Do a YouTube search for info on the poor washing capability of the 2018 SQ top loader. If you can find a 2017 non digital grab it.

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/need-a-washer-and-dryer-this-month-sales-advice-please-dsvw-vd~5535393?n=37[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/need-a-washer-and-dryer-this-month-sales-advice-please-dsvw-vd~5535393?n=37)

You can check Consumer Reports (https://www.consumerreports.org/join) for ratings and recommendations. All Speed Queen washers were the worst performers among all washers tested. The Maytag MDWB766FW did okay but slightly worse than cheaper Maytag models. Agitator washers performed worse than "HE" (non-agitator) top-loaders which, in turn, performed worse than front-loaders. The best top-loader was the LG WT7100CW.

"Lizbeth-Gardener: I like that SQ has manual controls, ..."

SQ's "manual" controls are rotary selectors to set the computer board that's in the panel. No current (2018) SQ models have an old-style mechanical timer.

For the same price as the Maytag 766, you may want to look at the 757. It also has a 5 year warranty, but is made better with commercial parts.

Both Maytag washers have the same 5-year warranty. It appears that all* Maytag top-load washers have the same warranty. Unfortunately, clicking on the Warranty links on the Maytag website often brings up warranty pages in Spanish.

*Correction: Many (check website)

No, not all Maytag top loaders have the same 5 year parts and labor warranty. Only the 575 and the 766. The 766 and 765 are the same exact residential unit, only that the 766 comes with a 5 year warranty and the 765 has the regular 1 year. The 575 is a commercial buit unit with better quality parts than their regular residential washers. It also has the 5 year warranty.

I'm just saying that between the 575 and 766, for the same price, I'd go with the 575.

Thanks for all the responses; lots of good information. We went to look at the different washers yesterday and are now leaning toward the LG WT7100CW.

You are aware the LGs don't have an agitator and use almost no water? Look at videos of the WT7200.

The Federal government has been maniacal about appliance energy reduction so all new washers use less water and electricity than before. The water in my new compact, no-agitator, top-loader barely covers the clothes. Dat's how day be deez days.

Washing machines and dishwashers only need 1 mode/cycle to be Energy Star and to meet EPA Gov Regulations. The GE top loads and Maytag top loads "normal" setting is the cycle that meets the Gov Regulations. But the Deep Fill modes are still there to allow for extra water is the user wants it. If you watch the videos of the Maytag MVWP575, the Normal mode fills the tub with about 1/3 water, but the Bulky, Towels, Delicates modes will fully fill the tub with water. The GE 680/685/750/755 have a Deep Fill button. If you pess and hold it for 3 seconds, it will beep and fill the tub with water.

With my 12 year old GE Profile top load, I like to do full loads, and it has 4 water settings Small, Medium, Large, Super. I use Super or Large most of th time. But if I happen to do a smaller load, then would choose Small or Medium fill. It's nice to be able to set the water level myself.

"It's nice to be able to set the water level myself."

Then don't buy a new washing machine and hope the old one doesn't break.

Well, if you read my posts on another thread, you'll see that my washers transmission is going bad. It's a $300 part, plus labor, would be around $500. I can't see sinking that much on a 12 year old unit....when maybe the motor will go out next year.

I've been researching washing machines for 2 months now, and would replace mine with either the Maytag Commercial 575 or the GE 685/755.

What brand/model is your current machine?

Maybe the motor won't go out, and you'd have a machine that makes you happy vs. the "new stuff."

I recently refurbished a 1999 Kenmore toploader with new tub support/centerpost/bearings, spin drive (clutch and brake). Opened the transmission to change the neutral drain parts which worn/malfunctioning, agitator shaft (so the bearings have a new surface to mate), and fresh oil. $280 parts, no labor cost for DIY. It's for sale, come to TX and fetch it.

dadoes,

My washer is the GE Profile model WPRB8050D1CC.

Parts list:

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/WPRB8050D1CC

The only I had earlier this year was the tub was overfilling with water and getting on the floor. I had to replace the water pressure house that goes from the bottom of the tub to the sensor, and replaced the sensor. It was $120 for the parts.

But I'm really not able to take apart the entire unit to replace a transmission and whatever else "might" need replaced to re-build it.