, base lights one hour earlier to heat roots, then lengthen to create spring effect


  • 7 years ago

    I don`t understand why i need spot light if i have my powerful t5 lamp 2x39w with 2800 lumens. And does i need to keep turned on for 9 hours?

  • 7 years ago

    because your roots are colder than your leaves, which causes leaf drop. lower spot lights work by creating heat directed it warming the roots/drying the top of soil, by turning them on an hour earlier they already awake stimulated and working to accommodate the leaves when the upper lights come on an hour later. as far as 9 hours total daylight artificially created, when i brought my plants in i looked up my local day length which was 12 hours at that time - about September 30th, and matched that for a starting point of light total daylight, i was only guessing for you now. the idea being match what they had ........i'm only just now after about 6 weeks extended my overall day by an hour to 13 and started warming the roots for 2 hours before upper lights come on - my winter was whatever i want it to be here in phony citrus land.......artificial citrus spring has started with the extra hour, there is no reason why you couldn't actually get those plants to grow during winter

  • 7 years ago

    i would also raise the plants or lower the upper light to about 6 inches above top of plant, just a suggestion

  • 7 years ago

    Instead of spotlight aimed at the pot, I would use a heat mat used for starting seeds.

  • 7 years ago

    light 16 hours per day

    New Zealand lemonade no window under 3 lights.


    near south window each tree gets 1 light each.

    I run my house at 65 F and I turn the furnace off at bed time and turn it on upon getting up the next morning. Mulching the dirt slows down evaporative cooling considerably. My house never drops below 58 F by morning.

    Steve

  • 7 years ago

    heat mats are another good option, i have mine on standby until it gets colder, they should be run off a thermostatically controlled soil probe, on a breaker power strip and monitored........don't burn the house down

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Thanks bklyn citrus! I’ve def seen positive results from other ppl using heat mats but I’m trying to find the most simple and convenient way of getting them through winter without too much trouble. So far the Meyer is doing exactly what I hoped. The other two are prob mad that I haven’t properly watered them in almost a month

  • 7 years ago

    if your not watering in a month, your nor growing your care taking

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I’ve put my trees in windows receiving lower light levels because I’m intentionally aiming for care taking :) Growing requires grow lights/alot of shop lights and alot of extra space and equipment to receive the lighting efficiently. I’m trying to avoid that so I prefer to keep them stalled. I don’t mind if they’re at status quo all winter

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